mknz manages to make everything he owns leak
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This section of the forum is a great resource if you're looking for ideas, and it's a cool way of obtaining technical information that may otherwise not have been posted. (Members can use the Search functionality at top right of the forum to speed up finding things) Please respect others' contributions and don't diss anyone - keep comments helpful, factual, positive and polite. One thread per vehicle or owner please - don't start lots of threads about just one car. And if you need assistance with your car and want to host a spanner day, please use the appropriate section of the forum: http://mr2.org.nz/phpbb3/viewforum.php?f=35 Thank you.
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- Site Admin - MR2OCNZ
- Posts: 1182
- Joined: Thu Apr 03, 2014 1:17 am
- Stomping Ground: Auckland
- Prime Mover: More than one MR2
- First name: Michael
- Contact:
Re: mknz manages to make everything he owns leak
Got some new lower ball joints for the front and new rear inner tie rod ends (for the custom ones Malcolm built)
-
- Site Admin - MR2OCNZ
- Posts: 1182
- Joined: Thu Apr 03, 2014 1:17 am
- Stomping Ground: Auckland
- Prime Mover: More than one MR2
- First name: Michael
- Contact:
Re: mknz manages to make everything he owns leak
Replaced the rack end boots with genuine ones because the universal ones are just too long on one side (the short side) and too short (on the long side).
Replaced the LHS front balljoint (it's on the bottom).
Replaced the rear inner tie rods for the custom thing that Malcolm built. The RHS failed a WOF.
IDK if it's just me, but everytime I torque the balljoints to the BGB spec the castle nut lines up perfectly with the hole.
Loosened the SC belt since it got a bit too tight with age, don't want any water pump dramas.
Got all the pin hole leaks patched, new flexi since it was busted and a new muffler done by Mr Muffler in Penrose. They built a jig, but as kind of expected it led to the muffler being on a bit of a lean and touching the heatshield under the boot on one edge. I brought it back to them on the car and they sorted it out pretty quickly. Would recommend. I replaced the exhaust gaskets at the same time and the nuts since they were a bit knackered. The new ones have a serated flange so hopefully that keeps it there, if it doesn't it's easy enough to get another M10*1.25 nut and do the double nut trick.
Got a wheel alignment because all the toe settings were going to be out. At the same time going to recenter the steering wheel after dropping the rack. I put the outer fronts on the same number of turns (18 on genuine inners and outers).
After all that got a new WOF.
I missed driving this, always immediately puts a smile on my face.
Replaced the LHS front balljoint (it's on the bottom).
Replaced the rear inner tie rods for the custom thing that Malcolm built. The RHS failed a WOF.
IDK if it's just me, but everytime I torque the balljoints to the BGB spec the castle nut lines up perfectly with the hole.
Loosened the SC belt since it got a bit too tight with age, don't want any water pump dramas.
Got all the pin hole leaks patched, new flexi since it was busted and a new muffler done by Mr Muffler in Penrose. They built a jig, but as kind of expected it led to the muffler being on a bit of a lean and touching the heatshield under the boot on one edge. I brought it back to them on the car and they sorted it out pretty quickly. Would recommend. I replaced the exhaust gaskets at the same time and the nuts since they were a bit knackered. The new ones have a serated flange so hopefully that keeps it there, if it doesn't it's easy enough to get another M10*1.25 nut and do the double nut trick.
Got a wheel alignment because all the toe settings were going to be out. At the same time going to recenter the steering wheel after dropping the rack. I put the outer fronts on the same number of turns (18 on genuine inners and outers).
After all that got a new WOF.
I missed driving this, always immediately puts a smile on my face.