Thomas' 1992 GT

[ClanFever]

Ah yes, the famous "my factory turbo motor in my mr2 is now cooked" state of the car. The gen 4 will be a great upgrade

[GlanzaAtHeart]

Very well said. Ironically, this is the *second* engine that's been in the car. A previous forum member already replaced the original cooked motor with a lower kms gen 2 3sgte. Now that's cooked too.

Rinse and repeat I guess.

I'm gonna be following GDII's build closely as I would love to get some OBD2 working.

Final bits of my parts arrived today. Only need the fuel lines now.

Anyone know what size and length I need for Gen 4 3SGTE feed and return fuel lines? I know it's a -6AN fitting but not much else. Cheers

[GDII]

You might be waiting a while for that. A few years.... But I do have 2 other cars I can test it on, one is done, the other is WIP but not too far to go.

I was sure I asked a mate who had the fuel hose lengths that PRIME MR2 supply but it seems I didn't write it down where I thought I had.

[GlanzaAtHeart]

Finally got my fuel lines sorted.

Fuel feed line: M12x1.25 fitting for filter, M12x1.25 again for rail fitting as well. Will need crush washers. 1.2m of hose length. I am going with either Aeroflow or NZKW braided line. Only because I think it looks fancy and doesn't cost more than ~ $40.

Finally everything is ready for the swap.

Ended up buying a Gen 2 3SGE throttle cable because every internet source says the stock Gen 2 3SGTE cable isn't long enough. However, speaking to some Gen 2 3SGTE to Gen 4 3SGTE owners, the Gen 2 3SGTE for RHD cars works, but LHD doesn't. That's why most internet sources will tell you so.

https://www.mr2oc.com/threads/how-to-ge ... ap.459443/ <- This link here helped me significantly.

Fingers crossed lockdown doesn't get extended too much longer, new date is Sept 11-13th.

[GlanzaAtHeart]

Whoops I should add,

The stock Gen 2 3SGTE fuel lines WILL bolt up to a Gen 4 3SGTE. Only now I am going custom cause I think the braided fuel lines look cool. So will the throttle cable.

[GDII]

Whoops I should add,

The stock Gen 2 3SGTE fuel lines WILL bolt up to a Gen 4 3SGTE. Only now I am going custom cause I think the braided fuel lines look cool. So will the throttle cable.

I have tried using a stock GEN2 3SGTE JDM cable and it isn't long enough. Even the NA is right on the limit.
Some of the fuel lines bolt to the other end of the rail so fit a bit different. Most swaps are probably 5SFE to GEN4 3SGTE.

[GlanzaAtHeart]

Whoops I should add,

The stock Gen 2 3SGTE fuel lines WILL bolt up to a Gen 4 3SGTE. Only now I am going custom cause I think the braided fuel lines look cool. So will the throttle cable.

I have tried using a stock GEN2 3SGTE JDM cable and it isn't long enough. Even the NA is right on the limit.
Some of the fuel lines bolt to the other end of the rail so fit a bit different. Most swaps are probably 5SFE to GEN4 3SGTE.

Hmm really? Someone told me their Gen 2 3SGTE JDM cable worked... Strange. A few gen 4 people have told me the gen 2 JDM 3SGTE fuel lines bolt up though.

Yeah the god awful 5SFE. I'd hate to have that motor.

[GDII]

Whoops I should add,

The stock Gen 2 3SGTE fuel lines WILL bolt up to a Gen 4 3SGTE. Only now I am going custom cause I think the braided fuel lines look cool. So will the throttle cable.

I have tried using a stock GEN2 3SGTE JDM cable and it isn't long enough. Even the NA is right on the limit.
Some of the fuel lines bolt to the other end of the rail so fit a bit different. Most swaps are probably 5SFE to GEN4 3SGTE.

Hmm really? Someone told me their Gen 2 3SGTE JDM cable worked... Strange. A few gen 4 people have told me the gen 2 JDM 3SGTE fuel lines bolt up though.

Yeah the god awful 5SFE. I'd hate to have that motor.

I mean, try it, I could be wrong.
I don't see why the fuel lines won't bolt up, it might just be a bit messy.
The 5S isn't all that bad, it donates itself to big torque builds!

[GlanzaAtHeart]

Engine swap looming this weekend, I have had some issues confirming if my car is in fact a Rev 2 SW20, or a Rev 1.

Chassis number is 67375. Which is Rev 2. No sign of any tampering with the chassis number.

However these parts are Rev 1:

- Outside trim strips are black.
- Speedo is cable driven not electronically driven.
- Sway bar mounts are 2 bolts rather than nuts.
- ECU part number is Rev 1.
- Rear trailing arms and subframe are Rev 1.

I don't know what my car is to be honest, it could be a Rev 2, but everything pins to it being a Rev 1 with a Rev 2 chassis number.

Big thanks to GDII to helping me slueth this one out.

Anyone seen this before?

[pbaron]

Your chassis number is for a Rev 2 Coupe and your car is a t-bar, some pics of the area where the chassis number is stamped in and the plate in the frunk would be interesting to see.

Engine swap looming this weekend, I have had some issues confirming if my car is in fact a Rev 2 SW20, or a Rev 1.

Chassis number is 67375. Which is Rev 2. No sign of any tampering with the chassis number.

However these parts are Rev 1:

- Outside trim strips are black.
- Speedo is cable driven not electronically driven.
- Sway bar mounts are 2 bolts rather than nuts.
- ECU part number is Rev 1.
- Rear trailing arms and subframe are Rev 1.

I don't know what my car is to be honest, it could be a Rev 2, but everything pins to it being a Rev 1 with a Rev 2 chassis number.

Big thanks to GDII to helping me slueth this one out.

Anyone seen this before?

[GDII]

Your chassis number is for a Rev 2 Coupe and your car is a t-bar, some pics of the area where the chassis number is stamped in and the plate in the frunk would be interesting to see.

Engine swap looming this weekend, I have had some issues confirming if my car is in fact a Rev 2 SW20, or a Rev 1.

Chassis number is 67375. Which is Rev 2. No sign of any tampering with the chassis number.

However these parts are Rev 1:

- Outside trim strips are black.
- Speedo is cable driven not electronically driven.
- Sway bar mounts are 2 bolts rather than nuts.
- ECU part number is Rev 1.
- Rear trailing arms and subframe are Rev 1.

I don't know what my car is to be honest, it could be a Rev 2, but everything pins to it being a Rev 1 with a Rev 2 chassis number.

Big thanks to GDII to helping me slueth this one out.

Anyone seen this before?

I didn't see that. RED FLAG!! Either way the car is a REV1. Seems like it has been wrong from when it was imported. Very interesting.

[GlanzaAtHeart]

Moving away from the Rev 1/2 discussion for now. Not done on it, but will come back to it for later, besides, more exciting news!

Gen 4 3SGTE is in and running!!!! I'm beyond ecstatic at this point. It's taken only 24 hours to remove the old rooted Gen 2, and put in the Gen 4 3SGTE.

Big ups to Logan, Jabeo, Tony, and Carl who helped me immensely today. Also a big shout out to GDII for all the help, especially the wiring.

This was a pretty straight forward swap. Everything bolted in and out. Not saying it was easy, especially with an obscene amount of oil everywhere. Genuinely have been thinking that my subframe was black. Turns out it's light grey and has been covered in sludge all this time.... So much oil everywhere. Copious amounts. I have stained about 500m of road out of my house. Neighbours aren't happy

Gen 2 3SGTE Throttle cable fits!

The fuel feed line is not 1.2m/4ft! That is a lie! It is about 0.8m. I'll measure it tomorrow when I'm back fixing the car.

We have it running, but rookie mistake, I didn't bring clutch fluid. Will update tomorrow. Should be driving in no time.

Don't have any photos at the moment but will post some up tomorrow.

[GDII]

That's exciting news that it's in and running! Good times!

[GlanzaAtHeart]

Nothing but issues.

Got the car home yesterday, but Check Engine Light galore, and battery issues.

Bought a new 680CCA (Gigantic) battery, and found that I forgot to bypass the Gen 2 Fuel Pump Relay. GDII does a good here: https://www.mr2oc.com/threads/gen-3-fue ... lp.644393/

But for going to a Gen 4 3SGTE, you just need to loop the 2 black and blue wires. Thick wire if you got it, as it needs to power the pump. Otherwise if you don't have any, like I didn't, just cut them, strip them, and connect em together. I crimped them.

Went for a test drive, running rough, particularly below ~ 2.5k RPM. No CEL. Filled up gas, only for it to have a dead battery. After a few times she started. Keep having battery issues. But no altenator light. Running, it sits at ~13-13.5V. No clue what it is

But going home, I stalled at the lights (Rookie move, not used to the new clutch), and then when finally jumped it, runs like garbage, spitting out CELs and had to tow it home. Code 31.

Unplugged MAP Sensor, and she dies. It wants to run, but keeps dieing out. Checked the sensor, seems fine. But enquired into getting a new one.

Under further investigation, it seems I managed the break this part:

Parts Diagram.png (39.05 KiB) Viewed 3073 times

The left orange circle. The other part is the MAP Sensor. It has 2 small attachments for vacuum hoses. The MAP Sensor one was broken already. Map sensor is 89421-21010 and the other piece below is 90917-11039.

It must come off with a 24mm spanner. It is painful to remove, as there a lot in the way. However, if it is already broken, break it further with a hammer and a screwdrive, and a 24mm socket slides right on. I did it this way. Re-installation won't be as simple......

I have emailed Toyota for new parts, and will visit Zebra who have a ST215 Caldina, tomorrow.

Nearly enough to get it running. There are some small other issues, like I don't have a vehicle speed sensor (As my gearbox is a rev 1, hence a speedo cable), and my battery keeps getting drained and sits at a low voltage. The speed sensor I know the fix to (Thanks GDII again), however the battery I have no clue on if anyone could provide some help.

But that's all for now, no pics yet, I want to upload them all when it's done and running I have some videos as well.

[GDII]

Bought a new 680CCA (Gigantic) battery, and found that I forgot to bypass the Gen 2 Fuel Pump Relay. GDII does a good here: https://www.mr2oc.com/threads/gen-3-fue ... lp.644393/

But for going to a Gen 4 3SGTE, you just need to loop the 2 black and blue wires. Thick wire if you got it, as it needs to power the pump. Otherwise if you don't have any, like I didn't, just cut them, strip them, and connect em together. I crimped them.

Not technically true. If the wiring was thought about more you could run the standard MR2 3SGTE fuel pump resistor relay and resistor with the GEN4 swap harness. Or you could use the GEN4 parts if you had them. Most swaps are NA to Turbo so this part gets removed.
The system does have a tendency to fail but it serves a purpose. 1 to reduce fuel pump noise and 2 to reduce the amount of fuel being pumped into the hot engine bay while it is not needed to stop the fuel from getting unnecessarily hot. I've taken this system out on the 2 previous swaps I've done wiring for as they were NA cars but also they did not have the resistor or relay with the harness so would be harder to find them. I'll be using this system on my swap.

Unplugged MAP Sensor, and she dies. It wants to run, but keeps dieing out. Checked the sensor, seems fine. But enquired into getting a new one.

Under further investigation, it seems I managed the break this part: Parts Diagram.png

The left orange circle. The other part is the MAP Sensor. It has 2 small attachments for vacuum hoses. The MAP Sensor one was broken already. Map sensor is 89421-21010 and the other piece below is 90917-11039.

It's actually PNC 23265 part number 90917-11039 that was damaged. Your image shows the brake booster vacuum ports rather than the gas filter.

Nearly enough to get it running. There are some small other issues, like I don't have a vehicle speed sensor (As my gearbox is a rev 1, hence a speedo cable), and my battery keeps getting drained and sits at a low voltage. The speed sensor I know the fix to (Thanks GDII again), however the battery I have no clue on if anyone could provide some help.

Seems like your wiring harness is missing a lot of stuff and wired in a very odd way compared to how it should be done. It seems to have all the bits to make it run but that's it. And even then that's been wired in an odd way.