Mickeyduck's machines

[Swampy]

Those tyre sizes will work. I got(had) them on my sw. They will also have them in s001.

Re rim selection I think you're on the right track, something with a bit more bulk/meat to it is the way to go. Rally rims or rally-style rims usually tend to have a bit more to them, and I think once reading on oz's website (could've been them) that they design wheels like this for the additional strain rallying does take on wheels. Then again if they're aluminium alloy they're gonna get wrecked if you hit something hard enough, my wheel got wrecked and it was pretty beefy.

[mickeyduck]

Advan RG-D? Actually specifically designed to clear large calipers.

I said the same thing too

A week or so ago I took a look through your Rides thread Phill and found a pic of your rims with their labelling so that I knew what they were.

Also managed to find the rims that did fit over my front brakes and they were Advan too. 17 x 7.5 @ 29 offset. Rear were 17 x 8.5.
Logan's just had them refurbished for his SW but they did fit my car SWeet.
https://mr2.org.nz/forum/viewtopic.php? ... start=1637



Looking through the current offerings from Advan a set of these might be a go in the "Machining & Racing Hyper Black MHB" finish:

http://www.yokohamawheel.jp/brand/advan ... x_jpn.html

Phill if you look at the table on that page what sizes do you think might fit?

I was hoping to use a 17 x 7.5 and a 17 x 8.5 but looking at what's on offer...

17 x 8 at 37 offset up front perhaps?

They also do 17 x 8.5" at 31 offset.
That will take the tyre sizes I want to use. Probably too wide up front. Probably work well down the back.

They also do them in 17 x 9 at 35 offset.

Might put the feelers out for a set of Advan in 17 x 7.5 and 17 x 8.5 at about 30 offset cos that would likely be SWeet.

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[GDII]

The wheels Logan has are Advan RG. The original ones. They are agreat looking wheel with a few cool options that followed on in the RGII and RGIII. Not a fan of the RG-D2 and RGIII with the sides of the spokes being machined out for lightness.

17x7.5+48 is not going to fit your car sadly. You will hit the coilover spring. What is your current setup?
Looking at fitment calculators the outside of the 7.5+29 Logan has is almost identical to the 8+37 however the 8 goes way in so you might have coilover clearance issues as I mention further on.

You will want 17x8+37 and 17x9+35. Good fitment but you will need a 7mm spacer min for the front to clear your coilovers. So maybe slap a 10mm in there for a +27 effective offset. However you have odd brakes and the offset of a typical wheel no longer applies?

I have 17x8+37 and went with 17x9+29 to change up the lip size. 38mm vs 56mm. It looks like both the 8+37 and 9+35 have the GTR wheel spoke design which gives a larger swooping effect from the outside of the wheel to the mounting face. Something my wheels don't have but the RG, RGII and RGIII offer. This should clear your brakes fine.

I'd provide reference for clearance of my suspension but we don't have the same sort so it's not useful.

What tyres do you want to use? 215/40 fit with a little stretch on an 8" and 245/40 fit the 9" with a little stretch but a 235/40 is more typical and won't rub if used on a 9+35. Not sure how your fronts will fit but they seem to stick way out already.

[85AW20v]

..... My problem is finding a decent set of 17" rims that will fit over the Brembo front calipers and over-sized rotors. Anyway Jim has a very valid point. ......

It might even be easier/cheaper to check out some other brake setups. You might only need to change the disc and the caliper bracket to move the calipers in enough to clear a 17" rim. As you've said before Charlie, it was built as a show car so on 18's it looked good. I doubt you hardly ever, if at all, get anywhere near the braking limit of what you've got so you probably wouldn't even notice the difference if you went down in disc size.

Just a thought anyway......

[THR4SHER007]

Maybe look into these guys, they say they're the only NZ manufacturer of custom mag wheels.

https://www.arrowwheels.co.nz/custom-made-mag-wheels/

[mickeyduck]

It might even be easier/cheaper to check out some other brake setups. You might only need to change the disc and the caliper bracket to move the calipers in enough to clear a 17" rim... I doubt you hardly ever, if at all, get anywhere near the braking limit of what you've got so you probably wouldn't even notice the difference if you went down in disc size.

Too easy to lock up the fronts actually Simon, even at 200kmh or more cos the front brakes are way bigger than the rear ones. A set of RX8 rear rotors with caliper brackets and some fine tuning by way of a bias adjuster would fix that though.

Maybe look into these guys, they say they're the only NZ manufacturer of custom mag wheels.
https://www.arrowwheels.co.nz/custom-made-mag-wheels/

Thanks Logan, nice and local even if they aren't open Saturdays. Sounds like a good place to get rims refinished too. If Giltrap Prestige and Continental Cars have used them for over a decade they must be good.

Meanwhile, took Michelle for a blat in the red thing today, we did the Mac Nuts run up the south head of the Kaipara, did a fly-by of Shelly Beach and carried on home again. Softened the shocks a wee bit after we set off and it made a huge difference to the feel and handling. Funny how much difference 2 or 3 clicks out of 32 can make.

Definitely needs new rear tyres, can slide the arse around corners now although it still has more-than-legal tread across at least 3/4 of the width of the tyre. Running very well, nice and quick.

Bloody power steering decided not to work though which annoys the heck outta me. But it goes like stink and apart from today's power steering fault it seems to be really reliable now (having replaced the starter motor after Fielding).

Always a blast to drive, gotta give it that! Mad as.

[mickeyduck]

Yep SW failed a WOF as the power steering wasn't working. Have swapped in another old relay and it's going again so hopefully I get a WOF this weekend. Discovered it will light up at about 80kmh in 2nd in the dry if I plant my foot so yeah it definitely needs new rear tyres. Just discovered there's a Potenza S001 in 245/35-18 which would eliminate the very annoying occasional rubbing on the guards. Not heard back about 17" rims so may just have to buy some of those tyres and stick with the 18" for now. The ride was pretty comfortable coming back from Shelly Beach the other day so hey, all good.

Been tossing up with flicking off either the AW or the SW. Not enough space in the shed to work on one with the other in there 2. If I keep the AW I'd want to fit a 2GR. Then the little blue 2 would be a 2-GRRRR....! It'd be bullet proof as long as cooling was sorted. Not like it'd have to work hard to push an AW along eh. A 2GR weighs about the same as a 4AG too so the handling would not be upset, until you broke traction.

Or do I flick off the AW and finish the SW? It is after all a madcap adventure to drive. Never fails to make me laugh that's for sure. And I totally love the crazy noises it makes. Everything from fah-fah-fah-foooom to WOOOMFFF!!! But then it's not as nimble as an AW, can't be thrown around with the same degree of hah!

What 2 do? 2 many decisions. Yep, one 2 many. LOL...

Anyone have a spare SW power steering relay?
This little guy, attached to an ECU kinda gizmo, right side in the frunk. Cheers.

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[mknz]

You tried that trick flicking they key back and forth like 20 times? At least to get a WOF

[GDII]

You tried that trick flicking they key back and forth like 20 times? At least to get a WOF

Yeah, this thing. Works every time. Free fix. Another relay will just do the same thing at one point or another.

[Mr-Paulio]

This happened to mine about 6 months ago. Did the trick. Has been fine since.

[Jabeo]

first happened to me once in a repco car park and can confirm that this works pretty much every time

[mickeyduck]

You tried that trick flicking they key back and forth like 20 times? At least to get a WOF

LOL. Park car, leave keys in ignition, turned off, as instructed. Fella jumps in, sanitises car interior, door handles, key etc in case they are covid infected. WOF guy gets in, starts car. No power steering. Fail.

I did explain to him that when it does it you just need to turn it off and on until it works, and that they all do it...

Fail.

I might rob one from the other SW and take it with me for the re-check just in case...

[mknz]

I bet Phil can check the EWD and figure out what kind of relay it is then maybe just reuse the connectors and get a new generic one just to avoid this all over again

[mknz]

Probably just need one of these which you can find anywhere https://www.narva.com.au/products/68000

Some blade connections and just cut up the offender.

If you use a multimeter you should be able to figure which side is ground. I bet the two wire plug goes to the PS and the other to the ignition circuit. The only question is does the ignition ground or does it give 12v? Then just wire the opposite to the same pin you'd use for PS

[GDII]

I bet Phil can check the EWD and figure out what kind of relay it is then maybe just reuse the connectors and get a new generic one just to avoid this all over again

Maybe I can?

Probably just need one of these which you can find anywhere https://www.narva.com.au/products/68000

Some blade connections and just cut up the offender.

If you use a multimeter you should be able to figure which side is ground. I bet the two wire plug goes to the PS and the other to the ignition circuit. The only question is does the ignition ground or does it give 12v? Then just wire the opposite to the same pin you'd use for PS

The fuse it runs off is an 80AMP ABS so I don't know if the 40AMP relay would work. Suggestions for using Sold State Relays on other forums to stop this issue. REV1 JDM cars used a 60A FL ABS fuse to power this systm.

Plug B is P10 which is the large socket. This is switched power.
Plug A is P11 which is the small plug. This is the coil side.

Plug B pin 1 takes power from the 80A ABS fuse (60A FL ABS REV1 JDM)
Plug B pin 2 sends power to the motor and the driver

Plug A pin 1 takes signal from MRLY of the PS ECU to switch the PS Relay
Plug A pin 2 is ground. It also connects to ground off the PS ECU and the PS Driver.

Refer page 132-135 of the USDM 93 wiring diagram for reference.