Grrrrrrr!'s Sw20 Tracktoy

[Grrrrrrr!]

Since the last update i've fitted up the whiteline bars, endlinks and done a grasskhana in it. Earlier today I finally got round to fitting the 1 inch master cylinder, certainly a noticable difference, but pedal is still not rock solid like I would prefer. Time to hunt out a master cylinder stopper.
Also need to figure out why its always the right front wheel that locks first. 4/4 lockups while testing the brakes today were the right front. All in straight lines so its not like its unloaded in a turn or something. And all four calipers are freshly rebuilt, so shouldn't be caliper related.

[born disturbed]

I used to have that issue in my old race car, put it down to the front right being the shortest distance from the BMC as we never could get it to even up enough, BMC stopper will help a reasonable amount with the feel.

[*84vvt]

I have the same problem with my AW Passenger front locks up before the drivers
on the brake test @ WOF time it reads the same both sides .

[Sinturion]

Bad proportioning valves maybe? or just needs a really good bleed?

[Grrrrrrr!]

Shouldnt be prop valve, they dont do anything to the front brake circuit, and air in the circuit should just make the pedal mushy.. plus it had just been bled with new fluid when i changed the master cylinder.

[Benckj]

Doesn't the proportioning valve set the bias between front and back brake pressure? I seem to recall lines leading off valve to both front and back. Operation should be confirmed on the rollers when they did WOF.

[Grrrrrrr!]

No, a proportioning valve limits the pressure increase to the rear brakes after a certain pressure is reached. The front brakes always have full pressure, and in non-ABS sw20s the brakes are front/rear split, not diagonal like many cars.

[lifes675]

the brake line to the rh brake is the shortest distance from the master cylinder on non-abs cars they loop the hose a couple for times to make the distance come close you may need to remake the pipe i have done this to my last mr2 and it stopped the problem

[Benckj]

I understand. The MC line comes into valve but fronts come off on top where as rears on bottom after reduction. Side shot pics below of the valve + ABS unit when I first got my car.

[Grrrrrrr!]

Yeah, i dont really understand why they route the front circuit to the prop valve, its not needed as far as I can tell...


Anywho... todays footnote is I kicked off the order of a new turbo so should have one of these in a month or so.


Its a TD05 with an 18G billet compressor wheel. good for around 400hp and should spool almost as well as a CT26.

[Wayne]

Ive seen these pull over 300kw @ the wheelswith full boost by 3500 rpm
Its going to be a weapon !

[Grrrrrrr!]

Its been an expensive month for me.. damn you cars

The turbo in that pic up above is sitting at a mates house in Oz, waiting for me to pick it up..


This is sitting on my desk here at home..



St162 sidefeed manifold to suit a gen2 head, just need to sort out a throttle for it.


and the nice seller is dropping this off tomorrow night

Gen4 or 5 3sgte with a spum bearing..

But i have a spare crank from the shortblock I bought.. the one that had this in it..


So the plan is the sump and gen3 oil pump off the shortblock gets put on the gen2 block and that motor is ready to go in once I get the rocker cover back.
The gen3 crank, rods and new ARP rod bolts go into the gen 4 bottom end, once i figure out what the deal with pistons is.. (cant get gen3 low comp pistons new from toyota) I can either run the gen4 high comp pistons (assuming the pistons and block are in good nick), or get the block bored to 86.5 and get aftermarket pistons at some horrendous price. Gen 4 motor will need a loom made up, so i'll go cut some plugs off a loom at pick-a-part sometime and begin making that up.

Plans are to drive it till some breaks, fix it, then repeat. No plans to do any engine work until the one in there goes pop, so will mainly look at brakes and suspension, oh, and a bigger GT wing than Mr Henderson

[JasonFriday13]

and the nice seller is dropping this off tomorrow night

Gen4 or 5 3sgte with a spum bearing..

I wondered where that went, I was tempted to buy that as a spare engine . Also there's a guy in Timaru selling a fuel rail and 540cc top feeds for $150, plus an ecu and loom separately.

[Grrrrrrr!]

Yeah, I thought about it for a while, it sorta depleted my savings account more than i was comfortable with, but it was such a good deal. hopefully it is a good block and head. couldn't care less if the crank and rods are history, the gen 3 ones will go in there since they looked fine.

Apparently it spun a bearing while being backed off the trailer.. so either it had no oil, or somebody left the oil pickup gasket off and it was sucking air. Either way it has a brand new gen3 water pump and looks clean externally. I beleive the gen3 na head has a compatible fuel rail, so I might grab one from pick-a-part for $30 this weekend, not sure 540cc injectors will be that useful to me.

Watch this space for a teardown report, probably tomorrow night.

[JasonFriday13]

I beleive the gen3 na head has a compatible fuel rail

Yes I believe so too, I have a spare gen 3 NA rail for that exact purpose . You getting aftermarket injectors?