Fixing my Oil leaks

[Jabeo]

So as i get ready for my WOF recheck tomorrow, i went under the car to check a few things such as my CV boot and some oil leaks that i had cleaned up. it looks me like the sump will need re sealing and perhaps something under the timing cover which i should expect from a car this old. There is some oil residue on the transmission where it is close to the sump, so maybe rear main or sump as well.

The photos below are things i have to install on the engine, most of the parts i already have on hand but are yet to put on. With this big list of stuff, i am inclined to drop the motor which im not opposed to as it will make things easier, Im thinking the main seals i should replace while the engine out that could be causing my leaks i can see are either front and rear main seal, oil pump seals or cam seals. Ive already done the rocker cover one earlier this year, and will reseal the sump.

however i am wanting to know the best way to source a full timing belt kit (water pump inclusive maybe? mines not leaking however) because im not sure you can get a complete kit from toyota or BNT? as well as a gasket kit, but after seeing the price of it im thinking i might have to get some seals individually. What are your thoughts on what to check/change based on my discoveries. Doesnt look like the dizzy is leaking either but if i have to ill change that as well

Part number for full engine gasket kit: 0411174400
part number for full top end gasket kit: 0411274400

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[ClanFever]

As a club member you can email Mark from Manawatu Toyota <[email protected]> and get a full Cambelt kit including any seals and other things you need. Let him know you are with the club and you will get very good prices. I always go OEM for Waterpump, Thermostat and Clutch as the Repco ones will normally do things to your car that breaks it... like leaking WP's or seizing shut Thermostats... fun times

[GDII]

My advice based on first hand experience is to do all the seals.

Buying a gasket kit may be cheaper however doesn't have all the seals so check first.
Toyota are my pick but up to you.

I would do, like I am about to do this weekend.
Cam seals x2
Oil pump shaft seal
Oil pump o ring, squiggly thing
Front main seal
Water pump (Genuine Toyota)
Water pump o ring and gasket
Thermostat (get Toyota genuine thermostat whatever you do.)
Thermostat o ring (they don't come with the thermostat)
Rear main seal
Distributor body o ring. Genuine one is really expensive (for an o ring) but I always have issues getting the right size from the repco/super cheap packs.

There is the oil cooler o ring and seal but they normally don't leak. Not that they won't.
The sump may or may not be leaking. Oil from the oil pump can leak down to the sump to block join and look like it.

While the engine is out it is so much easier to the cam belt kit too.
Belt
Tensioner
Tensioner pulley
Idler pulley

You car may have low kms but it's getting old. Rubber and plastic doesn't last that long.

[Benckj]

Certainly if you intend to install a new turbo, DP and timing kit then dropping the motor is recommended. Of course you can install without engine removal but it is rather difficult to access everything. Throw in a couple of other parts like clutch and rear main seal and its a no-brainer. I agree with the above advice on OEM water pump, thermostat and clutch with other parts sourced from a combination of OEM & aftermarket (Mark to price). On the seals its is best to get a full kit from Toyota (gen 3 pics below) and add a few that don't come with like oil pump O rings, oil cooler seals, etc. Mark was good enough to included these as well for no charge.

Keep in mind that everyones situation and parts list is different. Having garage, lift and unlimited timeframe to work makes all the difference. I'm more inclined to not try and fix something which isn't broke unless it would be absolutely impossible to do later.

[mknz]

I always go OEM for Waterpump, Thermostat and Clutch as the Repco ones will normally do things to your car that breaks it... like leaking WP's or seizing shut Thermostats... fun times

Thermostats - yes, Tridon is alright in a pinch, but not great
Water pump - If you don't get the Chinese brand then they'll give you GMB which is just as good as not better than Jap OE.
Clutch - Chinese brands are alright if you're out of money, but not great. The Exedy clutches are literally the exact same as what you'll get from Toyota, the Clutch Industries' are the same quality.

In saying that Repco's markup is so damn high that Mark @ Toyota will save you quite a bit. You can also go to NST.

[Jabeo]

Yeah thanks for that guys, sounds like i should be getting in touch with mark, ive worked with NST before and i find its pretty hit or miss depending on who you talk to. I already have an OEM thermostat and o ring so i think i will ask after a:

full gen 2 gasket kit
A cambelt kit/components
oil pump seals
water pump o ring and gasket

The annoying part is ive also just bought a full turbo gasket kit, would that end up being included in a gasket kit for the engine? *edit* after googling some images it doesnt look like its included

On the seals its is best to get a full kit from Toyota (gen 3 pics below) and add a few that don't come with like oil pump O rings, oil cooler seals, etc. Mark was good enough to included these as well for no charge.

That kit was for a full engine overhaul kit right? do you remember a rough estimate of cost if you dont mind me asking

[Benckj]

The gen 3 kit above was a tad over $200 from memory but wasn’t in stock so ex-japan. No extra for shipping but approx a 2 week wait.

[tw2]

I have had heaps of stuff through Damon at Hamilton Toyota. Always has the club discount included.

[Jabeo]

Ended up being quoted around $800 total for gasket kit, timing components, water pump kit, dizzy o ring, and oil pump seals

$400 for engine gasket kit and $200 for the 4 timing components pretty normal?

[GDII]

Ended up being quoted around $800 total for gasket kit, timing components, water pump kit, dizzy o ring, and oil pump seals

$400 for engine gasket kit and $200 for the 4 timing components pretty normal?

$400 sounds a bit more than it should however I have only had quotes on GEN3 and GEN4 3SGTE and that was quite a few years ago. Toyota have since adjusted pricing on all products.

$200 for the timing belt kit seems about right. I recall the GEN4 3SGTE rebuild kit was either $310 or $410 a few years back. It beats buying all the seals and gaskets separately. Head gasket alone is around $200.

Water pumps aren't cheap but the OEM one has a sealed unit that has the pump and backing so you won't get leaks like other aftermarket units that require you to take the front off. Plus the PH3 philips head screw on these pumps is near impossible to remove.

[Benckj]

Ended up being quoted around $800 total for gasket kit, timing components, water pump kit, dizzy o ring, and oil pump seals

$400 for engine gasket kit and $200 for the 4 timing components pretty normal?

Just looked at my spreadsheet with costs during my engine drop in 2014/15.
OEM Gen 3 engine seal kit incl; cam, oil pump & cooler oil seals= $295
OEM T-stat= $31
OEM water pump kit= $105
OEM Cam belt kit without belt= $150

[tw2]

It doesn't sound too unreasonable. It will set you up nicely in terms of long term maintenance for many years to come.

The $US sucks but I often mix and match between Toyota here and toyotapartsdeal. Sometimes there is a huge discrepancy in price just have to make sure you definitely have the right parts for your model as returns are often not worth it.

[4CylinderSpecial]

Not to threadjack but I'm looking at dropping engine to do a clutch/timing belt/HFH/Fuel pump job too. So might see how I get on with pricing being that mine's a gen 3. Sadly I will be using jackstands instead of a hoist so not really looking forward to this one

[GDII]

Not to threadjack but I'm looking at dropping engine to do a clutch/timing belt/HFH/Fuel pump job too. So might see how I get on with pricing being that mine's a gen 3. Sadly I will be using jackstands instead of a hoist so not really looking forward to this one

It's fun! Bring over/fly up a mate Dropping the engine is easier than trying to do it in the car. Trust me, I'm in the middle of it right now....
I would recommend finding/making some form of wheeled trolley to drag the engine and box out of under the car. Makes it way easier.

I found that lifting the rear of the car up with an engine crane from the side of the car using the side engine mount bolts rather than the rear with the tow hooks is way better. Plus putting the front wheels up on some 50mm timber boards helps too.

[Benckj]

Good points ^^^ with raising front wheels with 4x2 and dragging engine out from behind. I've simply lowered onto a piece of old carpet and dragged out with the help of a mate. This keeps the height down 150+ mm and is nice working from.

The height car must be raised depends on if you leave sub frame and wheels attached. I've done both ways and think its easier to drop the cross member and pull wheels off. This allows the engine & trans to be rotated over for more room. Having the engine hoist legs under car does restrict removal so be prepared for using alternative jacks.

On another note consider rebuilding the axle CV joints while out of car. This is worth doing but best import a HD kit from Stateside before you need it.