Here's is a interesting one! Any ideas on this fault?? Video

[Benckj]

Yea, Jared is the guru of the NZ-MS world but doubt if he would have tune stored. Might be best if sometime down the track you get a laptop with TS installed and download the tune. This will allow something to work with and datalog engine vitals. Certainly helps with diagnoising faults like this along with knock control and VE + timing issues. If you ever install a wideband can input this directly to MS for auto tuning.

Onto your problem though- grounds are very important especially with running an EMS. When checking the wiring make sure there is a decent large conductor going from MS to the engine block and then onto chassis. If unsure run another as often the termination connection is where the problem occur.

[Gleshlich]

It's very easy to download the tune. If you're buying a cable and use Windows 10, make sure its compatible. PB-Tech have them pretty cheap. With the cable you can essentially retune the car. Make sure you have a backup saved before making any changes though

[Benckj]

If you're buying a cable and use Windows 10, make sure its compatible. PB-Tech have them pretty cheap.

Cable is easy as long as the laptop has a serial port (uses TX,RX and ground & BT if required). Not many laptops do so need a USB to serial converter and very few work without an issue. Need one with a FTDI chipset as sold through MS.

https://www.diyautotune.com/product/usb ... nerstudio/

[Gleshlich]

Cable is easy as long as the laptop has a serial port (uses TX,RX and ground & BT if required). Not many laptops do so need a USB to serial converter and very few work without an issue. Need one with a FTDI chipset as sold through MS.

https://www.diyautotune.com/product/usb ... nerstudio/

Have you got any experience with the Bluetooth adapters? What do you recommend for a rear mounted ECU for a tablet/phone in the cabin

[Benckj]

I've played a bit with BT connections and I would not recommend if you need continuous data stream. It's easy enough to run a serial cable into the cab and from there either use a serial -USB converter or BT node. If you go the BT way make sure you use the MS adapter and your tablet can act as a Host.

[Mr-Paulio]

So I changed the battery today. Because I pulled it out of the garage this morning then it didn't start again. After charging all night. I also checked all the large ground wires which are in good shape, and secured well from battery to body. And body to gearbox. Still no improvement.
But I have now temporary fixed the issue. Buy removing the bulbs!
It's only the cat, cooling fan, SC and charge lights anyway. And only the charge light works with the new ECU anyway. So I'll just keep an eye on the volt meter for a failed alternator. Should that ever happen.

Also just to confirm. There isn't​ a fault as such. Performance and everything is fine. It's just that the lights flashing on and off.
I probably didn't make that clear before

[mickeyduck]

Might be an idea to go for a 100km blat before doing Kaiaua Paul...? To be sure to be sure...

[Mr-Paulio]

Might be an idea to go for a 100km blat before doing Kaiaua Paul...? To be sure to be sure...

Yeah you are right. I really want a sticker!!
I've done plenty of smaller trips. I think if it was a major it would have happened by now. There are limited safety's hooked up to the megasquirt so I believe this is something to do with the factory wiring/harness etc not knowing what is going on
Or faulty. Although the other thing is it wasn't a problem initially. For the first 3 months of the install that is. And nothing has changed since??

[vrtigo]

Id put money on a dodgy earth.

[Jamie16]

Easy and fast way to check for crook earth, just grab your jumper cables and bang one onto the negative post of the battery and the other end on to a clean bolt/nut of a decent size. Try both from batt to engine and batt to body. Only takes a minute then you can cross dodgy earth off the list

[Benckj]

Easy and fast way to check for crook earth, just grab your jumper cables and bang one onto the negative post of the battery and the other end on to a clean bolt/nut of a decent size. Try both from batt to engine and batt to body. Only takes a minute then you can cross dodgy earth off the list

Just for clarity the trick doesn't really work with a SW20 as the ground wire which tends to go bad is located from trans to chassis. By trying your way this doesn't eliminate the return path unless you can extend the neg cable all the way to engine bay. May be fine for Aw11 as battery is often in engine bay.

[Mr-Paulio]

I still have no issues other than the lights flashing on/off. So I have not investigated this issue further as yet.... But maybe one day I'll get around to it. If it annoys me enough!