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In the shed: 91 MR2 G-Limited, 95 Subaru Impreza WRX
In the front of the shed: 95 Corolla
In the driveway: 00 Subaru Legacy Lancaster
In the rear view: 87 Honda Prelude, 94 Nissan Serena, 04 Swift
~ 4 Runs ~
Maybe not so dangerous after all. The grinder is for cutting the Aeroflow AN-6 Teflon with stainless steel braided fuel hose to length. I purchased 2m of it but only need about 730mm for my application. The rest will be used elsewhere later on.
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Installing the Aeroflow AN-6 full flow elbow (it looks better than the standard elbow but no extra gain).
1. Slide the backing nut over the hose
2. Insert the olive between the inside of the braid and outside of the Teflon hose
3. Push the hose end into the Teflon hose
4. Seat the hose end against the olive
5. Tighten up backing nut to ensure the olive seals the Teflon hose. Here it is just finger tight.
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The other end of the hose has a straight fitting to connect to the weld on fitting that will go onto the fuel pulse damper on the fuel rail. Don't forget to use some lubricant on the threads when tightening it up.
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The last few parts of the engine harness to complete is connecting the wires that the old E6 plug has to the GEN4 swap harness.
I've decided to use a 12 pin DTM plug for the majority of the 22AWG wires which will populate 11 pins. I need 13 pins to complete the harness so I am also using a 4 pin DT plug with large 16AWG terminals of which I'll populate 2 pins for power to the ECU
I've got an IWISS Deutsch connector crimping tool that goes from 12-26AWG so I can use the DTP, DT and DTM terminals. I think it will do HD too. So large to small.
For this DTM plug it uses small terminals so the red locator is used. Set the locator to the correct height and insert the terminal. Insert the wire into the terminal and crimp down.
I really like these Deutsch connectors and the crimp tool as they are easy to use and work really well in practice.
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Once the terminal is crimped to the wires you can insert them into the back of the seal and into the clips. Taking note of which number pin each wire has gone into.
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Slowly taming the mess at the ECU. 12 pin DTM connector populated to take on the E6 plug wires. This is due to no crimp-able socket for the standard MR2 plug. I'm never going back to stock so this is the best solution.
Insert each wire
Then place the orange locking insert
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Nice, quality work as always.
I hope you don’t need to depin any of the connectors as they aren’t fun to do. If you need the depinning tools they’re available on trade me but aliex have them for cheaper.
In the shed: 91 MR2 G-Limited, 95 Subaru Impreza WRX
In the front of the shed: 95 Corolla
In the driveway: 00 Subaru Legacy Lancaster
In the rear view: 87 Honda Prelude, 94 Nissan Serena, 04 Swift
~ 4 Runs ~
Nice, quality work as always.
I hope you don’t need to depin any of the connectors as they aren’t fun to do. If you need the depinning tools they’re available on trade me but aliex have them for cheaper.
I'm all over the depinning or various plugs. Wiring harnesses is what I do in my spare time. This is GEN4 3SGTE swap harness number 9. I did 8 for other people before I did my own.
To make the tachometer on a GEN4 3SGTE swap work you can either use an expensive tach adapter or you can swap the 43kOhm resistor on the tachometer circuit board with a 1kOhm resistor.
Tools you will need
A Philips head screwdriver
Soldering iron
Solder
1kOhm resistor
Optional: solder sucker or solder wick
1. Take the gauge out of the main cluster
2. Identify the resistor to swap
3. Not the tachometer signal input screw
Next post shows how to swap the resistor.
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See previous post for more information
The OEM tachometer that gets a high voltage signal from the MR2 igniter is 43k and the one to replace it with is 1kOhm.
1. Add some solder to the existing join to make it easier to remove the resistor.
2. Ensure the holes are clear of solder to make it easier to install the new one
3. Insert the new resistor. They are not polarity sensitive.
4. Solder the legs to the contacts on the board
5. Trim the legs and done
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