Kris' AW

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Statek
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Kris' AW

Post by Statek »

Hey guys. I've been on the forums for a little while, but I'm lazy and never posted anything to do with my little AW. Reading through some of your project has motivated me to post up my experiences.
So i'll be backdating a little to catch up to what I've done so far.
My wife and I scored this car in March from TradeMe (with prodding from Alex/Sinturion) for a whopping $600, so I knew it was gonna take some work.
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It's an auto with about 225,000 kms.
First things first, the tires were horrible retreads (don't know where the last owner got them from, ugh..) so I scored a set of early ZZW30 staggered wheels with OKish tyres.
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Instant make-over. Heaps more street cred 8)
Last edited by Statek on Tue Jun 18, 2019 8:53 am, edited 3 times in total.
1986 Toyota MR2 AW11 20v ST - SOLD
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Statek
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Re: Kris' AW

Post by Statek »

In the first week of ownership I went over the whole car and replaced all the tired and neglected components like sway bar links, sway bar mounts, front radius rod bushes, new pads and rotors on the front, machined the rear rotors (as only about 10% of their area were being used due to a pad-slap to some nicely grooved rotors by the previous owner), and went for a wheel alignment.
Got a WoF and instant gratification when it wasn't knocking while driving over bumps. :D
Now keeping it automatic was not an option (with disagreement from the wife) so I got a manual gearbox (C56, spare from Alex who was well into his 2GR conversion) but needed a gearshifter, cables, clutchlines, pedals etc. Luckily, through the forums I struck Fevil in Dargaville, who was keen to part with some of his stock. Good excuse for the first roadtrip (read: hoon) :twisted:
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Just before we got to Wellsford there were some very nice twisties, and then we stopped at a nice lookout point. When returning to the car we noticed smoke coming from the engine bay :(
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Looked like ATF spilled out of the dipstick tube - gave it death a little while ago so maybe was overfull, and boiled over through the twisties? ATF got on the exhaust so car was a little smokey for a bit, but we took it easy just to be sure. We also suspected the radiator cap to be a little dodgy, but apparently there is NOWHERE to buy a radiator cap in Wellsford. Anyway...
Got to Dargaville, picked up all the bits and pieces from Fevil, and carried on to Kai Iwi lakes since we were almost there anyway.
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Made it back to Auckland with no more adventures.
Last edited by Statek on Tue Jun 18, 2019 8:55 am, edited 1 time in total.
1986 Toyota MR2 AW11 20v ST - SOLD
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Re: Kris' AW

Post by Statek »

Time for the manual conversion! :twisted:
NB: I've done a manual conversion on a AE101 Corolla I had previously, and it was piece of cake. After this experience, I don't think I'll be converting any more AWs.
Probably the worst part of it was installing the clutch pipe, running from the front of the car to the rear. ..and I had a hoist!
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It's on the floor!
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The obligatory "Hey, I'm in the engine bay" pic. (With a G photobombing in the background [G=Guy working next door :wink: ])

With the engine out, I replaced the OE 16v manifold (which was cracked) ...
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...with a better flowing 20v which I had wrapped and slotted one of the holes to fit the 16v:
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Looked quite good really, pity it disappears in the AW engine bay.
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Machined the flywheel, new clutch master cylinder, new clutch slave cylinder, temporary 2nd hand clutch, a third pedal and the manual gear selector.
Boom!!
Massive difference in how it drives.

Attended our first Mr2 club run, The Kaiaua Run: http://mr2.org.nz/phpbb3/viewtopic.php? ... =60#p97657
Was a blast!
Last edited by Statek on Tue Jun 18, 2019 8:59 am, edited 1 time in total.
1986 Toyota MR2 AW11 20v ST - SOLD
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Statek
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Re: Kris' AW

Post by Statek »

Oh, forgot to mention. Prior to the Kaiaua run:
Mad rush to finish the manual conversion, got it done a week before the run.
The 16v was always gonna go, so I didn't refresh it while it was out. Mistake... :shock:
Waterpump started leaking 1 day after engine went back in.
So I did the cambelt, waterpump and seals with the engine in. Not as bad a job as I thought it was gonna be :)
But that's not all!
On the way to the meeting point at BP Solar, the car overheated just after Takanini offramp on SH1. Had to stop on the side of the motorway and wait to cool down a bit. Topped up the water and cautiously made our way to BP Solar. Checked everything out, and it looked like it was a faulty radiator cap (which I had meant to replace since the adventure on the way to Dargaville). Aaaaaaand again... No, you cannot buy a radiator cap from a petrol station, because they sell tampons and coffee, and not much else. :roll:
With the entire convoy starting on their way, we (Alex thankfully offered to assist again) turned around and went to Supercheap in Takanini to buy a radiator cap.
This solved my issues and we then blasted all the way to Orere Point to arrive before the rest of the run.
Last edited by Statek on Thu Sep 19, 2013 12:06 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Kris' AW

Post by Statek »

Did some other maintenance. Cleaned up the rear lights from the horrid tinting job someone had done previously, and sanded off the writing and numbers off the lenses while I was at it.
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One on the left freshly finished.

Replaced the cruddy eyelids
From these:
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To this:
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Unfortunately, my driver's side eyelid snapped while driving on the motorway about a week after installing these :cry: Probably due to the twisted bumper and the strong winds that Saturday morning :evil:
Last edited by Statek on Tue Jun 18, 2019 9:02 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Statek
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Re: Kris' AW

Post by Statek »

Alex kindly donated his old 20v ST towards re-powering my AW.
Long term goal is a NA 2ZZ, but that can wait till I have funds for a proper engine build-up.

Here it is, after 2 years of sitting in the corner:
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I was told the engine ran well, but was a tad smoky, so definitely needed valve stems done, possibly rings.

So I stripped it down:
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Assessed it (and our bank account)
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and decided that I wasn't gonna touch the pistons and rings, just new valve stem seals, and not to repeat previous mistakes: a cambelt kit and waterpump.
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Old valve stem seals out
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Cleaned up the valve seats too, you can see the two exhaust ports on the RH of the photo haven't been done yet.
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All shiny :D
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For that extra 5% HP increase, I painted the front covers and pulleys (again, not that you can see them)


While all this was going on, I got smacked into by an Audi
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So while insurance was paying for this, I had the panelbeater fix up the LH rear corner
Here's a picture of what it was like since I bought it:
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and also the sills in front of the rear wheels, which has rusted quite badly. The nice guy that he was, the panelbeater sprayed my LH door too with the paint he mixed up for the bumper.
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Much better :D
Last edited by Statek on Tue Jun 18, 2019 9:06 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Kris' AW

Post by Statek »

I knew the bumper iron was dodgy at best, since the front indicators were held in only by the wires which were cable tied so they didn't fall out under braking.

So.... Took the front bumper off :?
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Then took the bumper iron out of the bumper, and shook all the rust flakes out of the bumper:
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Kind of scary to see this. Glad I'm getting it sorted now.

This is what the chassis looked like:
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AWs don't normally rust there, so I guess this must've been caused by the bumper iron rotting, and the flakes just sitting inside the chassis rails.

This is inside the chassis rail:
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Wire brushed all the rust and vacuumed inside the chassis rails to pick up all the crap, then hit it all with cold galv.
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Once the cold galv set, hit it again!
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The 0.9mm steel plate that is gonna cover up the biggest section of rust damaged chassis:
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Welded in and cold galved again:
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Some of the smaller holes were just filled in with welds.

All painted and starting to look better:
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Now, you cannot buy a new pre-facelift (Mk1a) bumper iron, and with searching high and low not having turned anything up, I took what remained of my bumper iron to a Metal Fabricator and asked him to quote me up. I was told he will ring me within 3 days with a quote, and I said I'll let him know if anyone else from the Mr2OCNZ would be keen, maybe we could make a few and bring the costs down.
Having not heard from him, I rang him after a week to inquire about it, and he said "yeah yeah, I'm in the process of pricing it up. I'll call you after the weekend". That was the last I heard from him, and TBH I couldn't be f**ked chasing him up after that. I wonder if he'll ever ring me...

Through TradeMe I found a guy up in Mangawhai who was parting out a few AWs and he said he'll have a bumper bar. So I drove up there that weekend, and unfortunately he didn't have a pre-facelift, only a few Mk1b bumpers and irons. Having heard from a few people that it is possible to fit a Mk1a, I decided to grab it. He didn't have the lower part of the bumper because they all had rusted out on his ones. But I did score the lower lip from the same car, in poor condition, but fixable in the near future.

Dummy fitting the facelift bumper iron and bumper, with pre-facelift lower fascia:
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Looks doable, only a few mounts needed to be made up for the lower fascia, as they had different mounting points to the bumper.

So prepared the bumper iron (cold galv) and all the bits and pieces needed to attach it all to the car (cold galv) :)
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Just painted the bumper satin black, eventually will get it matched up to the car.
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Finished product:
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Mk1b bumper with iron, Mk1a lower fascia and lower lip.
Rust content of AW11 = decreased significantly.

Interesting note:
I dummy fitted the facelift bumper iron into my original (pre-facelift) bumper, and it fit into the foam insert with no problems and the mounting holes lined up for the bumper. Minor difference where the towing hooks are under the bumper, but a little trim of the bumper would sort that out.
I think it's a viable option to use the facelift bumper iron with the pre-facelift bumper.
Attachments
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Last edited by Statek on Tue Jun 18, 2019 9:17 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Kris' AW

Post by Benckj »

Good read and nice attention to details. Thanks for sharing.
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Re: Kris' AW

Post by flying_wedge »

That's quite the pull apart and recondition of the front. Nice work. Looking pretty straight and lined up
Always liked the MRS alloys on an AW. If only they came 2" wider than they do ...

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Statek
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Re: Kris' AW

Post by Statek »

So... end of August this year, the 16v left the engine bay and the "temporary" engine went in.
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It's in!
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Had to make a pipe to run coolant from the filler neck (which I wanted to retain in the stock place) to the engine
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This is what it looked like finished
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..and this is it in place:
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So the 20v is ready to turn over
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And turn over it did, but it didn't start :evil:
Enlisted Alex again to help me figure out the wiring. After we spent a Saturday going over it, eventually we found my cock up - I joined the correct positive wires at the start of the engine loom, but because the same wires were joined near the ECU in the previous car, one wire was missed :oops:

So the car now started and ran! There was white smoke coming out the exhaust but after a full day of head scratching we gave it a rest.
After the weekend I decided to run the car up to temperature, but because it was smoking we "extended" the exhaust so as to not suffocate myself in the workshop
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The car kept overheating. So checked the thermostat and tried several times to bleed it of air. After the 3rd time trying to get the air out, the bleeder on the radiator just wouldn't close up again and coolant was being pushed out the hose attached to it.
I thought about getting an alloy radiator, but after talking with Trevor Morris Radiators, I was talked into retaining the stock radiator because it would be better then the cheap Chinese radiators you can buy off TradeMe. I did get them to strip it and clean it (it was 60% blocked! :shock: ), put some new hose fittings (because mine were rusted on the ends, and wouldn't survive much longer) and put a new bleeder in :D
All for the fair price of $100 cash, and my thanks.
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Cooling issue sorted! :D
White smoke out the exhaust still there :evil:

Did diagnostics on the ECU, and a couple codes popped out: O² sensor (expected as I didn't have a 4-wire sensor yet, so it was unplugged), igniter signal fault and no coolant temp sender signal.
Found the coolant temp sender problem straight away, as the broken wire was hanging just above the plug to the sensor. Easy fix.
Igniter fault was harder to track but eventually found this under some old electrical tape:
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Nice.

Sorted! No more white smoke and car ran great! :D
Last edited by Statek on Tue Jun 18, 2019 10:19 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Kris' AW

Post by Statek »

Now that the intake sounded great thanks to the ITBs, it was time to sort out the exhaust note 8) (and improve performance :twisted: )

Old exhaust:
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The plan was to install a 2" system, mandrel bends, a resonator and a nicely flowing muffler.
Tried a superturbo type muffler, but it still had that "angry bee" sounding 4age exhaust note. We found a nice straight through sports muffler with medium perforations inside that made the exhaust a lot deeper, without the bark. Now just to shut it up a bit, since I don't want to be causing the wife to get headaches while hooning around. A single resonator was an improvement but not enough, a longer resonator a little bit better again, but 2 short resonators worked best, without hindering the exhaust flow any!

Fitting the muffler:
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Mandrel bends:
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Resonators:
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And the finished product:
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This is what it looks like on the car, nicely tucked up, barely noticeable. It has a nice deep tone and flows great!
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Last edited by Statek on Tue Jun 18, 2019 10:22 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Kris' AW

Post by mickeyduck »

Nice Kris! :mrgreen:

You need new rear tyres from the looks of it though... :wink:

That wire you found making it smoke... not like the old days when a car just had a carbie and an ECU hadn't even been dreamed up yet eh...

Dang almighty over-complicated things these here newfangled jaloppies are with all their gizmos and gear. :lol: :P

Mind you, whippersnappers like yourself mostly don't know no different. Can't help wondering if 30 years from now, you and Alex will be scratching your heads at the tech used in the cars of then perhaps... When your kids have cars maybe you'll be starting to feel old like me. LOL

Still, all that extra tech does work exceedingly well and it does tend to be more reliable than the old carbies and points of yesteryear. I sure can't argue with that.

Though tuning the carbs each weekend before a blat was kinda satisfying in a masochistic kinda way. :P

These days you tend to just get in your car and expect it to work properly.

Didn't used to be the case that's for sure... Especially if it was British or European. LOL

Yay for the Japs for making things like EFI common-place. The AW's were amongst the first and back in the day that was still expensive and seriously funky technology as I remember it. Hence the "EFI" badging here and there.

Sorry dude, I digress. Don't mean to hijack your thread. Keep up the good work, and look forward to seeing you guys on the next run! :D
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Re: Kris' AW

Post by Statek »

mickeyduck wrote:You need new rear tyres from the looks of it though... :wink:
I've got a tyre shop next door to my work, and the owner has kindly offered to fit some nice new Neuton NT5000s to the rear of my AW. Thinking that I don't want some crap Chinese tyres, I did some research, and surprisingly, they've got some positive reviews!
I do have to say that they're a very good tyre! I know my AW isn't the most powerful car, but breaking traction is not possible in the dry, and in the wet I really have to throw the car into a corner to do it :wink:
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Re: Kris' AW

Post by Ash Kelly Barr »

Good write up!! As you know I'm going through this now, aside from the 20v swop obviously haha

I'm looking at nitto's all round as they seem to be pretty good for what you pay
Are your MRS wheels 14" front and 15" on the back?
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Statek
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Re: Kris' AW

Post by Statek »

The ZZW30 facelift wheels are 15" front and 16" rear. I've got pre-facelift and they're 15" all round, but slightly wider on the rear.
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