[SOLD] mknz's SW20 (Formerly Alex's)

Post by **GDII** » Sat Jul 11, 2015 5:47 pm

Looks great. What are you doing with the coolant tree on the back of the head? How are you going to put the radiator cap on?

Post by **JasonFriday13** » Sun Jul 12, 2015 4:24 pm

I restrained from asking that question as Wayne is working on that car, no doubt he will make up something.

Post by **Grrrrrrr!** » Sun Jul 12, 2015 6:51 pm

cut the flange off the gen4 coolant tree and weld to the gen2 one. Solved. I've been waiting for Wayne to do that to mine for about a year tho

Post by **GDII** » Sun Jul 12, 2015 9:57 pm

I only ask because there are a few ways to do it. One being what Grrrrrrr said and another welding a cap fitting on top of the coolant tree. I don't like the look of the second method but it has far less piping than stock.

Post by **Wayne** » Mon Jul 13, 2015 10:24 pm

I'm not telling

Post by **Dontcopy** » Sun Jul 19, 2015 10:26 pm

Righttttt update time.

Put all the suspension back in the rear, and replaced the last of the coolant hoses down the front. Front brakes got their rebuild and were installed, and she's now got basically brand new Rotors and Pads front and rear.

Wayne tidied up all the wiring aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaand went to start it and the fuel pump wasn't working.. so the tank came out again and turns out the ground wire in the tank broke at some point

But after a slightly interesting fix we got the motor started for the first time! Made a massive mess however lol

*Ehm*

The clutch and brakes got brand new fluid, it's got fresh coolant and of course oil + filter. We didn't have the time/Money to do anything special with the exhaust (It is coming though!) so I went and scrounged a stock SW20 exhaust from the wreckers. Was lucky and even got one with a cat delete pipe for a grand total of $50.

After rolling all the guards we got it back on all four wheels and out for a drive for the first time in 7 months.

And WHOLEY SHIT is this thing a mental little go-cart, it's an absolutely tremendous difference when compared to the tired old SW20 I bought it as. Look forward to brining it on a few of the MR2 Club runs!

And massive thanks to Wayne for all your help!

Post by **Swampy** » Sun Jul 19, 2015 10:52 pm

Nice work, good to see it going well, got any video of spirited driving yet?

Just out of interest how does the 2GR-FE go compared to other engine swap candidates like the 5th Gen BEAMS 3s-ge or the 4th gen 3s-gte from the Caldina?

Post by **Benckj** » Mon Jul 20, 2015 6:59 am

Good job.

Post by **Dontcopy** » Mon Jul 20, 2015 6:00 pm

Swampy wrote:Nice work, good to see it going well, got any video of spirited driving yet?

Just out of interest how does the 2GR-FE go compared to other engine swap candidates like the 5th Gen BEAMS 3s-ge or the 4th gen 3s-gte from the Caldina?

No videos just yet. Maybe later

How do you mean? the 2GR requires a lot more work and money than the other options, if that's what you mean

Post by **Grrrrrrr!** » Mon Jul 20, 2015 6:22 pm

Let us know how the cert goes.

Post by **DravidDavid** » Mon Jul 20, 2015 7:14 pm

Grrrrrrr! wrote:Let us know how the cert goes.

Pffff. Who needs a cert

I bet I could get that car through my local VTNZ with flying colours!

Post by **Swampy** » Mon Jul 20, 2015 7:35 pm

They won't know! If it's been fitted to look "factory"

But I meant in terms of performance compared to those swaps I mentioned.

Ah. Maybe I'll meet you one day and find out for myself

Post by **Alsw20** » Tue Jul 21, 2015 6:26 pm

2GR swap is the daddy. You get mid 12 second quarter mile performance and can run on regular unleaded.

Beams swap is cute and different, but really the only benefit would be in class racing if you had to keep under a 2000cc limit, remembering turbo engines get a multiplier effect on displacement in rules.

Gen4 is done because you can pick up donor cars reasonably cheaply and plentiful. From what fivebob has written on Toyspeed over the years on them, as long as you keep them stock and run them on 98 they should be reliable enough I guess. Gen3 would be better for bolt on power though.

Post by **Wayne** » Tue Jul 21, 2015 7:41 pm

the only limitations on the gen 4 is the rods .. but thats a good limitation .. 98 and 1 bar of boost is about all your going to get .. but they do make considerably better bottom end power than a gen3
gen 4 is a good engine for most mr2 drivers ... but not if you want big hp

Post by **DravidDavid** » Tue Jul 21, 2015 8:50 pm

Yep. An exhaust, pod filter, BOV is about all you can do to a gen 4 3SGTE. They were built for fuel economy (and they damn well failed!)

A friend of mine and one other in the Caldina club recently learned this first hand. I'll attach some photos so you know exactly how thin they are. This particular example was over-boost, or surge. It wasn't under any particular stress either, the guy was on the motorway at the time.

These engines are very prone to detonation and boost creep/surge. There are videos amongst Caldina owners with boost gauges at about 10psi and then hitting 25/30psi.

The other example I believe had the boost up to around 16psi from the stock 10psi. In my friends case, he lost all power and said he felt like he hit gravel. A cleanup crew was required. He had shattered his block right down the middle. It looked as if the only thing holding the block together was the top end!

: Block split in half.; shattered_block.jpg (108.39 KiB) Viewed 5361 times

: Cracked number 2 piston.; piston_twist2.jpg (52.6 KiB) Viewed 5361 times

: Snapped number 3 piston.; piston_twist1.jpg (41.18 KiB) Viewed 5361 times

The MR2 Owner's Club of New Zealand

[SOLD] mknz's SW20 (Formerly Alex's)

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