Hard to get into gear/Clutch won't fully disengage

[GlanzaAtHeart]

Hi team,

Having an issue with my clutch - I'm finding it hard to get into gear, as if the clutch won't fully disengage.

I have recently (about a month ago) changed to a single port slave cylinder. This is bled, with the clevis on the pedal pretty much maxed out in terms of distance. I've also replaced the pin that attaches the clevis to the pedal, and the rubber bush.

I have only found this issue after doing some hard 2nd to 3rd pulls (aggressive on the clutch to be fair), and now it's happening all the time. It was fine for ~ 3 weeks after I installed the slave.

What would cause this? i've rebled the clutch again, do I need an extended slave pushrod? It's an OEM clutch, nothing fancy.

[GDII]

Did you adjust the length of the master rod?

Getting the extended slave rod will help. I'm going to get one made so I don't get this issue when I do my swap.

[GlanzaAtHeart]

Did you adjust the length of the master rod?

Getting the extended slave rod will help. I'm going to get one made so I don't get this issue when I do my swap.

I adjusted the clevis off the master rod yes. It's maxed out within it's limits.

Yeah I guess the only real option is the extended slave rod. Just curious why I didn't have the issue immediately.

[mknz]

I've been through this shit on my SW too. An extended slave rod won't work, they're hard af to install if you've bled with a regular length, and if you bleed with one the rest point of the slave just ends up further back. An extended pushrod won't solve the actual issue which is a lack of travel in the clutch system.

You've probably made it harder for yourself with a single hole slave cylinder, the reason for the two holes is that the slave is higher than the bleed point. IMO change back or do a combination of bench and hanging (pulmbed to car, but not on the box) bleeding

To fix it,
1. Reset the clevis so the pedal is pulling the piston out of the master cylinder as much as possible. You'll know the limit when the pedal starts lowering, then extend the rod just a little so the pedal doesn't pull the piston against the stop in the master cylinder
2. Check all hydraulic connections, make sure they're as TIGHT as when you cracked them
3. Clean the bleed nipple and hole threads of any dirt with an old toothbrush
4. Use a pressure bleeder or get two mates round to bleed it real proper. I haven't had luck with the latter. In either case be quick with that bleed nipple to prevent air getting back in

[GlanzaAtHeart]

I've been through this shit on my SW too. An extended slave rod won't work, they're hard af to install if you've bled with a regular length, and if you bleed with one the rest point of the slave just ends up further back. An extended pushrod won't solve the actual issue which is a lack of travel in the clutch system.

You've probably made it harder for yourself with a single hole slave cylinder, the reason for the two holes is that the slave is higher than the bleed point. IMO change back or do a combination of bench and hanging (pulmbed to car, but not on the box) bleeding

To fix it,
1. Reset the clevis so the pedal is pulling the piston out of the master cylinder as much as possible. You'll know the limit when the pedal starts lowering, then extend the rod just a little so the pedal doesn't pull the piston against the stop in the master cylinder
2. Check all hydraulic connections, make sure they're as TIGHT as when you cracked them
3. Clean the bleed nipple and hole threads of any dirt with an old toothbrush
4. Use a pressure bleeder or get two mates round to bleed it real proper. I haven't had luck with the latter. In either case be quick with that bleed nipple to prevent air getting back in

Unfortunately, I've done all of these 4, twice. I'm picking up a longer clutch slave rod this evening and will update tomorrow if it makes a difference.

[GlanzaAtHeart]

Okay an update - Better but not solved. Furstrating

Got an extended slave rod, did a full 2 person bleed for about 20 minutes, no air at all, yet still has issues.

I can't seem to isolate the conditions, I did a hard launch, all the way up to 4th and it was fine, slowed down, no issues, super smooth, felt like butter.

2 streets later of normal driving it wouldn't select 2nd after cruising in 3rd. Sometimes 1st is hard to grab. Sometimes 3rd, 4th, and 5th are hard to grab. Clutch in and out a couple times and i can get it into gear.

Would anyone know the issue?

[GDII]

Condition of the master cylinder?

[GlanzaAtHeart]

Condition of the master cylinder?

Was new when I built the car in early 2021 from Rock Auto. Could be a problem though

[mknz]

Unfortunately, I've done all of these 4, twice.

Yup, it took 7 or 8 times. People in the UK and US FB groups have posted the same struggle

[GlanzaAtHeart]

Well, I'm starting to suspect the box maybe the cuplrit here.

I noticed the nipple that comes with the TCS single port slave was munched, it's super soft, highly reccomend replacing it. I used a brake bleed screw from a MR-S caliper, much stronger and didn't strip at all.

Bled it both by hand, and with a vacuum bleeder. Feels great clutch wise, no air.

However, I'm still facing issues getting into gear sometimes, even with the car off. With the car off, it won't be clutch related, so that leads me to either the cables, or the gearbox itself having issues. I've done the spherical bushing on the cables.

I've started getting a lot more diff whine I noticed as of yesterday as well. Would this lead to more serious gearbox problems?

[GlanzaAtHeart]

Okay, after more and more troubleshooting, what I've done:

- Bled the clutch about 10 times, manually with 2 people, and a vacuum bleeder. It's bled.
- Replaced ALL external clutch and gearbox systems. I've refreshed all shifter bushings, tried a known good set of shifter cables, replaced the master, slave, and slave pushrod.

I now have a metallic sound (kinda like a whine, kinda not) that goes up with RPM when the clutch is engaged,coming from the gearbox area. This sounds metal on metal but very gently, and it goes up with RPM. As soon as you depress the clutch even the slightest, it goes away.

I have a feeling my gearbox is fine, but my clutch pressure plate, flywheel, or something in that area has broken. I don't know the brand of clutch in it. It's about 10-15 thousand kms old. Sounds like I need a new one. Reccomendations for a clutch? I have a Gen 4 3SGTE @ 17psi so I'm not sure if I want a stock clutch.

[mknz]

Nice, at least half the problem sorted

Is the sound also present in neutral?
Can you hop underneath it, pull the inspection plate off the gearbox and have a geez?

[GlanzaAtHeart]

Yeah getting somewhere haha.

Present in neutral, only while the clutch is in engaged. moment I have my foot on the clutch pedal, it's gone.

had a small look, can't really see anything there to be honest.

[motorheadsw20]

I got a single port slave cylinder as well (and related issues https://mr2.org.nz/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=16086 ) and the whole extended push rod etc. etc.

While I still have some issues with the gear selection occasionally (which I believe are cable related) I initially had problems which appear to have been related to the clutch engagement height.

After a wee bit of mucking around I discovered that the master rod clevis (form a Repco master cylinder) is few mm shorter than the factory one. This resulted in the clutch engaging not too low but a little bit low for my liking. So I have welded an additional nut

on the existing one - thus extending the slave rod essentially.

With the original length rod the slave was not reaching it's end - with this one it can so you need to be carful how you adjust it if you go down this route. I found the best spot to adjust this to is to have it tight against the master cylinder and pedal (but not so tight that it starts pressing)

This has allowed me to adjust the pedal to engage half way off the floor - which sorted the shifting issues I was experiencing.

[Alsw20]

I broke a spring keeper when I was sold a cheap POS clutch plate. Possibility?