Re: Mickeyduck's machines
Posted: Thu Apr 18, 2019 1:20 pm
Perforated stainless steel roasting pan from TM?
Instead of shielding the engine lid, why not shield the source of the heat? That could be easier than finding what you need for the engine lid. Would a turbo sock/cover do the job?mickeyduck wrote:....
On another note does anyone know where I can score a 1 metre square bit of perforated aluminium or stainless sheet about 1mm thick, with holes between 2 and 3mm diameter and an open area of better than 30%
Want to make a ventilated heat-shield for the SW's engine lid but man it's hard to find a bit of this stuff. Seems like they only make it on a custom basis and usually just big runs for buildings and stuff. ....
Ha ha already looked at that John but they're a little small.Redmist wrote:Perforated stainless steel roasting pan from TM?
I've just been back though some of your photos and the shield could be mounted on the threaded holes where that exhaust rose joint is attached to the head. There's also a couple of I think 10mm bolts heads on your dump pipe(?) that the bottom of the shield could be attached too. There isn't any stress/strain on the shield so that should work OK.85AW20v wrote:Instead of wrapping it, you could make up a sheet metal shield to go over the turbo and down the headers. It's the air gap between the heat source and the inside of the shield that stops the heat transfer. Same principle is used on exhausts to stop the heat transfer off the exhaust pipe and into the car floor. Mount it off your manifold bolts and a stand-off bracket or two welded to the extractors. You'll still be able to see/hear any exhaust leak. You could make it out of stainless or mild steel sheet - aluminium wouldn't be durable enough.
Chrome paint it? Then with the fans you can evacuate air when you come to a stop. Could also just have a show piece to swap in and out. Just some different ideas.mickeyduck wrote:I'd also like to make it such that when the lid is up it acts as a bit of a mirror offering a teaser reflection of the engine so at shows it helps draw attention. Whereas at the moment the inside of the lid is pig ugly (seeing as I removed the original two fans and their surrounding red plate).
A few things here and tbh I can't remember everything in your thread. Does your alignment have too much toe-in? IIRC the gen 2 rear suspension gives more toe in when extending (braking). I can't remember your current tyre width but you might not get as wide on 17s and still have S001s. BC will do custom spring rates IIRC, so you can step it up without breaking things. Are those current wheels heavy? Going to 17s could be an excuse to get lighter wheels.mickeyduck wrote:On the plus side the SW is running real well. Had a lot of fun driving to Hamilton and back yesterday via nice twisty back roads. Nothing broke or fell off and it goes like a cut cat. My only problem is those 18 inch rims mean it rides higher than I'd like and as I'm used to throwing a lowered AW through the corners, the SW feels like it has a big fat butt. Judging by the lack of tyre squeal it's nowhere near the limits but I'm not yet fully happy with it. Smaller rims and lower suspension would suit me better. One day perhaps. Either that or I'll have to resurrect the Kei Office coil-overs / morph their springs onto the BC Golds and settle for the rock solid ride with zero suspension travel like it was before. But that tends to break stuff. Which I could only fix by way of smaller rims and higher profile tyres...
you already spin your SC tyres. Also I don't think you'll want to swap because I swear the engine bay is tighter and you'll have a much heavier rear end.mickeyduck wrote:Should just drop the engine in the AW. Now that would be truly nuts. Especially on 195's.
Looks like the "Clinitron." has left its lair I can acquire the perforated sheet in its bed might be a week or 2, sadly may not be a full 1m in width .mickeyduck wrote:So you're like one of those Men In Black, right? Always wondered what you did for a crust.*84vvt wrote:I know were there is some @ work but its in a Clinitron bed
I might upset people if I was to borrow it
Personally, I'd be more concerned about upsetting the Clinitron. It might like its bed...
Ask Bridgestone, James. But if you really get stuck you might have to go to Toyo T1R as they still come in a range of sizes. Just have to order them months in advance and whatever you do, do NOT mix them with the Potenzas. Must have Potenzas all round, or Toyos. Unless you like spinning out...Swampy wrote:Will the s001 still be available in smaller sizes for a few more months/years or are stocks completely 0.00?
OEM spec camber is:thelinuxwarrior wrote:Alignment we use on our race car (mind you its with the early gen subframe)
Front:
Camber: ~2.25
Toe per wheel: -1.6mm
Caster: 3.5degress
Rear:
Camber: ~2.5
Toe per wheel: 3.1mm