Boost Gauge Install

[thorns]

Has anyone found a good link to a step by step guide to installing a boost gauge?
I can find some old links scattered round google but a lot are missing the photos now as they are ancient threads so a wee bit incomplete for a beginner.

Really after a install guide for 'dummies' so to speak.

[mknz]

https://youtu.be/0-JieFM0MHA

It's tough starting off. But you'll need to learn how to learn about cars. Sorry to throw you off the deep end but the internet tutorials and the BGB aren't perfectly detailed so consider this your first experience.

[Alsw20]

A mechanical gauge is easiest. One vacuum tube from manifold to gauge, then splice into ground and positive wires that switch on with the headlights. Hardest part is running the vacuum tube from the dash to the manifold.

I can give you a hand if you need.

[thorns]

Have watched a few vids and have the general idea, was hoping for a MR2 walkthrough. Seems you need to remove half the interior panels to run the line through to front.

Thanks Al, might hit you up in the new year if I feel I am in over my head.

Is it worth going the full hog and spending money on a electornic one that is a boost controller as well, such as the GFB G Force controllers? A bit more work I imagine, but maybe worth it?

[Alsw20]

I personally don't think the expense of an electronic gauge is worth it. Besides you still have to run the wires from the boost source to the gauge.

This was my setup. Blitz 60mm mechanical boost gauge on top of the steering column cover, Blitz Dual SBC boost controller in the single din pocket. Both the gauge and the boost controller used the same vacuum hose. The solenoid in the engine bay had wiring to the boost controller to tell it when it turn on/off.

[thorns]

Found a youtube vid and it seems he tees into this connection here


But then also read somewhere that this is a better spot, its capped from the factory, but wont require any tees and a better spot. hard to see in photo, but on the right hand side of the intake plenum and pointing down toward the road

[Jabeo]

Both are valid places yes, but i found that one of the most commonly used places to plumb it in is by going to the turbo pressure sensor (stock boost gauge sensor/line ) this is found by the diagnostics plug and has a restrictor valve of sorts in the line. You can remove the valve and plumb in a tee fitting and then run a vacuum line from there to the dash. Best bet is to run the line from the dash first, under the plastic door sill, behind the speaker platic beside the seat and behind the fabric behind the seat. There is a rubber grommet there going into the firewall where you can push through the hose as much as you can. from there feel around the intercooler side of the firewall and pull the hose up and over the intercooler fixing it to the harness and running it to the tee. Trust me you will need a lot more hose than you might initially think on my thread here http://mr2.org.nz/forum/viewtopic.php?f ... 4&start=75 this is where i installed it and you will see some photos of what i mean, hope it helps. also you will get to retain whatever functionality the oem gauge has lol

[thorns]

Both are valid places yes, but i found that one of the most commonly used places to plumb it in is by going to the turbo pressure sensor (stock boost gauge sensor/line ) this is found by the diagnostics plug and has a restrictor valve of sorts in the line. You can remove the valve and plumb in a tee fitting and then run a vacuum line from there to the dash. Best bet is to run the line from the dash first, under the plastic door sill, behind the speaker platic beside the seat and behind the fabric behind the seat. There is a rubber grommet there going into the firewall where you can push through the hose as much as you can. from there feel around the intercooler side of the firewall and pull the hose up and over the intercooler fixing it to the harness and running it to the tee. Trust me you will need a lot more hose than you might initially think on my thread here http://mr2.org.nz/forum/viewtopic.php?f ... 4&start=75 this is where i installed it and you will see some photos of what i mean, hope it helps. also you will get to retain whatever functionality the oem gauge has lol

Thanks for this, will investigate further on running the lines that way. Where you have suggeste teeing in, would it be where it is shown in the first few seconds of this vidoe here?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ihT2JtF8Sj8

[mknz]

From experience selling them, the cheapies are accurate enough (within a psi) and the only error they normally have is an offset from 0. You can figure out how off it is by just looking at it when it's disconnected.

[Jabeo]

Thanks for this, will investigate further on running the lines that way. Where you have suggeste teeing in, would it be where it is shown in the first few seconds of this vidoe here?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ihT2JtF8Sj8

Yep literally right there, where that Tee is there is normally a white restrictor stock which im holding in one of my photos, i believe the valve is clipped into something. i just ran it from there because trying to adapt a small diameter hose to a port that big on the manifold and in that location was a little too annoying and fiddly to get at. plus it utilises the Oem line for the oem gauge too.

As for wiring you might find that there is a plug under the dash when you remove it that isnt connected to anything, which a few people have found. you can see it in my thread, but the plug has power going to it when the lights are turned on so you can tap into that plug if you dont want to find the headlight wiring as well

[thorns]

So that restrictor can be removed with no adverse affects? Or do you install it further down the line?

Got 90% of the puzzle I think worked out now, so now just the intimidating part of removing interior trim with breaking or cracking it.

[GDII]

That restrictor is a filter to stop crap getting into the MAP sensor. You wouldn't want it to be a restrictor for the boost signal, it would give false readings.

MAP sensors on the GEN2 3SGTE runs the OEM boost gauge (which is useless) and provides boost/fuel cut protection.

23265 in this diagram in image 2. FILTER GAS. NO.1
http://jp-carparts.com/toyota/partlist. ... 5&fig=1708

It's pretty typical for people to run the aftermarket boost gauge off this vacuum port like what Jabeo said. The port on the back of the manifold is quite large so getting the small vacuum hose onto it it a challenge.

[Alsw20]

That hose that goes from the BPS to the manifold I just used to remove. Then plumb the boost gauge/boost controller vacuum line into the now spare manifold port.

No fuel cut and a cleaner engine bay

[thorns]

That hose that goes from the BPS to the manifold I just used to remove. Then plumb the boost gauge/boost controller vacuum line into the now spare manifold port.

No fuel cut and a cleaner engine bay

is that the hose in the first pic i posted?

[Alsw20]

That hose that goes from the BPS to the manifold I just used to remove. Then plumb the boost gauge/boost controller vacuum line into the now spare manifold port.

No fuel cut and a cleaner engine bay

is that the hose in the first pic i posted?

No it's on the other side of the intake manifold. It comes out of the base of the boost pressure sensor and plumbs into the intake manifold (port not pictured) the vacuum line is only about 150mm long.