As some of you may have found out the hard way the dizzy on a 4AGZE will run into a small problem. Its oil seals eventually harden and fail and it leaks oil. It has drain holes in its body which are designed to ensure that it doesn't crap out if this occurs. Smart design. Problem on the 4AGZE (as opposed to the earlier 4AGE) is that because of the supercharger's position, the alternator is now swapped to the other side of the motor and therefore situated directly below the leaky dizzy. Not so good eh...
If the dizzy leaks for long enough the alternator will die. Been there done that...
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Anyway I finally got hold of a couple of dizzy rebuild kits from Twos R US, and enough time to do something with them.
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I thought perhaps I'd document what I did in case it helps anyone else with a leaky dizzy on their 4AG. I don't have a press or things like that, just basic tools and Kiwi ingenuity so hopefully the methods described will help someone out one day. Anyway, first dizzy took me ages and I actually stuffed it in the process (I'll explain later) while the 2nd and 3rd ones took only an hour or two each. Here goes then...
I pulled the thing out and you can see in this photo how oily it was. I used masking tape and a pen to label each HT wire to make it a no-brainer when putting them back on later.
Be real careful removing and handling the thin plastic cover that goes under the rotor and over the electronics. It can break real easy.
OK now before you start ripping it to bits you might want to make a note of how it goes back together. There's a wee dimple in the body of the dizzy near the drive gear, and a coressponding dimple in the drive gear itself. Line the two up and then take note of where the rotor thingy is pointing. Some dizzies have different looking internals but this is how mine looked. The wee flat face on the shaft for the rotor was facing left when the marks were aligned. (Remember the top of the dizzy has the HT lead comb eh). If you put it back together the wrong way around it'll misfire because your timing will be 180 degrees out. (yeah it's been done).
OK so you need to remove the drive gear. Do NOT simply try to drift it out cos it's a solid metal pin but the hole it goes through is flared either side of the shaft. So the pin is flared either end, thinner in the middle than what's looking at you. In the BGB it says to grind one side of the gear off so you can then drift the pin out (cos you'd have also ground away one flared end of the pin). But most of us non-Toyota service folk don't have a spare drive gear floating around so we don't want to destroy it eh?
I put the thing in the vice then used a dot punch to make a weeny indent in the centre of the pin - or as close to the centre as I could get it. I then drilled out the centre of the pin. Now bear in mind the pin is flared, so I'd suggest you NOT drill it out to the size of the pin as seen when you're looking at it, else the replacement spring-pin thingy might not be a tight enough fit... Anyway I drilled the pin out a bit, then used a smallish pin-punch to drift what was left of it outta the gear. I didn't want to bend the shaft so I set the gear on a bit of wood on the bench when drifting out the pin. Up to you how you do it... Just don't bend the shaft!
A 3.5mm drill was as big as I went.
I'd have used a straight pin punch instead of a tapered one if I'd had one thin enough. Had to grab the exposed end of the pin in the vice to finish removing it as a result of using a tapered punch, but hey no worries.
I found the drive gear was a bit stuck and as I don't have a press or even a G-clamp big and grunty enough I had to drift it out a bit arduously using a handbrake pin as a drift. A bit nuts but it worked.
Now you need to remove the electronics without hurting them. And I DO stress that last bit!
If the screws are too tight don't risk munting the centre of them with a Philips screwdriver or you'll never get them out. To crack them off you could use an impact driver though that can go horribly wrong too considering you're clobbering something with a hammer. I like using a flat-bladed screwdriver with a square shank, and a crescent spanner, to crack them off, then a Philips to finish.
Anyway here's the first two screws to remove:
Then you can grab a hold of that whole arrangement and carefully pull it off including the rubber thing with wires through it:
You'll find there's another electronic widget underneath that needs to come out too. Same deal eh.
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OK now you need to remove the shaft. It's held in by two wee clamp things and their screws. The screws are real tight so I used the screwdriver and crescent method to crack them off (push firmly in on the end of the screwdriver so it can't ride up in the slots of the screws eh).
Now you might want to measure the position of the bearing on the shaft before you go removing it. Mine were 79.5mm to 80mm from the end of the shaft to the face of the bearing.
Like I said I don't have a press so I used a flat piece of steel in the vice to serve as a brace so I could drift the bearing off the shaft. Turn the shaft a half turn each hit so you have less risk of bending it. Worked fine for me.
If it gets stuck right at the end you can use a crescent in the vice as a brace, prop the shaft up with a rag and use a pin-punch or dot punch to drift the last bit of the shaft out of the bearing. Note how I have put the spanner in the vice in such a way that I won't bust it...
I cleaned the varnish deposits off the shaft gently using 1200 grit wet and dry paper. Don't overdo it or it'll get to be a sloppy fitting shaft which would then cause problems.
I used a long 14mm tube socket, and a washer or two, to drift the new bearing back on to the correct place on the shaft as per my caliper measurement. A nylon bread board works a treat as a munt-proof surface for hammering things on too... You'll notice the wee groove cut into the shaft by the old hardened seal. Like I said just very gently smooth things a bit with some very fine wet and dry. Don't try to remove the groove, it's not necessary I reckon as long as the new seal can er, seal.
OK time to clean up the body of the dizzy. Use a pin punch to knock the old seal out of the dizzy body. Be careful not to munt the sides of the recess where the seal sits cos that's a surface that needs to seal against the seal.
There's a big o-ring around the dizzy where the cap seats and another around its neck where it fits into the head. Rip 'em off and biff 'em.
I used some brake cleaning fluid in an aerosol can to clean up the dizzy body. NOTE: do NOT use that stuff to clean the electronics. And do NOT use compressed air to clean the electronics either. I found that brake cleaner dissolved the glue holding the wee stator caps on and compressed air then blew the cap off and threw a million wee coils of hair-thin wire out of their holder. FAIL...
I used a toothpick, magnifying glass and nail varnish to put it back together but it can just go back in the parts bin for now. Good job I had another spare dizzy.
Hint: clean the electronic bits up carefully with maybe just a rag.
Anyway after cleaning up the dizzy body you can drift in a new seal using a socket. I gently kept going until it was all the way home in its recess to ensure it was sitting flat and not at an angle.
Insert the shaft and use a block of wood if you need to, to tap it down into place with the new bearing seated in its recess. Then fit and tighten the two clamp things that secure the bearing. BE SURE to lubricate seals, shaft etc before reassembling.
Then fit the bottom electronic widget. Now it's essential you set it up right again. When I measured mine before pulling them off there was a 0.2mm or 8 thou of an inch (0.008 inch) clearance between the wee metal sensor thing in the stator and the wee fin things on the shaft. So I set them up like that when reassembling. I'm told you can use a piece of typical A4 or Letter printer paper and it'd be about the correct thickness. Anyway be sure to set up each of the three sensor thingumees to the right gap so they work ok. Just crack off the screws holding them and use a smallish flat blade screwdriver in the wee slot things to move them to the correct gap. The upper pair of sensor things are set to a gap with the single pointy-outy bit on the shaft.
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Refit the drive gear - refer to the pics earlier regards orientation if needs be. I drifted the new split pin thing in a wee bit first by holding it in needle nose pliers with the gear on a block of wood, then pressed it home in the vice.
OK, refit the o-rings, electronics cover, rotor, cap and heat shield.
Now when you refit the dizzy, it's BGB time. In a nutshell:
Turn the engine until the timing mark shows TDC. Check you are on the correct stroke by removing the oild filler cap and looking at the camshaft. The wee dimple should be looking at you, lined up with the edge of the rocker cover. If it's not, rotate the crank 360 degrees until the TDC mark's there again. The camshaft dimple should be visible...
Align the dimple marks on the dizzy body's neck, and the drive gear. Hold the dizzy so the HT lead comb thing is up. Insert the dizzy. Bolt it up gently so the two bolts are at about the mid position in their slots. This will put the ignition timing just about perfect.
Start the car, let it warm up, then bridge the two wee terminals in the check gizmo (paperclip works fine). Timing oughtta be 10 degrees. Now remove the paperclip and you should find that on an auto SC AW the timing is about 12 or 14 degrees, on a manual it oughtta be at least 16 degrees.
Tighten the two dizzy bolts and go thrash the heck outta your car to ensure all's well.
OK that's about it folks. Hope this helps someone. Feel free to comment but please bear in mind I have a lot on so if you ask a question someone else may need to answer it... 2am I'm going to go crash. Cheers.
