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Torque the cam cap bolts on the GEN4 3SGTE to 19Nm in several passes (I did at least 4) in the correct sequence with some oil under the bolt head as shown in the service manual. 2, 3, 5, 4, 1.
Remember there is sealant around the edges of the No.1 cap.
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Specs are:
0.15 to 0.25mm for the intake
0.28 to 0.38mm for the exhaust
Luckily mine are all in spec still. The engine was very quiet when I had it running which is good. I took all the valve train parts out and bagged them individually so they would all go back into the same position. This appears to have paid off as I'm not having to check and redo it all.
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Been awhile since I've re-built mine but it looks like you didn't assemble the inner race orinetation correctly. If it goes together easy then its the worng way. Pic below of my axle including the use of a HD bearing cage (with OEM comparison), new cork gaskets, bearings and outer can.
Attachments
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Jim Benck
90 rev 1 parts car
98 rev 5 GT- all the mods
Been awhile since I've re-built mine but it looks like you didn't assemble the inner race orinetation correctly. If it goes together easy then its the worng way. Pic below of my axle including the use of a HD bearing cage (with OEM comparison), new cork gaskets, bearings and outer can.
Good morning Jim!
I left the updates at this point just for you my friend. I knew this would get picked up by you.
This was only putting it back together prior to disassembly again for a final clean.
Yes I did put it together wrong and I was aware of the small vs big sides lining up. When assembling I looked at the back and lined up the small and big thinking it would be right when I put it together but when you look at the front it lines up small to small. Learning for me.
The joints do not pivot when assembled this way.
I have since assembled them the correct way. Will post more but was just doing a cheeky bait for you.
Yes, putting them together the wrong way is easy as but I didn't find assembling them the right way much harder.
Didn't relaise it was a test post for me but at least I passed. Not many people seem to rebuild the inner CV's anymore. It makes a horrendous mess of your axles and other bits if it decides to let go. Are you installing the stronger cages?
Jim Benck
90 rev 1 parts car
98 rev 5 GT- all the mods
Didn't relaise it was a test post for me but at least I passed. Not many people seem to rebuild the inner CV's anymore. It makes a horrendous mess of your axles and other bits if it decides to let go. Are you installing the stronger cages?
I mean, it could be fore anyone but if anyone would pick up on it, it would be you. It's part of my project posting anyway for information for anyone who finds it.
At this point I am not installing stronger cages. I had a look a while back for the ones you got and they didn't appear to exist anymore. The website is dead, the company seems to be closed down.
I don't intend on making heaps of power nor will I be launching the car hard. So they will be ok.
Frm memory there was only two companies that made the kits, CRW and ATS. I bought 5 x S1 basic kits as shown in the above pic and on-sold the ones I didn't need to other club members. Figured I'd do as had engine out of car and axles on the bench.
Jim Benck
90 rev 1 parts car
98 rev 5 GT- all the mods
E153 inner CV joints cleaned and reassembled the correct way. Small to big instead of small to small. If you don't assemble it correctly the joins will not bend like they are meant to.
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The next job on the GEN4 3SGTE was to drill and tap the valve cover for reinstalling the baffle plates. I drilled the 'rivets' out holding the plates on so that when the cover was vapour blasted I wouldn't have any glass beads floating around in my engine. Same or when I get it powder coated, keep it clean so I don't have unwanted particles in the engine.
The bolts I am using are M5x0.8 imm long stainless steel cap screws. I used a 4mm drill bit but technically you should use a 4.2mm bit. The drill press I borrowed made quick work of it. I set the depth gauge to 12mm to allow the tap to go into the hole and give enough length for the bolt.
Then get a starter tap to start the hole then move onto a bottoming tap. I used CRC 556 as a lubricant then compressed air to blow out all the aluminium chips.
When I go to install the baffle plates I'll be using the same Wurth RTV as the sump and using Loctite for the bolts so they don't come out.
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