Number 2 MR2

[Trotbags]

Funnily enough, I cycled the window lock switch a few times and then tried the window switch - and it worked. No idea why as I'd tested the window lock many times and even tried a replacement master switch. Buggered if I know. Maybe it was the shift cable that did it!

[GDII]

Turbo vs NA shift cable?

Was it because of the passenger window lock switch? seen that before

Seen that before too. Poor brother in law had no working windows in his 4 door Corolla for so long until he said something. I asked the question. Was an entertaining afternoon.

[Trotbags]

Not sure re the "turbo vs NA cable" as I haven't owned a turbo MR2 so it could well be. Hmmm could that be the excuse I need to get a turbo?

[GDII]

The green one is some form of aftermarket or rebuilt item. Looks like it can change length or the mounting locations.

For the Japanese cars there are a few part numbers for each of the NA and GT/GT-S gearboxes.
But to keep things simple it seems you can use the right cable between both gearbox and add a 9.5mm (3/8") spacer to the left cable mounting bracket on the gearbox. The place with the 2 studs holding the small bracket to the large one.
Like this one I advised the owner when doing a swap and it works. Credit for the idea is not me though.
https://www.instagram.com/p/B-x6RqqHqWA ... _copy_link

This shows the little coloured tape rings on the cables. Top is Turbo, bottom NA.


Part numbers for the JDM NA cars if anyway cares. This does not directly relate to the REV1-REV2 change for the green cable in the NA but does in the GT/GT-S.
Green or Right Hand cable
33821-17060 1989/12 - 1991/03
33821-17061 1991/03 - 1991/12
33821-17080 1991/12 - 1999/08
White or Left Hand cable
33822-17030 1989/12 - 1999/08

Part numbers for the GT/GT-S cars
Blue or Right Hand cable
33821-17070 1989/12 - 1991/12
33821-17090 1991/12 - 1999/08
Red or Left Hand cable
33822-17040 1989/12 - 1991/12
33822-17060 1991/12 - 1999/08

[Trotbags]

Thanks that is good info. The other thing that should have been a clue was the replacement shift bush I got was a little sloppy when fitted to the green cable but a good fit in the other side (original) and needed washers to keep it in place.

[GDII]

Yes that's an issue. Best replacement is spherical bearings at the gearbox end. The rubber with brass centre wears out. Other bushing replacements/adjustments can make the gearbox feel like new.

I can elaborate on those parts later if you want?

[Trotbags]

Thanks that would be helpful. I'm working to eliminate any slop in the gear change mechanism.

This is a good article about shift cables https://www.mr2australia.com/mr2play/do ... le=0;92710

And reading that article, I have the early design shift lever on my gearbox so I'll source the later one with less angle.

I got my spherical bushes out of the UK and they seem to be decent quality.

I also ordered a new clutch clevis pin and bush from Richard at Manawatu Toyota (shameless plug for a really helpful bugger) which I'll grab when they reopen. Mine has a bit of wear and no bush. I noticed before I changed the master Cylinder that there was some noticeable sideways movement when the clutch pedal was depressed.

Hopefully all these things will improve the drive-ability. And amid the curses, I am learning a lot about how the MR2 is put together!

[GDII]

I'll have a read of that then get back to you. It looks interesting and I wasn't aware of that change. I know the later model S54 is not the same as the early model but what was changed, I don't know.

[rieben]

A map book!? Such an interesting detail How old is it, I wonder? Once we found an old bike engine under some old rags in my brother's newly purchased real estate in Cannes. I don't know much about bikes but I think he managed to fix it somehow.

[Trotbags]

So the Aqua 90 NA is running well - the last lesson I learnt was use genuine Toyota sump washers. That fixed an annoying oil leak that I'd been struggling to find. It's the simple things.

Next project is Red - a 94 NA car that joined the crew post covid. Immaculate on the inside and mostly shiny on the outside. It has I suspect a blown head gasket - low compression across a few cylinders and the water smells like petrol and fumes. It has done 225kms and is in need of a new clutch so I figured a sensible approach is to grab a low km gen3 3SGE and do a swap. To date I've got a low km engine, a clutch kit and the following seals on order from Amayama (Thanks GDII - I spotted this list on a recent post of yours);

Valve Cover Seal No1
Valve Cover Seal No2
Cam shaft seal No1
Cam shaft seal No2
Crank Front Seal
Oil Pump Shaft Seal
Oil Pump O ring

Next step is to find a water pump, thermostat and cambelt kit - any suggestions on where to order (best price/quality) would be greatly appreciated!

Then it will be time to do the swap - reading various comments, I'm assuming dropping it out of the bottom is the best approach?

[Benckj]

Best to get OEM WP, Tstat and belt. It doesn’t come in a kit so will need tensioner and idler bearing as well. Prices are compatible to aftermarket but quality and all the required bits that come with it make it best value. Get a price from Mark at Manakau Toyota and tell him your a club member.

Bottom engine drop is way to go. Might as well look at any other replacement parts required like clutch and axle seals.

[Trotbags]

Thanks Jim (and Phill). I have ordered the Cambelt plus tensioners, waterpump plus gaskets and thermostat with gasket from Richard at Manawatu Toyota. The pricing was really, really good - better than most of the aftermarket prices I found. Once that, and all the other gaskets from Amayama arrive, then it will be time to prep the new engine.

[GDII]

Awesome! No point spending more than you have to for OEM supplied parts.

There is an ST205 Celica engine manual you can download from here. viewtopic.php?p=125056#p125056
So you can be sure you are doing the right things.

[Trotbags]

Yeah I was budgeting on $400 for just the cambelt kit but thanks to Richard (Toyota) got everything (cambelt kit, waterpump and thermostat) for less than that.

And thanks for the link - having never worked on a Gen3 before, this has already answered a few questions I had.

[GDII]

Yeah I was looking at GEN3 pricing for a cam belt and water pump job with all seals and bearings plus valve cover seals, less than $450 and that's paying shipping for two separate places.

The overall of the GEN3 3SGE isn't too much different to the GEN2 3SGE but the tensioner bearing and tensioner are a bit different. Hydraulic vs spring. The GEN3 belt has marks on it so you can line them up with the cams and crank pulley making it easier.