Need some engine removal tips please

[tw2]

I was hoping I could please get some advice / opinions. I have removed all of the easy things. I will remove the sub frame and drop the engine out the bottom.

1) I get the impression from the BGB that I need to disassemble the front engine mount to get the mess of clutch lines and slave off the transmission?

2) Does the speedo cable at the transmission just have a single clip and pull like it does behind the instument cluster?

3) What is the best way to get the axles and suspension apart? Do I try to remove the axle nuts or take the whole hubs off with them attached? Or just leave the hubs hanging from the strut towers and ease them out enough to get the axles out?

4) Anything worth doing with the transmission while it is out? I have new flywheel, clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing. I am pretty sure there is a leak from the axle seals (I have new ones). There is no crunching or shift issues but it is still 150,000km in. Is it worth pulling apart for inspection? Can it leak anywhere else?

[GDII]

I was hoping I could please get some advice / opinions. I have removed all of the easy things. I will remove the sub frame and drop the engine out the bottom.

1) I get the impression from the BGB that I need to disassemble the front engine mount to get the mess of clutch lines and slave off the transmission?

2) Does the speedo cable at the transmission just have a single clip and pull like it does behind the instument cluster?

3) What is the best way to get the axles and suspension apart? Do I try to remove the axle nuts or take the whole hubs off with them attached? Or just leave the hubs hanging from the strut towers and ease them out enough to get the axles out?

4) Anything worth doing with the transmission while it is out? I have new flywheel, clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing. I am pretty sure there is a leak from the axle seals (I have new ones). There is no crunching or shift issues but it is still 150,000km in. Is it worth pulling apart for inspection? Can it leak anywhere else?

1) If you don't want to bleed the clutch disassemble the front mount.

2)Unscrews of the speedo sensor.

3)If you can get the axles stubs out of the hubs then you can drop the subframe and front arms out buy unbolting the the ball joins off the bottom of the knuckles. Once the ball joint is off you can pull the knuckle and hub outwards and slide the axles out.

4)If it still shifts fine and isn't broken, leave it. 150k is nothing. Do axles seals if you want. It can only leak from the input shaft but I've not seen these leak before. Don't use a non OEM throw out bearing.

[Alsw20]

+1 on the genuine throw out bearing. Even quality aftermarket kits throw in heaps of shit throw out bearings to save money. You do not want to have to drop the box again to replace a $30 bearing.

[mknz]

Highly recommend NOT disconnecting the clutch cylinder, total PITA to bleed

[Benckj]

All good advice above. I'll add a couple of comments for consideration.

1/ Good time to replace motor mounts with poly inserts if so inclined.

2/ Speedo cable is straight forward.

3/ Best to break axle nuts before you raise car in air. They can be pulled from trans without removal and even left attached with hubs etc if you have enough room underneath to extract whole drive train. The car height starts to get ridiculas and managing all the components together is cumbersome.

4/ Definetly replace axle seals as they can get damaged when pulling axles out. Good time to replace trans fluid when its all done with fresh oil (whatever your preference). No need to crack open trans for internal inspection. Consider replacing the CV inner cages or at least inspecting and regrease along with boots. PITA to do afterwards.

On the clutch, the slave cylinder can be replaced with OEM or aftermarket part. From memory it was a very cheap part (<$30) which I sourced from BNT and installed a braided hose as well to remove weak link..

[4CylinderSpecial]

I found re bleeding slave to be easy as long as you bench bleed it first. and have the car somewhat level. YMMV.

[Benckj]

One of the tricks is to actually raise the RHS of car so its higher than left. This is opposite to how you access underneath. This helps remove the trapped air from slave without introducing more.

[tw2]

Thanks everyone. I changed the transmission fluid 20,000km ago but I chucked it out already and will order more redline shockproof.

The clutch arrangement looks way too complicated. I will just unbolt it for now but in the future I will get the single line kit with braided line to clean up the area.

I will put the impact on the axle nuts and see what happens. I think I am only a few slow hours away from needing the hoist which I should probably buy this weekend.

Tying the AC compressor out if the way looks challenging. I have new axle seals. I plan on getting new oem engine mounts from trademe. I will order a genuine throw out bearing. I was planning on using the one in the kit, mr2 heaven claim they are a good part but as you say, not worth the risk.

It is wise to put copper antiseize on the axle splines afterwards before installing back into the hubs?

[GDII]

Thanks everyone. I changed the transmission fluid 20,000km ago but I chucked it out already and will order more redline shockproof.

The clutch arrangement looks way too complicated. I will just unbolt it for now but in the future I will get the single line kit with braided line to clean up the area.

I will put the impact on the axle nuts and see what happens. I think I am only a few slow hours away from needing the hoist which I should probably buy this weekend.

Tying the AC compressor out if the way looks challenging. I have new axle seals. I plan on getting new oem engine mounts from trademe. I will order a genuine throw out bearing. I was planning on using the one in the kit, mr2 heaven claim they are a good part but as you say, not worth the risk.

It is wise to put copper antiseize on the axle splines afterwards before installing back into the hubs?

Clutch slave is only 2 bolts with 2 more on the mount. I've done it many times.

You need a good deep 30mm socket for the NA and 32mm for the turbo axles. You can use the hook end of the engine hoist on the breaker bar to crack the axle nuts if your impact doesn't work.

You can tie the AC compressor around the engine lid hinge to get it out of the way. Done it a few times on my car and other cars.

Definitely use antiseize on the outer axles splines. Makes it so much easier to get them out next time. They will just push out with your finger.

[*84vvt]

Park the car on car ramps
this gives you extra Hight , saves the front lip when raising the rear to remove engine .
and holds the car stable when working on it .

car ramps.jpg (138.12 KiB) Viewed 1249 times

[tw2]

Impact ripped the axle nuts off like they were nothing so that was very satisfying. Tomorrow we will find out if they will actually come out of the hubs.

[GDII]

If you wind the nut on until outer face is just near the end of the axle, whack it with a hammer. Even with the engine and suspension still in place they will move if they are going to.

[tw2]

Engine is out all brackets removed, heat shield removed with difficulty- one nut rounded, manifolds removed, harness off.

How did you guys get the axles out of the transmission? Is there a particular tool to get? I have tried a pry bar. They both move in and out about 8mm with ease but I assume there is some sort of C-clip in there.

[GDII]

Yip C clip. BGB says brass bar on the CV cup and hammer. That or a timber stake or block works. Hit it really hard!

[tw2]

Yip C clip. BGB says brass bar on the CV cup and hammer. That or a timber stake or block works. Hit it really hard!

Thanks Phill, I tied a few different bars with no success. Breaker bar wedged against the block and a hammer was the winner. I think that was my last difficult challenge that I am aware of anyway...