ANY and ALL 2K CUP advice.

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straulf
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Prime Mover: SW20
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ANY and ALL 2K CUP advice.

Post by straulf »

Hey guys I'm finally almost about ready to get my SW20 onto the track within the 2K cup series.
I just have a few questions if anyone has come across some good products to recommend?

What brake fluid should I use? I know obviously it need to be 'racing' high boiling point fluid, but is there any products people have used on the MR2's that have work nicely?

What about engine oil? Any good results with a certain viscosity and branding?
Brake pads front and rear?
And tyres branding and size? (195/55/r15 fronts, 205/50/r15 rears)

Thanks

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mickeyduck
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Re: ANY and ALL 2K CUP advice.

Post by mickeyduck »

If you're getting into the 2K cup you'll meet Shane and Hayden Geddes who have been into it for some time. They drive an SW. They will have plenty of good advice for you. Great guys too. Have a blast! :D
#8^) Charlie the certified Westie
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Financial Club Member since 2004 and thanks to *84vvt and co-conspirators, Life Member since April 2017 8)
100+ MR2OCNZ runs and counting... When going hard, good rubber's your best protection against unwanted accidents. Buy good tyres!
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thelinuxwarrior
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Prime Mover: SW20
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Re: ANY and ALL 2K CUP advice.

Post by thelinuxwarrior »

Only saw this post now.

Feel free to flick me a message if you want.

On our MR2 we run the following: (Its a gen 3 engine conversation for reference).

Penrite 10w40 - TenTenths Race oil (from Repco)
Brake pads - gen 3 brakes - endless front and back. Don't let others tell you rears arn't important. MR2 needs rear pads and will burn then at roughly 1/3 more than the front.
Tyres for 2kcup: Dunlop Star spec Z3s now. 195/55/r15s front, 205/50/15s rear. Don't go Toyos at the back (even if they are 225s) they are much harder than the Dunlops and 225 is too big on a 7inch rim for racing.
Camber you want at least -1.5degrees. Normally can be done by cracking the strut bolts loose and pushing the hub in.
You running a gen1 or gen3 rear cross member?
Gen 1 caster arms at the front - wind them all the way in for max caster.

Replace spark plugs, we just run the cheap BKR6E copper ones. (not platinum or anything fancy). We leave the gapping as is. Replace twice a season.


Having said the above, by far the most important aspect is arse to seat time :-)

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