Project 9AGZE AW11

[mknz]

Aw, c'mon, do you have to be so practical and sensible

Nah that would mean you don't need anything since mr2s never drive

Seriously though that controller probably has a 0-5V output right? so unless you're bouncing off the limiter or you've got a fuel cut at 0% throttle you can probably richen up. Unless of course, your tune is raw and open-looped which I'd understand since that's easier to write

[nick.parker]

Yeah, the gauge is wired into my ECU, its mainly a tuning aid / sanity check as my car hasn't been in a solid / finished state for ages! My ECU firmware has a learning mode, where the system over time learns an offset to the mapped VE (doesn't modify the main V.E. map) in order to meet the target lambda, but I don't really use it and it needs more work! But its a useful feature for detecting problems, such as the sensor itself being buggered, a fuel injector(s) losing flow, fuel pressure low etc, or just a non-optimal tune. Will get onto it some time when feeling inspired.

[mknz]

My ECU firmware has a learning mode, where the system over time learns an offset to the mapped VE (doesn't modify the main V.E. map) in order to meet the target lambda, but I don't really use it and it needs more work!

I respect the effort you put in even more now

[nick.parker]

Weekend Progress Report!
It's out with the old -- 4A-GZE you are awesome, you were never opened and handled 18psi from an SC14

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And my first ever and obligatory "I'm in the engine bay pic!"

And OMG its so nice being able to work on things that nearly killed me previously - such as relocating the electric water pump

And using Aliexpress spring clips everywhere (20 for like $5 love them!) (tired on dripping screw clamps - got a couple more to replace - but darned remote thermostat cant fit them grr

And the small bad news

[mknz]

Are you relieving the SC14 of its duties?

Yeah classic AWs with that front mount. At least you won't have to worry about once it's fixed

[nick.parker]

Yeah I am releiving the SC14 of its duties - the SC14 provided a great adventure and the 'big' rootes blowers sounds amazing thrumming away behind you, sounding the best when spinning at a similar rate to the engine, creating amazing beat frequencies. The SC14 is definitely better than some people give it credit for. When I ran about 18 psi with hotter than stock cams, the car would do 80 to 120 in mid 3 seconds, so not a slouch, and that was with lowly 8:1 compression -- so many other things you could do - 20v VVT heads, more compression etc..

Thrumming sound from my car in 2007 with the SC14 -- running with a stock crank pulley.

[ClanFever]

The "I'm the engine, look at me" photo is so mandatory, I have at least a couple lying around

[nick.parker]

The "I'm the engine, look at me" photo is so mandatory, I have at least a couple lying around

Yeah, I think I am initiated properly to #MR2life now - still a mechanical hack, but now feeling validated

[nick.parker]

Gee whiz, not driving my fuel chugging Subaru wagon to work for a couple of months _almost_ pays for this ! So ROSS in Australia drew this (based on modular system they use for 4A pulleys), The SC part is 173mm and the alternator part is 136mm, and it has a damper too, and an extra SC rib (6 total) - so I can run a 6PK SC belt. Since I have a 7A block I need a custom bracket to have the alternator on the exhaust side anyway....the 7A block doesn't have half as many bolt holes on the exhaust side as a 4A block unfortunately, which make things a little trickier.....

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[nick.parker]

Well the COVID pullies finally turned up 4 months after ordering -- very happy with them I got two outers (aluminium) one for 'beast mode' which is 20mm larger than the smaller one (153mm and 173mm). The inner damper / crank part is steel.

And I also had a bunch of engine mounts / rear suspension parts blasted and then I painted them with a Zinc based paint after a quick de-grease.
Original

Post Blasting

Painted

[nick.parker]

And after some years...its now ready for the car. The 7A block has way fewer mounting bosses on the exhaust side, but I only need the alternator (130A so I can run electric air con PROBABLY and MAYBE electric power steering in the future) , which uses pretty much all the bosses available for the bottom mount, but there is literally only one place for the top mount/tensioner to mount (7AFE has stuff mount to head). So now I Just need to paint all the mild steel brackets, get some fuel line fittings to shorten lines, and then it is install time!

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SC Bypass valve

And some more bling....the media blasted gearbox..and I had all the steel bolt on bits blasted and then spray painted them with a zinc paint, and bought new rubbers and a few new bolts.

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An experiment with a battery drill and wire brush...I really need to find a much finer bristled brush as the brush is too harsh -- anyone know where to get some -- still, it's no where near as good as media blasting which can make the surface smoother depending using a gentler abrasive.....

[nick.parker]

Been painting brackets. Good news is 7AFE block has all the mounting bosses on intake side that 4A has! The beautiful E58 half shaft cast iron bracket works perfectly with SW20 turbo LSD axle and the 4AGZE gearbox. I'm able to use the stand 4AGZE supercharger mount and tensioner.

I need to drill and tap one hole. Think I can risk using the bracket as a guide for a 9mm drill bit...ideally want to centre the drill though....any machinists here know a good way to do this in situ? Was think to find some brass tube from a hobby shop to use as a guide.....

7AFE_SC_plus_axle_mounts.png (1.28 MiB) Viewed 3405 times

[mknz]

Use some hose around a centre punch, drill a 3mm with hose around it then do 9mm

[nick.parker]

Nothing much...but engine is now in the garage awaiting some final tweaks before getting installed. I've decided to add a extra idler pulley on top of the supercharger belt just to help calm the belt flapping resonance I saw on the dyno. Found a 6-pk belt for the supercharger 890mm, found a belt for the alternator 720mm. I still need to

• tidy up the alternator tensioner bracket (make a better one)

• tidy up the slotted holes in the alternator bracket

• change water to block adapter so I can get to engine mount bolts more easily

• fit MRP cam belt idler, alter cam belt cover to suit 7A

• remake a dipstick bracket that works better to hold dipstick oring at correct angle

• anodize anything related to the cooling system as normal 6061 aluminium seems to get eaten alive with bad coolant - a precaution

[*84vvt]

Cheers Nick
always good to see your updates .