Mickeyduck's machines

[mknz]

What does your cert plate say? You may need to stick with 18s

[mickeyduck]

What does your cert plate say? You may need to stick with 18s

Well there's a point. And yeah it specifies 18 x 9 and 18 x 8 rims.

Also, just noticed that the fronts are 225/35-18 not sure why I had 235/35-18 in my head, but hey...
They still have plenty of life in them.
Have gone back and edited my post to correct it.

So I guess I'll simply squeeze what I can from the back tyres then replace them with some Potenza S001 again.

I still think it would be interesting to run 17's on it. Maybe one day...

And sorry about not dropping the clutch earlier during the bump-start bizzo Phill. Wasn't sure if we were rolling fast enough mate.

[mknz]

Should be pretty straightforward to get it recerted for a tiny wheel change, a few hundred $ later maybe. I'd say get other things done at the same time, but it's not like you're adding coil overs or a more powerful engine I doubt people would check if you used 8.5 and 7.5 wide 18s though

[GDII]

And sorry about not dropping the clutch earlier during the bump-start bizzo Phill. Wasn't sure if we were rolling fast enough mate.

Haha all good. You were moving at a fair rate of knots, maybe not quite front straight speeds. You'd be surprised at how slow you can bump start a car, especially a turbo with lowish compression.

[mickeyduck]

You'd be surprised at how slow you can bump start a car, especially a turbo with lowish compression.

My thinking was probably influenced by past experience Phill. I think the last time I needed a bump-start was nearly 40 years ago in an XA Falcon on a grass paddock after a Marist rugby club bash where the wheels slipped the first few times so it had to be moving pretty fast to work. As we were on gravel I was thinking the same thing would happen. Glad for your sakes it didn't!

[GDII]

Fair enough. At least your battery works. Mine has decided to give up on life. But I did buy it 10 years ago so I guess it's had a really good run. Poor thing.

[mickeyduck]

Since the trip to Manfield and back I've raised the ride height about 5mm all around because the tyres hit the guards maybe 3 times on the 1200km trip. Which is b.a. compared to what they used to, but still too much for my liking.

I've also carved about 2mm off the seam that runs up and down at the rear of the front inner guard because once in a blue moon the tyres rub on it, during hard turns I think (this car has no guard liners due to big rims and rolled guards). Painted it with under-seal afterwards.

Note to self: make some custom (aluminium or plastic sheet?) front guard liners one day, to keep out the cow shit and stones!

Because I upped the ride height I had to revisit the camber and toe-in again, so I've increased the rear camber a little because it hopped around very tight corners if taking them real fast, whereas it used to slide, which is much better. As far as I can figure by way of my primitive angle-calculation method (see earlier post) I now have about 1.9 or 2.0 degrees negative camber on the rear, where the legal limit for an SW is about 2.3 degrees.

I took a look at the front camber and it seemed as if there was more on the left front than the right so I used the adjustable aspect of the BC's to set both sides up at about 1.7 degrees negative camber, the legal limit being about 1.9 degrees.

The idea of 17 inch rims with smaller diameter tyres that have higher sidewalls still makes sense to me. One day...

Oh yeah... Closer investigation shows the Potenza S001 tyres didn't melt at Manfield at all. They got hot and sticky but no loss of sharpness on the tread block edges, still good for the wet. They simply picked up rubber from someone else's tyres. Anyway it says to me the S001 are good for the road and good for the track. After 6 years and a fair few heat cycles they still work perfectly. Though I have managed to shred the tread from the inner edges of the rears.

Like you Charlie I need new rear tyres and to sort out my wastegate issues.

Regards the wastegate... I'm a bit puzzled as to why mine rattles until 3,000rpm.

I know the spring in it isn't grunty enough to keep it closed until it opens, and that the HKS controller and its electronic dial-it-in gizmo in the cockpit do the balance of the job with help from two vacuum / boost lines...

But I really don't understand why it rattles (opens and shuts) until 3,000rpm and then stays firmly closed (or cracked open perhaps?) until full boost is reached.

I'm thinking I might need to fit a weakish 2nd spring to help the one that's in there?

Or do I simply wind up the preload on the spring?

That's if I can't find anything wrong with the vacuum lines of course.

Anyone have any ideas?

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[Benckj]

There are a couple different ways to plumb in the Wastegste to the EBC valve. I didn’t realise this and simply connected it like an accuator. Looking at the pros & cons now to see what is best way to do.

[mickeyduck]

I hope you can find the right info for your wastegate and boost controller setup Jim.

The boost controller in my SW is an HKS EVC-IV
https://www.hks-power.co.jp/en/support/faq/evc2.html

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Plumbing instructions from the HKS manual:

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Trouble-shooting hints:

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The HKS EVC-IV manual itself:

hks-evc-iv-ez-ii-manual.pdf

(1.69 MiB) Downloaded 64 times

I need to sort the wastegate valve first then look at the hoses etc. Went for a blat this morning and only got 1.3 bar boost. Still quick enough to be a handful though.

Suspension seems ok, steering seems ok, spotted a drip from the fuel return line so tightened that up before leaving - needs a more crushable hose I think, stainless braid doesn't squash too easily, might swap it out for a softer hose. Will look for a gruntier clamp first. (It hose-clamps onto the fuel tank's skinny steel OEM return tube.)

Anyway here's to a good run next Sunday. I just hope the roads survive the deluge that's expected for Tuesday.
On the plus side Jim, it looks like we'll cop the worst of it up here, not you and the lakes and Clyde dam.
Not sure whose forecast will be most accurate but I know which one I'd prefer (the drier one!)
Batten down the hatches!

https://www.metservice.com/maps-radar/r ... ast/3-days

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http://metvuw.com/forecast/forecast.php ... oofdays=10

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[Benckj]

I run a HKS EVC-S which has a similiar diagram. There is another way that doesn’t split the compressor supply line. At Manfeild I only had the lower port of gate connected to EBC and not split from compressor. It works but don’t believe it’s as effective, hence my over boost issue.

[mickeyduck]

Pulled the fuel return line off the SW to see if I could make it less of a worry. If I could strip 50mm of stainless braid from the end that attaches to the fuel tank maybe the hose clamps could do up tighter? Turned out the stainless braid is bonded to the nitrile rubber hose and almost impossible to cut anyway (without an angle grinder). Plus the rubber hose was really hard (being at least 10 years old) and that wouldn't help a hose clamp either. So I gave up on that idea.

Old stainless braided return line with AN-4 fitting, below:

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Went to NZ Safety Blackwood's and scored some Continental fuel line way cheaper than I could find it anywhere else. And some wicked little Swedish fuel line clamps that can do up real tight without hurting soft rubber hose. Nice.

After tightening it I tried to pull the fitting off the hose... Nah, she's on there eh. So on it went.

Might go for one last test drive this Saturday to ensure all's well for Sunday's run. Certainly don't need a leak above the spark pack gizmo (which is why I angled the hose away to one side, just in case). But I'll be a little surprised if that return line ever leaks again. Those Swedish hose clamps are awesome.

[GDII]

Lookiong good Charlie

Those hose clamps are quite a common OEM thing. I'll be using them for the GEN4 swap on Olafs car and possibly mine as they are EFI clamps made for use on feed lines too. Subaru use it.

[Benckj]

Excerpt form the HKS EVC-S manual on external gate connection or 'poppet' valve as they describe.

[lasersooby]

How often you clean the engine bay Charlie. Looks clean as mate

[mickeyduck]

How often you clean the engine bay Charlie. Looks clean as mate

Not very often actually Mo. I must confess I'm more into making sure things work than making them look good, though I do try not to make 'em ugly. And I do like to drive the thing when I can and that inevitably takes its toll. Stone chips etc (thanks FH) So it's not quite as pretty as it was when I bought it. But it's certainly more robust, more able to handle our fine b-b-b-b-back roads.

Had the day off to go to my youngest son's graduation today, so took the SW for a wee test run this morning to ensure the fuel return line is all good for Sunday. No problems as yet, all seems SWeet.

Intend to look into wastegate springs. It would make sense to me to have it sprung to open at 1 bar as that way even if the electronic controller died, the thing would mechanically still work at a reasonable boost level. Thanks to the cams etc, even 1 bar of boost (14psi) is ample to make it go just fine.

Anyway looking forward to Sunday and a run to Mike's caravan at Pakiri. Should be an AWesome way to start the holidays.