my new aw11

[85AW20v]

If you make the original front swaybar adjustable by welding a 20 x 4mm x 150mm long tag along the top edge with holes drilled every 15mm or so, you'll end up with the same effect as putting on a thicker bar. Make sure the tags are welded on with the right welding rods as the bars have a high carbon content. It's much easier to move the links a hole or two than swapping the whole bar out. You can do the same with the standard rear 10mm bar too.

Interesting that you went back to the standard rear bar Charlie - I did think the SW one would be a bit of overkill especially when you're starting to push the limits....

[lifes675]

I’ve found a white line sway bar that’s 20mm the cost is about $300 and they have an 18mm rear one for about the same price. I was going to have a look at the sw20 front swaybar and see if I can make it fit as the 18mm well over powers the aw11 17mm one but it stop's the arse wiggle when going around a corner and stops the lh wheel turning into a jack hammer when pulling off from a hard left turn

[Statek]

...and stops the lh wheel turning into a jack hammer when pulling off from a hard left turn

Ooooh, is that what it is? I keep checking my bushes and thought maybe my shock was buggered.
/addtolist Rear Swaybar

[mickeyduck]

If you make the original front swaybar adjustable by welding a 20 x 4mm x 150mm long tag along the top edge with holes drilled every 15mm or so, you'll end up with the same effect as putting on a thicker bar. Make sure the tags are welded on with the right welding rods as the bars have a high carbon content. It's much easier to move the links a hole or two than swapping the whole bar out. You can do the same with the standard rear 10mm bar too.

Must make up a set of these one day. Very good suggestion Simon, allows for complete fine tuning of them.

[Malcolm]

If you make the original front swaybar adjustable by welding a 20 x 4mm x 150mm long tag along the top edge with holes drilled every 15mm or so, you'll end up with the same effect as putting on a thicker bar. Make sure the tags are welded on with the right welding rods as the bars have a high carbon content.

I've thought about doing this, do you have any info on what the right filler wire would be? I've welded spring steel before using regular mild-steel filler and just had it re-heat-treated afterwards, but would be nice to avoid doing that with something the size of an MR2 ARB

[lifes675]

I’ve now found the rims i want im going to go with mrs rims . And have them painted black and i have a set of tyre sensors to fit as the ones i have do the tyre temp and as their 15"rim good tyres are more common

[Statek]

im going to go with mrs rims .

Good choice

[85AW20v]

I've thought about doing this, do you have any info on what the right filler wire would be? I've welded spring steel before using regular mild-steel filler and just had it re-heat-treated afterwards, but would be nice to avoid doing that with something the size of an MR2 ARB

Don't know but I'll talk to the guy who gave me the rods. It wasn't wire - it was done with a stick welder a wee while ago now.

[lifes675]

ok part one of upgrading the brakes is under way. i have ae101(1993- corolla) twin pot callipers and face lift sw20 rear callipers from pick a part in the dam rain (makes every thing harder to remove). im going to start stripping the callipers this weekend so i can fit new seals in to them and give them a good clean and paint ill try to take some photo's as im pulling them apart.

[85AW20v]

I've thought about doing this, do you have any info on what the right filler wire would be? I've welded spring steel before using regular mild-steel filler and just had it re-heat-treated afterwards, but would be nice to avoid doing that with something the size of an MR2 ARB

Don't know but I'll talk to the guy who gave me the rods. It wasn't wire - it was done with a stick welder a wee while ago now.

Just talked to "the guy" and he has said the rods to use are MG600 as they will cope wth the very high carbon content steel used in swaybars. I've run out of adjustment on the front one now but I've also got rid of pretty much all the oversteer I had. Just need to start driving it harder to see if there's any oversteer left.

[lifes675]

Ok new update after 6 months of leaking the heater core finely gave way in a great way empting the content of the coolant system on to the passenger side floor thank god I have a spear one, so this week’s job is pull the dash out before the meet and swap the core

[CJ]

Bigger sway bar for the front... let me know if you find one, I've never heard of one but if you do find one I want one too. I've gone back to the standard AW 10mm rear bar so I don't step the back out but if I could find a heavier front one heck yes cos it'd ride a lot flatter with less of that AW rear steering geometry shift under roll.

http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_det ... ber=BTF20Z From BNT. Ive been chasing them, the paperwork is still in the inbox, but ring Dylan and ask for a price.

[lifes675]

ok I’ve got the new heater core in and working and in the process I found that the output heater hose was blocked so I traced it back to on top of the thermostat housing and I found the thermostat to be blocked so I decided to fit a new thermostat and for some strange resin the high flow one is $5 cheaper than the stranded one so I thought I would go with the hi flow one as it will help keep the car cool when I go for a long run .
here’s a pic of the two thermostats

ok on Sunday I went for a drive to the petrol station to fill the car up for next week and on my way there the charge light came on along with the batt light so I filled up the car and went to start it and nothing happened so I called my mate with a jump pack and a spare battery just in case. we tried to start the car on the jump pack and nothing but a splutter then die so we swapped the battery’s and went on are way home with the lights on the dash, when we got home the spare was flat as well so that only points to one thing the alternator so I got the car started and tested and I got 0.2 amp so its now time for a new alternator

[Statek]

That's a very unfortunate and sudden failure
Hope you get it sorted in time for the run!

[lifes675]

i got the new alternater in last night and all looks ok im going to test it this weekend before the run to make sure all is ok