Trying to get rid of my alarm but I've found 50,000 wires

[ClanFever]

Hey all. Trying to get rid of my alarm. I don't know a whole lot, but I found the siren in the engine bay, I found a little plastic packet with fuses, and then between the little plastic packet and the big black box, I found sheeploads of wires, some with fuses hanging off, and they all seem to go into different random places. How do I fully get rid of my alarm? Should I follow the wires until I find where they have been spliced into other wires, then remove? I don't want to be cutting important wires. Any advice would be great. Even if you tell me to leave it all alone and get an electrician in to give me a hand. I have one on mates rates so that won't be a problem, but I'd prefer to DIY first! Cheers

[*84vvt]

KEEP IT

[Grrrrrrr!]

Unless the alarm is causing issues leave it there. You'll lose such a small amount of weight and run the risk of ending up with dodgy electrics if you cut/pull the wrong bits.

[Logan]

Different alarms have different systems, they will all have the siren, a number of inline fuses a control box and an LED to signal when its active, the rest of the wires are usually various sensor wires that tell the alarm that a door/boot/bonnet/engine lid has been opened.
Its fairly easy to unbolt the siren and LED and track these wires back to the box to remove this section. From the box youll need to trace back to where it is T-ed into the loom going into the ignition. Immobilizers are connected by cutting certain wires, then the alarm essentially reconnects these inside the box once it has been deactivated. You need to peel back all the tape and find the matching colours from the original loom, cut the alarm wires off and reconnect these. Once all these are done, you shouldnt need to worry about the other wires going through the car, just cut them and tape them up(just in case they are linked to central locking/anything else that could have a power feed).

Basically just trace all the alarm wires back to the original loom, remove if they are T-ed or reconnect if they have been cut.

[ClanFever]

Different alarms have different systems, they will all have the siren, a number of inline fuses a control box and an LED to signal when its active, the rest of the wires are usually various sensor wires that tell the alarm that a door/boot/bonnet/engine lid has been opened.
Its fairly easy to unbolt the siren and LED and track these wires back to the box to remove this section. From the box youll need to trace back to where it is T-ed into the loom going into the ignition. Immobilizers are connected by cutting certain wires, then the alarm essentially reconnects these inside the box once it has been deactivated. You need to peel back all the tape and find the matching colours from the original loom, cut the alarm wires off and reconnect these. Once all these are done, you shouldnt need to worry about the other wires going through the car, just cut them and tape them up(just in case they are linked to central locking/anything else that could have a power feed).

Basically just trace all the alarm wires back to the original loom, remove if they are T-ed or reconnect if they have been cut.

Yeap that's basically what I've been doing. I've found wires that go up into no where and just ground, and I've found some that go to dead ends. But a few go and T, so I'll going to cut just before the T then electric tape the ends. Cheers!

[Logan]

Its a fairly easy procedure once you get your head around it, it just looks daunting!

[JasonFriday13]

When I removed the alarm wiring (no alarm unit) from my scrapped turbo car, the car wouldn't start. I had to reconnect the start wire that used to go to the immobiliser. That's the only part that tripped me up, keep this in mind if you've removed an immobiliser.

[ClanFever]

When I removed the alarm wiring (no alarm unit) from my scrapped turbo car, the car wouldn't start. I had to reconnect the start wire that used to go to the immobiliser. That's the only part that tripped me up, keep this in mind if you've removed an immobiliser.

What does the immobilser look like? I have a siren, black box, little motherboard in a plastic box and this weird looking black box with 4 lights on it.

[JasonFriday13]

Not sure, on some alarms it's separate, on others its in the alarm box itself. What I was pointing out is that the red wire from the ignition barrel may need to be joined up again if its been cut (so that the engine will crank).

[frankv]

Yeap that's basically what I've been doing. I've found wires that go up into no where and just ground, and I've found some that go to dead ends. But a few go and T, so I'll going to cut just before the T then electric tape the ends. Cheers!

Your alarm will probably disconnect the start switch from the starter solenoid. Depending on how complex your alarm is, it may also disconnect other stuff (fuel pump?)? It may also connect to your central locking if there's a remote. If there's a remote, it will have a wire hanging out of it, not connected to anything, that is the aerial. Possibly there will be a wire connected to the door switch. There should also be a wire connected to the battery via a fuse, and one to ground. Either or both could be wired via the loom.

Quite probably two (or more!) of the wires that tee will need to be connected together, or your car won't start, so don't cut them all short at the tee. Connect the wrong wires together and you could destroy your battery and/or set fire to your car. Any fiddling with wiring should be done with at least the positive battery terminal disconnected.

If I was you, I'd try to find a wiring diagram for your alarm before cutting wires and/or joining wires. It will make it much easier to ensure that the right wires are re-connected. Google for your alarm's name and any code letters.

Why do you want to remove it? You should be able to just remove the siren without affecting anything else.

[ClanFever]

The siren was already disconnected, I don't like the one I had, if you didn't turn it over within 30 seconds of unlocking the car, it'd switch off and you'd have to hit the button to reset it, and if you happened to hit the starter motor on 30 seconds which I did a few times, it'd seem to short the whole cars circuit and you'd have to disconnect and reconnect the battery. What a faf. It's just my track day car, I want to jump in it and go! And thanks for all that advice, next time I'm with it I'm gonna get in there and find what wire has been redirected.

[ClanFever]

I found an orange and red wires that had been split and sent off down to the alarm, I reconnected these correctly, but the car still won't turn over. I've traced back all the wires, but they're all just t'ed so they're not going to do anything. There are a few wires that go off and get ground, and there's nothing else I can see. Any more ideas before I get the electrician in?

[*84vvt]

You should have this already down load the BGB (Big Green Book ) and sort through the electric diagrams.

http://manual.teq.org/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Have fun Hope you have a multimeter in your kit of tools

[ClanFever]

You should have this already down load the BGB (Big Green Book ) and sort through the electric diagrams.

http://manual.teq.org/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Have fun Hope you have a multimeter in your kit of tools

Have the technical but not the electrical. I'll get the ignition printed out but I'm going to get the electrician in, I don't want to stuff it more then I have! I try stuff but if it doesn't work I'd prefer to get someone in then get it to a point of never going to be driven again!

[Logan]

As far as the ignition goes: Black-Red and White should be power feed in. Blue-Red is Acc, Black-Orange, Black-Yellow should be ignition position feed out, Red should be start position feed out. If the car is not turning over there is something wrong with the starter circuit so check theres power on the main power feed at the starter first and foremost (should be a direct link to the battery), check fuses and check you are getting the power feeds out from the ignition with a test light. If all this is correct, check the starter relay (and maybe c/o relay) is functioning properly.