Grrrrrrr!'s Sw20 Tracktoy

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Reuban
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Re: Grrrrrrr!'s Sw20 Tracktoy

Post by Reuban »

hey man. Where are you getting the new plugs from??

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Re: Grrrrrrr!'s Sw20 Tracktoy

Post by Grrrrrrr! »

Gen 2 GT trackcar: Used and Abused, now getting some TLC.
CL7 Euro R, the fun begins at 6000 rpm

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Re: Grrrrrrr!'s Sw20 Tracktoy

Post by Reuban »

man and i paid $70 for the ecu plug (no pins) from link!! %$#%^#$&*^(&&)^(*&&^%**&^)(*^(*&^&*!!!!!!

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Re: Grrrrrrr!'s Sw20 Tracktoy

Post by Grrrrrrr! »

Ouch!
Gen 2 GT trackcar: Used and Abused, now getting some TLC.
CL7 Euro R, the fun begins at 6000 rpm

Wayne
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Re: Grrrrrrr!'s Sw20 Tracktoy

Post by Wayne »

i paid 32.66 from link ... lololol

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Re: Grrrrrrr!'s Sw20 Tracktoy

Post by Grrrrrrr! »

I've been slack in updating this, mostly because there is nothing much to show visually. Head has been assembled, valve clearances sorted, injector mounts made, but look like they need modifying to clear the valve cover dammit.
Picked up $300 worth of DTM connectors while in Oz, and have a 260kph speedo waiting to be picked up in Brisbane. Also purchased some copper tube to attempt to fabricate a large capacity full flow oil->water cooler. All going to plan I should have the head on the block this weekend, and get the wire and other connectors I need on order tonight. Still sorting out how I am going to upgrade the fuel system, if anybody in Auckland is wrecking a sw20 Im after the fuel tank access hatch and piping to use as templates.

My attempts to see if I could make a heat exchanger core.. much fail, so bent.
Image
top two are 6mm tube, bottom one is 9.5 (3/8ths) tube. The 6mm tube i can bend into a nice tight package, the one in the middle was wound round 1" pipe without too much effort or crushing, but it'll never flow the full engine oil flow with acceptable pressure drops, where as the 9.5mm would probably be adequate once the oil had warmed up a little, 12mm would be better, but zero chance of getting coiled tightly enough. I wanted to get the 9.5 mm tube coiled as tight as the 6mm to keep space taken to a minimum, but even the old sand bending trick didn't work it crushed significantly bending round the 30mm or so pipe I tried to form it around, and any dents in the tube just collapsed and kinked as you can see.

Its going to be a different design instead which will flow the full oil and water flows without any pressure drops on the oil, and hopefully very little flow restriction on the coolant side. Just going to be a bit bulkier, but should be plenty of room attached to the firewall between the cabin and the engine.
Gen 2 GT trackcar: Used and Abused, now getting some TLC.
CL7 Euro R, the fun begins at 6000 rpm

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Re: Grrrrrrr!'s Sw20 Tracktoy

Post by Benckj »

I tried to make a similiar heat exchanger for my mother-in-laws hot water tank in house. Wanted to pull some energy off after wet-back got tank upto 95C to warm bathroom. Used a plumbers spring to insert in pipe when bending to keep from collapsing. Couldn't get the tight radius I wanted and after coiling couldn't pull spring out! Ended up destroying project to remove spring and its still sitting in a box 10 yrs later.

If you wanted to make HE oil cooler out of copper why not use 2x 25mm dia pipes with several 12mm cross connectors like a radiator. Could even curve the whole unit to collect more air flow.
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Re: Grrrrrrr!'s Sw20 Tracktoy

Post by Grrrrrrr! »

Airflow is irrelephant in a oil/water heat exchanger Jim.
Gen 2 GT trackcar: Used and Abused, now getting some TLC.
CL7 Euro R, the fun begins at 6000 rpm

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Re: Grrrrrrr!'s Sw20 Tracktoy

Post by Benckj »

So this would be installed in sump and water piped through? Not sure if I follow your design.
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Re: Grrrrrrr!'s Sw20 Tracktoy

Post by Grrrrrrr! »

No, mounted on the firewall, oil inside the copper, coolant outside. Does exactly the same as the standard oil cooler, except with a lot more capacity and heat transfer.
Gen 2 GT trackcar: Used and Abused, now getting some TLC.
CL7 Euro R, the fun begins at 6000 rpm

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Re: Grrrrrrr!'s Sw20 Tracktoy

Post by 85AW20v »

The only reason that the sand bending trick didn't work was because the sand wasn't packed in tight enough. You almost have to ram it in to make it work on diameters that small. And it must be dry otherwise it sticks together and leaves holes, one of which you found where it kinked. You might even need to put in in the oven on a low heat for while at this time of the year to dry it.

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Re: Grrrrrrr!'s Sw20 Tracktoy

Post by Grrrrrrr! »

I used sugar (easier to get hold of, and washes out in warm water leaving no abrasive particles to end up in bad places.) and I had packed it in as tight as I could. crimped one end of the tube, poured sugar in, inserted long bolt into top of tube, bash with hammer till head flush with top of tube, then repeat. The copper tube wasn't pristine, already had a few slight dents in it.
Gen 2 GT trackcar: Used and Abused, now getting some TLC.
CL7 Euro R, the fun begins at 6000 rpm

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Re: Grrrrrrr!'s Sw20 Tracktoy

Post by JasonFriday13 »

Grrrrrrr! wrote:Airflow is irrelephant in a oil/water heat exchanger Jim.
Correct. Just like boiling a pot of water. Are you going for a steam locomotive boiler design, or something a bit simpler?
Jason Ross, current cars:
Project: 1990 SW20 GT, 1992+ brake swap, 1992+ subframe swap, 1996 Celica turbo engine swap, 1996 MR2 LSD gearbox swap, Caldina Turbo coil-on-plug ignition, Link G4 Storm, 161kw @ 10psi.
Daily: 2004 Toyota Vitz RS, 1.5L, 5sp
Tow rig: 2009 Camry, 2.4L, auto
Scrapped: 1989 SW20 GT, 1992 SW20 G-Limited, ex EssDub car, donor, 1997 Toyota Tercel 3dr hatch, front crash, 1990 SW20, G-Limited, ex EssDub car, roll crashed, donor
Sold: 1987 AW11 Supercharged, 1991 SW20 G-Limited, ex EssDub car

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Re: Grrrrrrr!'s Sw20 Tracktoy

Post by Grrrrrrr! »

Basically just a single pass shell and tube exchanger. Just need to practice my brazing and get some laser cutting done for the baffles and end plates.
Gen 2 GT trackcar: Used and Abused, now getting some TLC.
CL7 Euro R, the fun begins at 6000 rpm

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Re: Grrrrrrr!'s Sw20 Tracktoy

Post by *84vvt »

Grrrrrrr! wrote:Basically just a single pass shell and tube exchanger. Just need to practice my brazing and get some laser cutting done for the baffles and end plates.
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