Purple People Eaters 3vz Conversion

[Logan]

Slow progress lately with the lead up to christmas, got 20l of industrial cleaner, so started cleaning down all the oil and carbon build up in the manifolds and heads. A few before pics:

The intake was completely caked with a thick layer of oil from the PCV valve.

In the main part of the manifold there is a nasty thick flat face on the air splitter so this will need to be machined down, as well as some other odd casting marks that cant be seen through the gunk in the photo.

The flow on this side of the manifold looks a little better, however there is still some strange marks on the individual runners as can be seen in the right hand side.

After cleaning the throttle body, there is a fairly sizeable ridge on either side of the butterfly that needs to be reduced and smoothed. The casting of this is also pretty rough inside with pitts everywhere.

[Logan]

Cleaned out a couple of runners on the lower manifold and decided to take some comparison shots while I was cleaning them up.

In order to do this I used a die grinder with carbide tip, a power drill, a piece of steel rod with a slot hacksawed in the end and some 80grit sandpaper slotted into the rod. The carbide burr could probably be used in a drill if you don't have a compressor handy.

Shot of three runners side by side. In the middle is as it was when pulled from the car. On the left is cleaned with cleaner and then hit briefly with 80grit sand paper. The one on the right has been hit with a carbide burr to remove all the nasty casting marks and then finished to an 80grit finish.

The standard manifold has lots of cast mark imperfections in it, these are easily seen when its been cleaned up a bit.

I just wanted to do this to show the difference and the general aim of this project. I will finish off each runner to probably approximately 140grit-200grit in the end.

[Logan]

Pulled heads and sump to find evidence that the motor has been rebuilt before (perhaps the previous owner was telling the truth), hone marks in the cylinders and marks on the conrods and caps. Standard sump is not baffled so currently designing a baffle to reduce surge and have ordered all the parts which are due tomorrow so hoping to get at very least the bottom end rebuilt this week and assembled. Then I will start attacking the heads.

[mickeyduck]

Hi Logan - on the intake side of things a bit of velocity (narrower ports) or a bit of turbulence (rougher ports) can actually help the fuel-air get mixed up better when ingested thereby boosting the power that results. This is something proven by way of many dyno results from race car engine development.

Highly polished intake ports can result in lessened power because the reduced turbulence means the fuel-air is mixed less effectively. Just as small ports can make for more turbulence on entry to the head because the gasses are hoofing it (narrower = faster for a given volume of gas) thereby resulting in better mixing from increased swirl in the cylinder. Even though logic would suggest smooth and bigger ports would deliver better flow and better flow suggests more power, flow is only part of it - efficient mixing is the more important thing. Consider the benefits of well measured computer controlled fuel injection over the approximations of carburetted fuel-air mix if you doubt this. Better power and better fuel economy. Why else have all them bloody sensors? Anyway mate just something to consider...

Eliminating major flow restrictions such as obstacles or sharp bends does help an engine, but getting a high polish on the inside of intake ports can actually lose you power and cost you fuel.

I took my old HR Holden from its factory 19 seconds to 100kmh to 6 seconds by working the motor myself, porting the head by hand etc. Mind you I'm more than happy to confess to being a complete amateur. I just try to follow the advice of them that know, and those are among the pointers I was told.

Look forward to seeing you and Gen and the Purple People Eater back out on a run mate. Enjoy your project!

[Logan]

I'm simply following what others have done in the US and it has proven gains, if it was a G head I probably wouldn't bother but the F heads are already very restrictive by design + its a great learning process.
On a side note have gotten all the rebuild bits and will take a picture of these when I get home. Pistons are out and ready for cleaning, new rings/bearings etc

[Logan]

Lots of progress today. Got stuck into the bottom end and replaced everything. Pictures:

Rebuild goodies.

Cams waiting in order for the heads to be finished.

Mains girdle sitting with new bearings in.

The guts of the engine with new shiny bits.

Basic sump baffle all ready to go.

Bottom end all back together with new crank oil seals on the end to boot.

Sump on the block ready to be bolted down then the engine can be flipped for assembly.

[EssDub]

YUCK. GMB Water pump...

Couldn't you go a few dollars more expensive and get the proper OEM Toyota pump?

[Logan]

Meh, what difference does it make? As long as it runs at temperature. Not likely that its going to go in the near future and if it does then ill put another one in...no biggie

[EssDub]

MR2ROX had one of those pumps... lasted around 12000kms from memory. Seen heaps die around the water line seals, don't know if its just their quality control failing or what... still shady...

On another note... Who would have thought the 3VZ would have a crank girdle, yet the 1MZ doesn't! Thats an interesting design... More ammo to the arguement that the 3VZ was originally designed to take a lot more power than other 6-pot motors...

[Logan]

Yeah Im impressed with the bottom end design.

The 3vz water pump assembly is much more simple than the 3s, only one seal which is direct to the block, compared to the 3s which has two housings and 4 or 5 seals/o-rings from memory. So less things to fail, unless you are talking about the impeller of course.

[born disturbed]

Ahhh so thats where all those rebuild parts were going, I hope Nick gave you a mean deal for them

GMB pumps are awesome, I have been selling them for years & only ever seen them spit the dummy if the rest of the system wasnt properly cared for. I run them in all my cars & the warranty always holds up anyway, be assured they are great quality.

This project is looking the goods mate, im the other git behind the counter, come say hi some time.

Cheers
Jared

[Logan]

Oh yeah I recognise the name now. Yeah Nick treated me well and good to hear you back the parts you sell by using them in your own vehicles!

[Sketchy]

there is another problem with most ot the non oem water pumps:(

the impeller design does not work quite as well as the genuine article. so when left standing for a while, at idle will not flow as well., and with the weakness of the 3vz being the cooling system/head gaskets, is it worth it while its apart?.

as the volume of water it needs to move in a camry is a few litres less than a 2....

I take it you have a mount sorted already? got plate to make some and a "jig" in my shed.....

[Logan]

Not goign to make up mount till engines in car, have a nolathane Bush and appropriate piping to remake that when the time comes.

[Logan]

Picked up new heavy duty clutch today and picking up flywheel tomorrow. Nearly finished porting one head but struggling to find time as I have been working overtime for the last month to get a job through, hopefully the engine will be ready to pop in soon.