Are brake caliper pistons still available?

[tw2]

Just thought I would post some part numbers for anyone looking for them, they were not the easiest to find.

Banjo bolts- same for front/rear 90401-10015
Brake line U shaped clips- 96991-10080
The small rubber seal on the front slider pins (bottom pin only, 1 per side, top pin doesn't have one) 47769-50010

The following *should* be the caliper bolts, four large, two small for the rear, four large, four small for the front. I will have to confirm when they arrive.
90119-12040
90105-08164
90119-08431
91619-B1225

[tw2]

Looking a bit better, thanks to CJ with the dremel and rust converting. I stupidly lost one of the brake pin seals but luckily Toyota have 8 in stock in NZ so 2 new ones should be ready for me to pick up tomorrow.

Does anyone know the torque of the parking brake crank? I can't find it in the BGB anywhere, I can see the bracket which holds the cable is 47Nm but not the crank itself.

[tw2]

I have bled the brakes twice on an sw20. The first time (years ago) I had a mushy pedal and got a garage to do it again. This time it stopped ok but again there was clearly still air in there despite putting 500mL of fluid through it and not seeing any more air coming out. I read some posts on mr2oc and took it for a drive around the block a couple of times. I then bled it again (another 500mL) and it was perfect. The theory is that the driving agitates the air to the top of the caliper. Someone suggested hitting the brakes with a hammer to achieve the same thing.... no thanks. You can safely do 12 full pedal compressions with the brake reservoir at or slightly above max before refilling and it shouldn't be below the low mark.

Anyway the car nose dives impressively on full braking now and with these pads there was no change in braking power after several goes of high speed braking in a row. I ended up using both packets of Toyota brake grease included with the rebuild kits just for the insides of the calipers, ie piston seal, a light coat on the base of the pistons when pushing it in and the handbrake mechanism took heaps of it- both the roller bearing and the end of the parking brake crank (there was plenty of old grease in there when it was disassembled). I used two packets of the bendix stuff to do the sliders, between pad and shim (yes the porterfield pads come with shims), between shims and piston/caliper and around all of the hardware that the pads slide through. No brake noise or squeaks at all which I am very happy about. Hopefully this can help someone.

[4CylinderSpecial]

Bloody good write up. Looking at doing mine in the future and have full Toyota seals, but no pistons. Might go ahead and pick some up.

[tw2]

Bloody good write up. Looking at doing mine in the future and have full Toyota seals, but no pistons. Might go ahead and pick some up.

Thanks. Have a look at parts master, super cheap and repco, might get lucky. Otherwise the ones I got from the UK were perfect just a bit more work on the rears required.

I would definitely have a good look at your bolts and order some in and mr2ben has the metal clips the pads sit in. I don't think Toyota has any of these things anymore.