GDII's Detailing
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- GDII
- Forum Moderator - MR2OCNZ
- Posts: 5719
- Joined: Sun Jul 10, 2011 5:13 pm
- Stomping Ground: Wellington
- Prime Mover: SW20
- First name: Phill
GDII's Detailing
I have always been quite keen on keeping my car clean and also learning as much as I can about cars in general. This has lead me down the path of detailing and paint correction. Over the last 15 years I have done some form of detailing and paint correction starting with a basic wash of the exterior and vacuum of the interior.
Then came compounding the paint by hand and polishing at an amateur level as a teenager not knowing much about paint except it was a coating with some colour and it clearly had a thickness to it.
Over the last 11 years of owning my red SW20 MR2 I have polished it and compounded it many many times. Learning as I went then understanding different paints as I moved onto helping others with their cars. Turns out the early generation SW20s have very soft paint and are also single stage. So as I found out in recent years, polishing your car too much removes paint and now there are patches with primer showing through, although shiny primer as it would be from polishing it.
I now have a small list of cars I have worked on to clean, inside and outside and the engine bay plus doing paint correction. I haven't documented some of these cars that well but this last project I have a few more photos (read heaps) to show the process of restoring a car back to or beyond it's former glory.
Below is a list of cars I have worked on and the paint colour and type. The colour and type of paint matters as some are harder to correct fully than others.
AE111 Toyota Carib. White Single Stage
E36 BMW 318Ti. Black with clearcoat
REV1 SW20 MR2. Red with many repainted panels. Single stage.
REV2 SW20 MR2. Red. Appears to have had a full respray. Single Stage.
REV3 SW20 MR2. White Single Stage.
GEN4 Subaru Outback. Black metallic (green and blue fleck) Clearcoat
2001 Holden Cruze. Silver Clearcoat
Honda Logo. Green clearcoat
Maserati Ghibli S. I only wash this car, no paint correction. It's a brilliant Blu Emozione with a clearcoat and paint protection film on some panels.
2006 Mazda 3 MPS. Grey metallic clearcoat.
MKIV Golf. Red with a respray and peeling clearcoat.
1996 Ford Probe
I'll cover some of the cars above with photos in subsequent posts but for now I want to focus on the last project I worked on which is the REV2 SW20 MR2. This one was an interesting and challenging car to work on. You'll see why below.
I had the opportunity to look at the car about 6 months ago to gauge what needed done and did a quick test spot by hand to see if it would be repairable. Luckily it was so I agreed to do the work.
Starting off, here are some shots before I washed the car. It has been sitting outside for a while and then in a garage for a bit too but even though the owner told me he had never washed it since it was purchased 2 years ago as a rolling shell it was surprisingly clean.
I apologise in advance for some of the shocking photos. Old phone tech and not holding it still enough.
The front right guard in desperate need of attention. As you'll see most of the car was like this. Tail lights were just the typical red faded but not too bad. A light polish brought them back to being nicer and fitting well with the rest of the car later on. Left over wax from a previous attempt at trying to make it look better. Engine lids on turbos are rather difficult to polish out the grille. All by hand, makes a mess of your fingers. Genuine REV5 spoiler in factory red. I took off the side caps to clean inside and to take a look at what interesting things might be hiding in there. It's the first REV5 spoiler I have been able to get my hands on to take a look. Learn all the things.... Looks like Olaf has got his hands on the light controls again! Quick spray of water made it look a bit better. Time for washing! All clean. Looking better already. First pass on the front guard. Quite a significant change but needed more work. That's a bit better. Note the tape on the trim. This is used to prevent cutting compound getting into the old trim. Once it is in there it's almost impossible to get out. Using a pencil eraser helps but not always perfect. Best to stop it completely before it even has a chance. The lower side of the car done except the front bumper. Half and half shots showing the difference. This corner of the car was the old section that still had a shine and red visible. Half is down to it being polished previously and the other is this car is a REV2 so has had the spoiler side pod holes welded and then painted this rear quarter panel. It still needed a good going over as it was all scratched up from people leaning on the car doing engine work. The internals of a genuine REV5 spoiler side cap. Engine lid done by machine polisher. I came back the next day to do the grille by hand. By the end of the 9 hours I worked on the car on the Saturday I was a little worn out. Roof almost done. A big change here. The roof and bonnet are normally the hardest parts to get right as they are large flat panels that show any incorrect work. Half and half bonnet and bumper. Bad photo I know but this is it completed. A little bit of tyre shine in the form of CarPro PERL and same for the black trim on the windows and the rubber mud flaps. I think this came out rather well and based on the response from the owner it was worth the small fee to restore the paint instead of repaint for a much higher cost.
The car is actually very straight with minimal dings, very few scratches and limited paint chips. I suspect this is mostly due to the fact it's been painted before. So for a car that started of with some of the worst faded paint I have worked on, it came back to life extremely well.
Then came compounding the paint by hand and polishing at an amateur level as a teenager not knowing much about paint except it was a coating with some colour and it clearly had a thickness to it.
Over the last 11 years of owning my red SW20 MR2 I have polished it and compounded it many many times. Learning as I went then understanding different paints as I moved onto helping others with their cars. Turns out the early generation SW20s have very soft paint and are also single stage. So as I found out in recent years, polishing your car too much removes paint and now there are patches with primer showing through, although shiny primer as it would be from polishing it.
I now have a small list of cars I have worked on to clean, inside and outside and the engine bay plus doing paint correction. I haven't documented some of these cars that well but this last project I have a few more photos (read heaps) to show the process of restoring a car back to or beyond it's former glory.
Below is a list of cars I have worked on and the paint colour and type. The colour and type of paint matters as some are harder to correct fully than others.
AE111 Toyota Carib. White Single Stage
E36 BMW 318Ti. Black with clearcoat
REV1 SW20 MR2. Red with many repainted panels. Single stage.
REV2 SW20 MR2. Red. Appears to have had a full respray. Single Stage.
REV3 SW20 MR2. White Single Stage.
GEN4 Subaru Outback. Black metallic (green and blue fleck) Clearcoat
2001 Holden Cruze. Silver Clearcoat
Honda Logo. Green clearcoat
Maserati Ghibli S. I only wash this car, no paint correction. It's a brilliant Blu Emozione with a clearcoat and paint protection film on some panels.
2006 Mazda 3 MPS. Grey metallic clearcoat.
MKIV Golf. Red with a respray and peeling clearcoat.
1996 Ford Probe
I'll cover some of the cars above with photos in subsequent posts but for now I want to focus on the last project I worked on which is the REV2 SW20 MR2. This one was an interesting and challenging car to work on. You'll see why below.
I had the opportunity to look at the car about 6 months ago to gauge what needed done and did a quick test spot by hand to see if it would be repairable. Luckily it was so I agreed to do the work.
Starting off, here are some shots before I washed the car. It has been sitting outside for a while and then in a garage for a bit too but even though the owner told me he had never washed it since it was purchased 2 years ago as a rolling shell it was surprisingly clean.
I apologise in advance for some of the shocking photos. Old phone tech and not holding it still enough.
The front right guard in desperate need of attention. As you'll see most of the car was like this. Tail lights were just the typical red faded but not too bad. A light polish brought them back to being nicer and fitting well with the rest of the car later on. Left over wax from a previous attempt at trying to make it look better. Engine lids on turbos are rather difficult to polish out the grille. All by hand, makes a mess of your fingers. Genuine REV5 spoiler in factory red. I took off the side caps to clean inside and to take a look at what interesting things might be hiding in there. It's the first REV5 spoiler I have been able to get my hands on to take a look. Learn all the things.... Looks like Olaf has got his hands on the light controls again! Quick spray of water made it look a bit better. Time for washing! All clean. Looking better already. First pass on the front guard. Quite a significant change but needed more work. That's a bit better. Note the tape on the trim. This is used to prevent cutting compound getting into the old trim. Once it is in there it's almost impossible to get out. Using a pencil eraser helps but not always perfect. Best to stop it completely before it even has a chance. The lower side of the car done except the front bumper. Half and half shots showing the difference. This corner of the car was the old section that still had a shine and red visible. Half is down to it being polished previously and the other is this car is a REV2 so has had the spoiler side pod holes welded and then painted this rear quarter panel. It still needed a good going over as it was all scratched up from people leaning on the car doing engine work. The internals of a genuine REV5 spoiler side cap. Engine lid done by machine polisher. I came back the next day to do the grille by hand. By the end of the 9 hours I worked on the car on the Saturday I was a little worn out. Roof almost done. A big change here. The roof and bonnet are normally the hardest parts to get right as they are large flat panels that show any incorrect work. Half and half bonnet and bumper. Bad photo I know but this is it completed. A little bit of tyre shine in the form of CarPro PERL and same for the black trim on the windows and the rubber mud flaps. I think this came out rather well and based on the response from the owner it was worth the small fee to restore the paint instead of repaint for a much higher cost.
The car is actually very straight with minimal dings, very few scratches and limited paint chips. I suspect this is mostly due to the fact it's been painted before. So for a car that started of with some of the worst faded paint I have worked on, it came back to life extremely well.
Last edited by GDII on Wed Aug 14, 2019 8:14 am, edited 1 time in total.
1990 SW20 MR2 G-Limited (GEN4 3SGTE Installed)
2000 AE111R Corolla Wagon NZ New Daily
1996 AE101R Corolla Sprint NZ New Selling Soon
1990 EP81 Starlet XL (Sold)
1990 EE90 Corolla XL (Sold)
Instagram https://www.instagram.com/sw20glimited/
2000 AE111R Corolla Wagon NZ New Daily
1996 AE101R Corolla Sprint NZ New Selling Soon
1990 EP81 Starlet XL (Sold)
1990 EE90 Corolla XL (Sold)
Instagram https://www.instagram.com/sw20glimited/
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- Stomping Ground: Wellington
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- First name: James
Re: GDII's Detailing
Woohoo.
Looks very very cool. Phill you did an amazing job. Thank you again.
It now looks like every generic internet sw20
and I've lost my cup holder in the garage...
New pictures:
Yes thats my uzs186 3uz crown majesta in the background
Looks very very cool. Phill you did an amazing job. Thank you again.
It now looks like every generic internet sw20
and I've lost my cup holder in the garage...
New pictures:
Yes thats my uzs186 3uz crown majesta in the background
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- ClanFever
- Executive Officer - MR2OCNZ
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Re: GDII's Detailing
Thanks for the write up Phil, I can vouch for your work, cannot wait till my SW gets it's share
Anyone who comes on my runs will know exactly what you meanGDII wrote:Looks like Olaf has got his hands on the light controls again!
Ex-President & Wellington Area Coordinator & Lower North MR2 Leader
Current: 1992 Toyota MR2 G-Limited with Gen 4 3S-GTE + CT20B (APEXED), 2005 Toyota IST, 2008 Toyota Vanguard - 2GR!
Past: 1990 Toyota MR2 G-Limited, "Semi Parts Car" 1991 Toyota MR2 G-Limited, '91 G-Limited, '89 G-Limited, '91 NZ New MR2, '91 G-Limited, '91 GT (Parts Car), '99 Altezza 3SGE, '98 Altezza 1GFE, '88 Corolla, '96 Curren, '94 Ceres Corolla, '94 Levin, '90 Hiace Super Custom 4x4, '91 Mirage, '93 MX-6 J-Spec, '91 Familia, '91 Galant, '90 Navara, '96 Commodore, '94 Pajero, '89 Lancer, '93 Pajero, '92 Pajero, '89 Mirage, '92 Terrano, '87 Familia, '03 Colt, '91 Pajero, '91 Pajero, '97 Carib, '96 Carina, '02 Turbo Forester
Current: 1992 Toyota MR2 G-Limited with Gen 4 3S-GTE + CT20B (APEXED), 2005 Toyota IST, 2008 Toyota Vanguard - 2GR!
Past: 1990 Toyota MR2 G-Limited, "Semi Parts Car" 1991 Toyota MR2 G-Limited, '91 G-Limited, '89 G-Limited, '91 NZ New MR2, '91 G-Limited, '91 GT (Parts Car), '99 Altezza 3SGE, '98 Altezza 1GFE, '88 Corolla, '96 Curren, '94 Ceres Corolla, '94 Levin, '90 Hiace Super Custom 4x4, '91 Mirage, '93 MX-6 J-Spec, '91 Familia, '91 Galant, '90 Navara, '96 Commodore, '94 Pajero, '89 Lancer, '93 Pajero, '92 Pajero, '89 Mirage, '92 Terrano, '87 Familia, '03 Colt, '91 Pajero, '91 Pajero, '97 Carib, '96 Carina, '02 Turbo Forester
- thorns
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Re: GDII's Detailing
Well done, that has come up looking great!
1990 SW20 Turbo, Previously 1991 Green SW20 Turbo basket case
- 4CylinderSpecial
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Re: GDII's Detailing
Great work. Get up to Auckland and do mine
- tw2
- Area Coordinator - MR2OCNZ
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Re: GDII's Detailing
Wow looks amazing. Unfortunately I think mine needs new paint
Thomas, 91 G, 05 E55
Area Coordinator Waikato
Area Coordinator Waikato
- GDII
- Forum Moderator - MR2OCNZ
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- Joined: Sun Jul 10, 2011 5:13 pm
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- First name: Phill
Re: GDII's Detailing
We will get it driving first Then we can look at how we approach your paint.ClanFever wrote:Thanks for the write up Phil, I can vouch for your work, cannot wait till my SW gets it's share
Anyone who comes on my runs will know exactly what you meanGDII wrote:Looks like Olaf has got his hands on the light controls again!
Thanks. I was surprised how easy it was to get most coming up good.thorns wrote:Well done, that has come up looking great!
No! You come to me!4CylinderSpecial wrote:Great work. Get up to Auckland and do mine
That depends. Does it have cracking, pealing clear coat and lots of deep scratches to the primer? If so then probably but if not then it can be saved. It may not come up perfect but you'll be surprised how much better it can be just from proper paint correction.tw2 wrote:Wow looks amazing. Unfortunately I think mine needs new paint
1990 SW20 MR2 G-Limited (GEN4 3SGTE Installed)
2000 AE111R Corolla Wagon NZ New Daily
1996 AE101R Corolla Sprint NZ New Selling Soon
1990 EP81 Starlet XL (Sold)
1990 EE90 Corolla XL (Sold)
Instagram https://www.instagram.com/sw20glimited/
2000 AE111R Corolla Wagon NZ New Daily
1996 AE101R Corolla Sprint NZ New Selling Soon
1990 EP81 Starlet XL (Sold)
1990 EE90 Corolla XL (Sold)
Instagram https://www.instagram.com/sw20glimited/
- tw2
- Area Coordinator - MR2OCNZ
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- First name: Thomas
Re: GDII's Detailing
The front bumper looks like it has been sprayed with gravel and there are large paint chips to the primer in a few spots on most panels. Roof was resprayed with that rear window trim on so it has cracked across the roof line where they meet. One day I will get a semi-proper job done. I will take off everything that easily comes off- mirrors, front quarter panels, bonnet, boot, lid, windscreen seal and mask the rest.That depends. Does it have cracking, pealing clear coat and lots of deep scratches to the primer? If so then probably but if not then it can be saved. It may not come up perfect but you'll be surprised how much better it can be just from proper paint correction.
Thomas, 91 G, 05 E55
Area Coordinator Waikato
Area Coordinator Waikato
- Mr Shiny
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Re: GDII's Detailing
Nice work Phill! Reminds me of when I did this one. What products did you use? I also have some fantastic engine bay spray (can't buy in shops) that you're welcome to have some. I'll never get through it all!
“If you think the professionals are expensive, you should see what the amateurs can cost you.”
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- GDII
- Forum Moderator - MR2OCNZ
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- First name: Phill
Re: GDII's Detailing
Looks epic. Great job. These SWs really can come back to life. A white one I did for a club member may have looked the same but as it was white you couldn't see the oxidation so easily.Mr Shiny wrote:Nice work Phill! Reminds me of when I did this one. What products did you use? I also have some fantastic engine bay spray (can't buy in shops) that you're welcome to have some. I'll never get through it all!
before.jpg
after.jpg
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bjhj3i3lpx2/
What is the product for engine bays? What does it do? Cleans or shines?
Products I used on this detail are:
CarPro Clearcut for a one step cut and polish. This stuff is great.
CarPro PERL on the rubber and black plastic trim. Same for tyres.
Meguiars Carnauba wax for the final protection coating on the paint and wheels.
I have a lot of other products I use sometimes but running very low on them as I've not been able to buy them at reasonable costs lately. But my favorite product is CarPro Hydro2. I haven't put it on my car for 8+ months but it still allows the paint to bead and clear off the dust and dirt in the rain. I also haven't washed my MR2 since December 2018.
1990 SW20 MR2 G-Limited (GEN4 3SGTE Installed)
2000 AE111R Corolla Wagon NZ New Daily
1996 AE101R Corolla Sprint NZ New Selling Soon
1990 EP81 Starlet XL (Sold)
1990 EE90 Corolla XL (Sold)
Instagram https://www.instagram.com/sw20glimited/
2000 AE111R Corolla Wagon NZ New Daily
1996 AE101R Corolla Sprint NZ New Selling Soon
1990 EP81 Starlet XL (Sold)
1990 EE90 Corolla XL (Sold)
Instagram https://www.instagram.com/sw20glimited/
- Mr Shiny
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Re: GDII's Detailing
I quite like using DAT type compounds like Sonax Perfect Finish. Sadly like you mention, price is a factor as this stuff is about $80US for 1L & I have to get it in from the States. I do use quite a bit of Meguiars too as I have a Tradesaver account with them. I really love using their MF cutting pads & D300. Excellent cutting, long working time & no dusting.
The engine bay stuff is a 3D product. Basically you dilute the stuff & just mist spray it around the engine bay. I usually give the engine a bit of a dusting & blow out with the compressor first, but then this stuff coats everything & dries to leave a fairly clean/new looking engine bay. I should've taken before & afters of the car I'm currently working on that I have used it on.
The engine bay stuff is a 3D product. Basically you dilute the stuff & just mist spray it around the engine bay. I usually give the engine a bit of a dusting & blow out with the compressor first, but then this stuff coats everything & dries to leave a fairly clean/new looking engine bay. I should've taken before & afters of the car I'm currently working on that I have used it on.
“If you think the professionals are expensive, you should see what the amateurs can cost you.”
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- Benckj
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Re: GDII's Detailing
If your not drastically changing colours I'd leave as much on when re-spraying. Can still do a professional job by masking and prepping all the parts to be painted. As my Brother from PPG taught me you want to have the panels in the correct place even if removed as you can get a variation in shades due to shooting in a different position (ie hanging engine lid vertically). This is especially true when using additives like metal flake or pearl tones.tw2 wrote:The front bumper looks like it has been sprayed with gravel and there are large paint chips to the primer in a few spots on most panels. Roof was resprayed with that rear window trim on so it has cracked across the roof line where they meet. One day I will get a semi-proper job done. I will take off everything that easily comes off- mirrors, front quarter panels, bonnet, boot, lid, windscreen seal and mask the rest.That depends. Does it have cracking, pealing clear coat and lots of deep scratches to the primer? If so then probably but if not then it can be saved. It may not come up perfect but you'll be surprised how much better it can be just from proper paint correction.
Jim Benck
90 rev 1 parts car
98 rev 5 GT- all the mods
90 rev 1 parts car
98 rev 5 GT- all the mods
- tw2
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Re: GDII's Detailing
No colour change, I really like it (the green/blue colour whatever it's called).Benckj wrote: If your not drastically changing colours I'd leave as much on when re-spraying. Can still do a professional job by masking and prepping all the parts to be painted. As my Brother from PPG taught me you want to have the panels in the correct place even if removed as you can get a variation in shades due to shooting in a different position (ie hanging engine lid vertically). This is especially true when using additives like metal flake or pearl tones.
Thomas, 91 G, 05 E55
Area Coordinator Waikato
Area Coordinator Waikato
- GDII
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Re: GDII's Detailing
This is the 2004 GEN4 Subaru Outback I did a while back. This one had some pretty extreme scratching in the clearcoat that needed a lot of work.
This car got a full detail. Inside and out and the engine bay. I didn't quite go to the extents of doing under the chassis though.
It was so bad once I had finished I realised there was actaully blue and green flecks in the paint. This could now been seen from at least 4m away.
Black is one of the hardest paints to get right and this one still wasn't perfect. I was still learning how a particular product worked too.
This car got a full detail. Inside and out and the engine bay. I didn't quite go to the extents of doing under the chassis though.
It was so bad once I had finished I realised there was actaully blue and green flecks in the paint. This could now been seen from at least 4m away.
Black is one of the hardest paints to get right and this one still wasn't perfect. I was still learning how a particular product worked too.
1990 SW20 MR2 G-Limited (GEN4 3SGTE Installed)
2000 AE111R Corolla Wagon NZ New Daily
1996 AE101R Corolla Sprint NZ New Selling Soon
1990 EP81 Starlet XL (Sold)
1990 EE90 Corolla XL (Sold)
Instagram https://www.instagram.com/sw20glimited/
2000 AE111R Corolla Wagon NZ New Daily
1996 AE101R Corolla Sprint NZ New Selling Soon
1990 EP81 Starlet XL (Sold)
1990 EE90 Corolla XL (Sold)
Instagram https://www.instagram.com/sw20glimited/
- GDII
- Forum Moderator - MR2OCNZ
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- Joined: Sun Jul 10, 2011 5:13 pm
- Stomping Ground: Wellington
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- First name: Phill
Re: GDII's Detailing
This is the MPS 3 I did a while back. I only used CarPro Fixer which is a light polish as the car was in quite good condition. All I wanted to do was remove the swirls that show up in the sun.
This car also had some aftermarket Autoexe wiper wind deflector blades on it. They were extremely faded but a quick application of CarPro DLUX ceramic coating brought them back to life. They start dark for a long time and the coating is hydrophobic so helps stop dirt sticking.
This car also had some aftermarket Autoexe wiper wind deflector blades on it. They were extremely faded but a quick application of CarPro DLUX ceramic coating brought them back to life. They start dark for a long time and the coating is hydrophobic so helps stop dirt sticking.
1990 SW20 MR2 G-Limited (GEN4 3SGTE Installed)
2000 AE111R Corolla Wagon NZ New Daily
1996 AE101R Corolla Sprint NZ New Selling Soon
1990 EP81 Starlet XL (Sold)
1990 EE90 Corolla XL (Sold)
Instagram https://www.instagram.com/sw20glimited/
2000 AE111R Corolla Wagon NZ New Daily
1996 AE101R Corolla Sprint NZ New Selling Soon
1990 EP81 Starlet XL (Sold)
1990 EE90 Corolla XL (Sold)
Instagram https://www.instagram.com/sw20glimited/