Grrrrrrr!'s Sw20 Tracktoy

[85AW20v]

I used sugar (easier to get hold of, and washes out in warm water leaving no abrasive particles to end up in bad places.) blah blah

That was probably your problem. Sugar crushes too easily. Sand is much harder so takes the crush pressure. Once you get it moving, dry sand should be easy enough to remove and flush out.

[Grrrrrrr!]

Head is on, turbo is loosely bolted in place, have to sort out some hoses that aren't rediculously the wrong length and way too skinny to supply oil and coolant to the turbo. Also need to sort out heat shielding between the compressor outlet and the exhaust runner if I don't want to be cooking silicone hoses every other event. Wastegate actuator hits the snail since I rotated the compressor housing to clear the exhaust runner, so will need to laser cut a new actuator mount that sits it 15mm or so further out.

Fuel rail mounting problem is sorted, so just need to get the injectors tested and the correct deadtime data for the link.

[Reuban]

looks fantastic Lee!! did you end up going the 5sfe fuel rail?

[Grrrrrrr!]

yeah, its the 5sfe/3fse fuel rail. I need to order the adapter for it, and find a fuel tank top plate to do the fuel lines when i drop the tank. Going for a DW300 pump if the current pump fails the flow test i have in mind for it. Should keep even the 1600cc injectors well supplied.

[Wayne]

looking good bro !

[Grrrrrrr!]

So in the last few weeks I finally got round to fitting the shifter cables with the spherical polymer bearings shown below and a needle roller to replace the worn square bush. Also stripped and relubed the shift lever in cabin.




Shifting is a little nicer, but still feels like a John Deere after driving the Honda. I'm putting it down to the box having been beaten on for years and probably having bent shift forks... and being an E153 of course.

So I've sourced an E56, which is a FWD E series box, with thinner lighter gears, and the same synchros as the gen3 gearbox, so should shift better than any E153, and it is more than strong enough for 400 hp. So I need to fit the selector mechanism from my spare e153, or pay MRP to do it and give the synchros a bit of a tickle up at the same time.


It has slightly lower gearing than an E153, which works for me, and if I find the right donor box, I can fit a 4.5 or 4.9 diff ratio for even lower gearing for track work.

[TVIS]

Does the E56 use the same sized axles? Is it a bolt on affair? Looks like a sweet upgrade

[Grrrrrrr!]

Yep, E153 LSD axles drop straight in (only the LSD axles), this is the gearbox the Americans use for many of their gen4 conversions.

[JasonFriday13]

I wonder if the center section with the shift fork is swappable between E153 and E56? If so, that would make it a mad bolt in option.

[Grrrrrrr!]

Unlikely, one gearbox is 35mm shorter than the other. And if you have an E153 handy it's probably easier to drill one hole and swap the selector and brackets over than disassemble half a gearbox.

[Grrrrrrr!]

Did some work on converting the e56 to RWD today. Stripped the shifter mechanism out and had a nosey, need to turn up a drill bush to centre a long series drill and drill out the end of the housing, a simple job to do. Then I need to fit an oil seal to stop oil escaping, the proper way would be to bore the hole to correct size and press it in. The hack way is to drill the hole for clearance, install the shaft, slip the seal and and goo it into place with silicon or similar...

Very tempted to just glue on a $5 shaft seal and forget the dust boot after getting prices from Toyota for genuine parts. They want $52 for the dust boot, and $17 for the oil seal, luckily I dont need the bearing.. for $64 (or $10 from saeco).. Looking online US dealers sell the boot for $17 and the seal for $4.60. Might have to get Mr Shiny to buy them for me!

[Grrrrrrr!]

Ordered and paid for a bunch of Toyota Genuine Parts from Amayama. Sooo much cheaper than going thru toyota NZ. But I shouldn't need to buy oil filters for a year or two.
Also ordered a big-ass w2a intercooler to pick up in Oz later this month.

Contacted Prime to see if they could tell me what diameter to machine for the seal for the shifter shaft, got a load of BS back about it being precision machining and they wouldn't be able to describe how to do it in an email yada yada.. Muppets, it can be described in one sentence. Guess I have to wait till the seal arrives and I can measure it.

Getting on with drawing up the wiring diagram for the ECU and related bits tonight, and have a few parts to draw up for laser cutting tomorrow if I get out of bed and find a dry spell to measure up a few things on the car.

[Wayne]

lol @ prime .. honestly there muppets

[Grrrrrrr!]

So after not working on the car for ages , I finally got motivated and did something. I pulled apart the AUDM gen3 NA cluster and my JDM Gen2 turbo cluster and swapped bits around till I had what i wanted, 260kph speedo, and a voltage gauge instead of the useless boost gauge. Previous attempt at swapping the whole AUDM cluster into the car had failed, the pinouts for the clusters must be very different since none of the correct lights came on at the right time. Left indicator made right light flash, right light flashed the oil pressure light type thing.

So after removing all the bulbs from both units I undid all the screws and pulled the flexible circuit boards off and compared them, and the layout of the idiot lights. Idiot lights on the left side of the cluster are a bit shuffled about so putting the turbo membrane on the NA cluster wouldn't work, unless i wanted the PS light to be my handbrake light etc. So I had to swap the gauges into the turbo cluster and figure out what I needed to change to get the voltage signal to the voltage gauge

Turns out all you need to do to swap the voltage gauge into the turbo cluster is undo 4 screws, separate the unit by pressing the 8 black tabs inwards and pulling gently, and then swap the voltage gauge for the turbo gauge, make a short jumper wire with two of the small ring terminals and put three of those screws you removed back in. (one you throw away so you don't short the MAP sensor output to ground)

[Grrrrrrr!]

So time has passed, not much of anything has happened with the car, but I have bought a house, but it has no garage.. so the car, and my collection of bits for it needs a new home. I'd prefer a club member buys it, because if it doesn't sell it will leave here and go the the scrap yard.