Mickeyduck's machines

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Re: Mickeyduck's machines

Post by Benckj »

With the boot basically full of intercooler I want to figure out how to carry enough luggage for two people to do a month-long road trip around NZ.
Exactly, the quandrum, which is why I kept the boot and frunk more or less free. I use the car for vacation junts that must include the wife’s shoes and clothes. After the ‘essentials’ I can load up tools, laptop and spares. Following that I might get a spare change of grundies and maybe a couple of beers to enjoy on our arrival.

Look at the bright side, no room for a shopping spree and it’s better than being a bike s you have a roof and heater at your disposal.
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mickeyduck
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Re: Mickeyduck's machines

Post by mickeyduck »

Benckj wrote:
Sat Sep 05, 2020 6:57 pm
Look at the bright side... it’s better than being a bike
Yep cos you can go around corners WAY faster in an MR2. :mrgreen:
#8^) Charlie the certified Westie
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When you're nearing the end of the drag-strip and you have no 'chute, you may as well keep your foot to the floor... Live life. There ain't no second pass. :twisted:

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Re: Mickeyduck's machines

Post by Swampy »

mickeyduck wrote:
Sun Sep 06, 2020 12:06 am
Benckj wrote:
Sat Sep 05, 2020 6:57 pm
Look at the bright side... it’s better than being a bike
Yep cos you can go around corners WAY faster in an MR2. :mrgreen:
You proved that on a few runs Charlie. Poor bikies! :evil:
In the shed: 91 MR2 G-Limited, 95 Subaru Impreza WRX
In the front of the shed: 95 Corolla
In the driveway: 00 Subaru Legacy Lancaster
In the rear view: 87 Honda Prelude, 94 Nissan Serena, 04 Swift
~ 4 Runs ~

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Re: Mickeyduck's machines

Post by mickeyduck »

Swampy wrote:
Sun Sep 06, 2020 6:57 am
mickeyduck wrote:
Sun Sep 06, 2020 12:06 am
Benckj wrote:
Sat Sep 05, 2020 6:57 pm
Look at the bright side... it’s better than being a bike
Yep cos you can go around corners WAY faster in an MR2. :mrgreen:
You proved that on a few runs Charlie. Poor bikies! :evil:
Yep the AW is surely an AWesome little beastie James!

Time for a little update. I made the new urethane inserts for the AW's engine mounts back in March. Finally got around to putting them in.

A little recap of the process...

Making the AW's urethane engine mount inserts:

Image
Image

Cutting the old rubber out:
DSCF9241.JPG
Hacksaw a groove through the mount insert's steel ring. Cut where the mount's outer ring is backed by the main body, for strength's sakes.
DSCF9245.JPG
Grab a dot punch and a hammer. This punch is designed to make guide holes for roofing iron nails / screws and works perfectly. Use the punch to peel the insert's ring away from the mount's outer ring.
DSCF9249.JPG
Use needle nose pliers to pull the inner ring out of the mount. Twist it to make it compress like a clock spring, helps it come out.
DSCF9252.JPG
Here's the insert's steel ring removed.
DSCF9254.JPG
Now we need to get the steel pin out of the middle of the old rubber. I made a kind of chisel knife thing from an old hacksaw blade, and put a bolt through a bit of timber to act as a support for the thing while I carved the rubber away.
DSCF9243.JPG
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Clean up the mounts, then hit the urethane with a little soapy water to help the inserts press into the them. Same with the pins.
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Then it's just a case of swapping the things in.
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Can't photograph the gearbox one cos it's hidden away under the steelwork. But it's there alright. :)

The stiffer urethane does mean you get a little resonance in the cabin. But as you can no longer buy OEM engine mounts there's really not much you can do about that if you want to drive an AW. :wink:

Gave the old girl an oil change too so she has a new OEM oil filter and a fresh dose of Motul engine oil.

Oh yeah - while doing this I figured 2 things out. One was that the occasional clunk I'd heard coming from the engine bay was due to the nut having fallen off the main gearbox mount. Bolt was still there and nothing's damaged but no wonder I was hearing a clunk occasionally. That's why I parked it up a few months back, until I could figure it out. No point destroying things eh. All good now, new mount inserts and the missing nut has been replaced.

And I got to the bottom of an engine oil leak that had been puzzling me too. Turned out the oil cooler hose had gone hard and was no longer sealing on the pipes, so I replaced it with new one. Much better.
DSCF9260.JPG
#8^) Charlie the certified Westie
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Financial Club Member since 2004 and thanks to *84vvt and co-conspirators, Life Member since April 2017 8)
100+ MR2OCNZ runs and counting... When going hard, good rubber's your best protection against unwanted accidents. Buy good tyres!
When you're nearing the end of the drag-strip and you have no 'chute, you may as well keep your foot to the floor... Live life. There ain't no second pass. :twisted:

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Re: Mickeyduck's machines

Post by mickeyduck »

Took the red thing for a wee blat this morning to ensure it's happy for next weekend's run. Wheel-spin in 3rd with sticky new top of the line tyres is symptomatic of why I love that car. It just makes me laugh every time I drive it. :twisted: :shock: :lol:

Had the tyre pressures set at 32 and 34 lbs and it feels real nice. Will be interesting to see how it feels when pressed through the corners with the rear tyres like this running 2 lbs less than before. Hopefully still feels planted.

Cleaned up the red and black leather seats for it today. Went to fit them and discovered one "captive" nut is not so captivated. Cavitated, more like. Round it goes, not as intended and not much use. Like a cavitating propeller. :roll:

Need to find an SW dismantled shell to take a gander at to see how I might deal with it.

In my estimation after 35 years of working on vehicles a large part of the difference between a good mechanic and a lousy one is the ability to torque things up as they oughtta be. Not too loose, not too tight. Just right. At the end of the day mechanical things are all about fasteners: How it's all held together. Get that part wrong, all the bits turn to sh*t*. :P

Looking forward to next weekend. Life's a bit of a stress bucket and I could really do with a bit of a break and a damn good romp through the twisties.

Mu ha ha...!... :twisted:
#8^) Charlie the certified Westie
Retired - President 2012 - 2018
Retired - Committee Member 2009 - 2018
Retired - Auckland Area Coordinator 2009 - 2018
Retired - Webmaster, Forum Host & Admin 2010 - 2018 - Now it's mknz

Financial Club Member since 2004 and thanks to *84vvt and co-conspirators, Life Member since April 2017 8)
100+ MR2OCNZ runs and counting... When going hard, good rubber's your best protection against unwanted accidents. Buy good tyres!
When you're nearing the end of the drag-strip and you have no 'chute, you may as well keep your foot to the floor... Live life. There ain't no second pass. :twisted:

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Re: Mickeyduck's machines

Post by mickeyduck »

How do I bridge the terminals on a 94 SW heater control to make the demister fan blow? Full noise is fine, just needs to be working.

Only a couple of days before I expect to drive the Red Thing through rain to Hastings. No demister at the mo...

Help... :lol:
#8^) Charlie the certified Westie
Retired - President 2012 - 2018
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Retired - Webmaster, Forum Host & Admin 2010 - 2018 - Now it's mknz

Financial Club Member since 2004 and thanks to *84vvt and co-conspirators, Life Member since April 2017 8)
100+ MR2OCNZ runs and counting... When going hard, good rubber's your best protection against unwanted accidents. Buy good tyres!
When you're nearing the end of the drag-strip and you have no 'chute, you may as well keep your foot to the floor... Live life. There ain't no second pass. :twisted:

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Re: Mickeyduck's machines

Post by mknz »

mickeyduck wrote:
Tue Oct 20, 2020 6:30 pm
How do I bridge the terminals on a 94 SW heater control to make the demister fan blow? Full noise is fine, just needs to be working.

Only a couple of days before I expect to drive the Red Thing through rain to Hastings. No demister at the mo...

Help... :lol:
If it's similar to others then it's just a plug with two wires and the fan control is just a resistor. Put a suitable gauge copper wire to bridge?

It seems really unlikely that the fan switch would break though, it's probably a fuse?

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Re: Mickeyduck's machines

Post by GDII »

mickeyduck wrote:
Tue Oct 20, 2020 6:30 pm
How do I bridge the terminals on a 94 SW heater control to make the demister fan blow? Full noise is fine, just needs to be working.

Only a couple of days before I expect to drive the Red Thing through rain to Hastings. No demister at the mo...

Help... :lol:
Shall we do some testing? I can go through the wiring diagram with you to troubleshoot. But like Michael says, it's possibly the resistor unit although the MR2 seems to have a ceramic block on it. We should still do what he suggested.
1990 SW20 MR2 G-Limited (GEN4 3SGTE Installed)
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Re: Mickeyduck's machines

Post by mickeyduck »

Fan control?

You've seen pics of the centre console setup with the gauges eh? What fan control... :lol:

I just need to figure out which pins on the connector to short I guess. If the fan was going full noise all the time it wouldn't bother me at all if it meant that winter it would de-mist the screen and summer it'd help cool me off.

If you can help figure that out it'd be awesome. Thanks guys. :D
#8^) Charlie the certified Westie
Retired - President 2012 - 2018
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Financial Club Member since 2004 and thanks to *84vvt and co-conspirators, Life Member since April 2017 8)
100+ MR2OCNZ runs and counting... When going hard, good rubber's your best protection against unwanted accidents. Buy good tyres!
When you're nearing the end of the drag-strip and you have no 'chute, you may as well keep your foot to the floor... Live life. There ain't no second pass. :twisted:

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Re: Mickeyduck's machines

Post by mknz »

Hahaha, I forgot about that.

Imagine going for a restricted driving test and explaining there is no windscreen dumpster.

I don't see it as a requirement in the VIRM which is interesting. Maybe I'm blind.

Let me dump the photos before I explain them. This is all from the 1993 BGB, I'm hoping it's the same for you but I don't know and I can't test sorry.

This plug is all about picking the direction of air
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This is for the fans
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You shouldn't worry about this
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This contains the blower resistor values
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This is how to open and close the air vents
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This is how to control the fans
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This is incase the labelling of plugs and pins isn't clear
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mknz
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Re: Mickeyduck's machines

Post by mknz »

So try connecting pins 4,5,6 (the bottom row) of the 6 pin plug all together and if that works we'll try getting it on hi, getting the defroster mode, and getting the inlets on fresh air afterwards

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Re: Mickeyduck's machines

Post by mknz »

Apologies didn't realise the run was today

For hi fan try also connecting pin 3 to 4,5,6

To pick defroster mode try bridging pins 15 and 14 on the big plug temporarily.

To keep it on fresh air try bridging pins 15 and 9 on the big plug.

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Re: Mickeyduck's machines

Post by mickeyduck »

AWESOME Michael, thanks! Might have to give this a go next weekend. :D

If I can make enough space in the shed to pull the centre console out, with its gauges etc... Need dry weather so the AW can park outside for the weekend. :wink:

On another note the red thing just did a 1,500 km dose of serious twisties including some insanely bad bumps without incident. Nothing broke and good times were had. :mrgreen:

https://mr2.org.nz/forum/viewtopic.php? ... 28#p153028
.
DSCF9289.JPG
I do have a question however: Why do they use 4x4's designed for off-road surfaces as "Road Inspection" vehicles? The drivers clearly don't even notice serious pot-holes, or bridge-to-land joints that have sunk by 10cm or more... No wonder everyone's driving a Ford Ranger and not an MR2. Those in charge of roading clearly have an agenda to deter people from driving sports cars. Twats. :P :roll:
#8^) Charlie the certified Westie
Retired - President 2012 - 2018
Retired - Committee Member 2009 - 2018
Retired - Auckland Area Coordinator 2009 - 2018
Retired - Webmaster, Forum Host & Admin 2010 - 2018 - Now it's mknz

Financial Club Member since 2004 and thanks to *84vvt and co-conspirators, Life Member since April 2017 8)
100+ MR2OCNZ runs and counting... When going hard, good rubber's your best protection against unwanted accidents. Buy good tyres!
When you're nearing the end of the drag-strip and you have no 'chute, you may as well keep your foot to the floor... Live life. There ain't no second pass. :twisted:

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Re: Mickeyduck's machines

Post by mickeyduck »

Air cleaner was a real dirty dog. Reading up it seems one way to reco a K&N pod filter is clean it with Simple Green solution, dry it well then oil it with auto trans fluid. Not sure the ATF will be tacky enough but thought I'd give it a go. K&N filter soaked in ATF, draining in an ice cream tub:
.
DSCF9293.JPG
Later we rolled the old girl out of the shed to give her a wash. Best we could anyway what with this Auckland water restriction crap 'n' all... :roll: Anyway rolled it outside and saw this on the ground where it'd been parked for a week. Uh-oh.
.
DSCF9296.JPG
mickeyduck wrote:
Mon Oct 26, 2020 2:03 pm
Nothing broke...
Well it had got home no problem and everything had seemed SWeet as... Anyway after the wash I backed it up onto ramps and took a look underneath. Oh crap. That ain't pretty.
.
DSCF9298.JPG
Remember how we hit road works? Roads all dug up and turned into loose metal? Looks like a couple of stones hit my oil cooler. Bugger.
.
DSCF9301.JPG
Ah well. Ripped that stuff off today and it's back to how it was when I bought it. Safer anyway. Last thing you need is to have an oil cooler get smashed on a road trip and have the engine haemorrhage and die a horrible death. :shock:

Thankfully this mess looked a lot worse than it was, the engine oil was still almost at the full mark having been last topped up in Kawerau. SWeet as. 8)

Must have been spraying out through a wee crack in the front of the cooler and blowing back all over the thing? Looked awful but actually not much oil lost at all.

I only fitted the cooler again for Manfield and at the time was thinking it needed a grille to protect it. Ah well too late now. :lol:

The little monster runs Motul 300V anyway, proper race car oil at $175 per 5L so frankly for road use and even a track day it really doesn't even need an oil cooler.

I'm going to content myself with the knowledge that one more potential weakness has been eliminated from the machine. And that's a good thing. That's what the last 6 or 7 years of ownership have been all about. SWeet. 8)
#8^) Charlie the certified Westie
Retired - President 2012 - 2018
Retired - Committee Member 2009 - 2018
Retired - Auckland Area Coordinator 2009 - 2018
Retired - Webmaster, Forum Host & Admin 2010 - 2018 - Now it's mknz

Financial Club Member since 2004 and thanks to *84vvt and co-conspirators, Life Member since April 2017 8)
100+ MR2OCNZ runs and counting... When going hard, good rubber's your best protection against unwanted accidents. Buy good tyres!
When you're nearing the end of the drag-strip and you have no 'chute, you may as well keep your foot to the floor... Live life. There ain't no second pass. :twisted:

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Re: Mickeyduck's machines

Post by mknz »

Is there an oil temp readout? I'm wondering if you ever need it on the thirties. With decent oil and regular changes probably not. If you still somehow need one you could mount it further up, but it's still another source of leaks at connection

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