The long road to V6 turbo AW11

[Mr-Paulio]

Do you find the wall-mounted engine stand makes it easier to work on things Paul?

Wall mounted stand? Is that because of the timber underneath it looks like that?
Its a normal steel engine stand. I just have the sump removed and the timber fixed to the block either side for transporting it in the back of my ute. This protects the crank, and keeps the bottom surface flat so the engine doesn't tip over in transit.

[85AW20v]

Do you find the wall-mounted engine stand makes it easier to work on things Paul?

Wall mounted stand? Is that because of the timber underneath it looks like that?
Its a normal steel engine stand. I just have the sump removed and the timber fixed to the block either side for transporting it in the back of my ute. This protects the crank, and keeps the bottom surface flat so the engine doesn't tip over in transit.

I know what Charlie means!! I took a second look. It just looks like it could be wall mounted as your picture is sideways......

[Mr-Paulio]

I know what Charlie means!! I took a second look. It just looks like it could be wall mounted as your picture is sideways......

I'm not sure what happened there. And I think this has happened before with uploading some pictures. They are the right way up in my phone? And if you click on the picture it loads full screen the right way? Very odd!

[mickeyduck]

I know what Charlie means!! ...your picture is sideways......

That's the one.

My iPhone does the same thing Paul, sometimes they even come out upside down. The trick is to re-save the pics before posting them. I simply open them on my computer, make a tiny change like upping the sharpness or contrast by the tiniest amount (just enough to make the file "change" is all that's required) and then save the changes before uploading to the forum. That way your engine stand will always be a regular one on the workshop floor instead of a wall-mounted job.

[Mr-Paulio]

That way your engine stand will always be a regular one on the workshop floor instead of a wall-mounted job.

And finally I actually get the comment!

[85AW20v]

Seeing as it's Christmas and you've no doubt had other things on your mind, we'll give you some leeway on "finally actually getting the comment"!!

[Mr-Paulio]

I've hit a wall lately...
But finally got myself motivated for a few hours today to do this job I have been dreading!

Rear main seal....

I'm not sure why?
I guess it's just taking the engine off the stand and putting it back again.
Hopefully I am over the hump now anyway and can get some more done in my last week of holidays....

[Mr-Paulio]

While I wait for my friend to come visit and help me fab the turbo manifolds... I made a thing.

Something he can also weld for me....
Bugger paying $130NZD + freight from the states for a peice of steel! I made this of 6mm which is probably a bit over kill. But I had heaps left over from buying a full length for my mounts.
I'm lucky this mount hasn't torn out of the frame as it is with the V6. As it happens with the standard 145hp. And I will certainly need it for the turbo V6!

I also looked at mounting my heat exchanger for the water to air set up.

Not guna happen! I then considered in the back, or boot. But I really want a front mount. It will look nicer, I don't have to cut up the body, it will work better, and more weight transferred to the front. Also since I dont have heat or AC I can modify the stock heater hard lines for the water. So back to the drawing board!

[Mr-Paulio]

That's better!

[Mr-Paulio]

Sh!+$ getting a bit more serious now....

Out with the old

Man I love my hoist!!

In with the new... (soon)

Few more red bits on the new engine....

Flanges

Flanges cut for the turbo exhaust fab....

Whoops!!

I pulled the LH head off to see if it was obvious why the middle cylinder has real low compression. It wasn't, but this cylinder next to it may have been the cause of the smoke.... hmmm...
Once we have finished using this block for fab I'll tear down the bottom end and have a better look at the rings.

:( :(

I am also starting to come to terms with the fact that I will have to pay the moon beams people ask for, for a LSD E153 box. The open diff is going to struggle putting this power to the road. And I may as well start the hunt now. So if you can help, And you are not after all the moon beams. Hit me up!
Cheers

[mknz]

Buy a regular E153 and buy a diff. But I do have the stub to turn non LSD axles into LSD axles

[GDII]

Buy a regular E153 and buy a diff. But I do have the stub to turn non LSD axles into LSD axles

Yeah what Michael said. The OEM LSD is junk anyway. You are better off getting a TRD, CUSCO or KAAZ or even a Quaife ATB Helical. They do act different to the plate diffs, cost a bit more but never wear out or clunk.

[Mr-Paulio]

Buy a regular E153 and buy a diff. But I do have the stub to turn non LSD axles into LSD axles

Where have you seen just the diff for sale? (I have a E153 already, just open diff) The LSD diff only I've seen for sale were even more moon beams! (new)
Axle stubs is a whole nother drama! I think I can use the passenger side stub. But not the drivers as it's way too long. But I'll figure that out later.....

[Mr-Paulio]

Buy a regular E153 and buy a diff. But I do have the stub to turn non LSD axles into LSD axles

Yeah what Michael said. The OEM LSD is junk anyway. You are better off getting a TRD, CUSCO or KAAZ or even a Quaife ATB Helical. They do act different to the plate diffs, cost a bit more but never wear out or clunk.

Sounds good (depending on cost) Where do I look? I see some after market LSD's still use the non-LSD axles as well? This would be ideal for me as my axles are already hybrids to fit the E153 to AW11! Any idea what LSD's those are??

[GDII]

Buy a regular E153 and buy a diff. But I do have the stub to turn non LSD axles into LSD axles

Where have you seen just the diff for sale? (I have a E153 already, just open diff) The LSD diff only I've seen for sale were even more moon beams! (new)
Axle stubs is a whole nother drama! I think I can use the passenger side stub. But not the drivers as it's way too long. But I'll figure that out later.....

Used aftermarket LSDs don't seem to pop up for sale, even in Japan. Mostly new or a TRD in an E153 as a package. If you are going to the effort of wanting an LSD for this setup you don't really want to get the OEM unit. Once it gets hot it stops working, that's even if it even did anything when the gearbox is cold. It uses the gearbox oil as the viscous fluid, it's not a sealed unit like proper viscous LSDs. Better off getting a proper LSD and doing it right the first time. That way you can use the non-LSD axles and the blue speedo ring gear off the open diff and it will just work.

Buy a regular E153 and buy a diff. But I do have the stub to turn non LSD axles into LSD axles

Yeah what Michael said. The OEM LSD is junk anyway. You are better off getting a TRD, CUSCO or KAAZ or even a Quaife ATB Helical. They do act different to the plate diffs, cost a bit more but never wear out or clunk.

Sounds good (depending on cost) Where do I look? I see some after market LSD's still use the non-LSD axles as well? This would be ideal for me as my axles are already hybrids to fit the E153 to AW11! Any idea what LSD's those are??

Costs are usually $1100ish to $1300 plus install and other parts that need replaced if required.
Yahoo Japan has new but I'm sure places like Moonlight Racing, 41.co.nz, maybe trademe or other importers can get these for you. Or buy online.

TRD, only used but can still buy wear parts. Clutch type with 1, 1.5 and 2 way configurations.
CUSCO Type RS or MZ. Clutch type with 1, 1.5 and 2 way configurations.
KAAZ. Clutch type with 1.5 configuration.
Quaife. Helical sort of like the AE111 LSD. They work really well unless you lift a wheel. Then they act like an open diff. The way around this is to learn to tap the brake during a wheel lift event and it will lock the diff and work again.

1.5 way Best for the road and even track use. 2 way is too aggressive and will force the car to oversteer under deceleration. 1 way is good but only works under acceleration.