Olaf's '92 MR2 GT

[*84vvt]

Sounds like something caught on fire. Check around the exhaust pipes and see if anything close to it melted.

Me thinks the loom got hot melted causing a shot circuit or 5 .
only a look see will tell for sure.

[ClanFever]

I'll have a good look at it later today. I know where the smoke was coming from so I'll start there.

[ClanFever]

Did a visual look I can't see shit. It will have to be voltmeter testing and trial and error. I will use my auto sparky same guy who gave me a tow home as he will be efficient and be able to repair too! All for a box of beer

[GDII]

*runs and hides*

[JasonFriday13]

Crawl under the car and have a look. I'm just going to read the replies now.

[EssDub]

*munches on popcorn while watching GDII running off*

[ClanFever]

*runs and hides*

Haha unless you want to help me do it? Figured you've had enough of my car and me not listening to you xD

There is water under the car. Under where the turbo is. Probably a water leak and that's caused enough water loss for the overheat, which in turn melted something...

[ClanFever]

Going over it with my sparky tomorrow. Gonna test for a blown headgasket too.

[ClanFever]

After 4 hours of mucking around we found the problem and spent 1 minute fixing it.

Found original problem. Tested circuits and found no issues. Took out starter and bench tested it to see if it got stuck. Did not. Tested relay too, even got another starter relay in there to test. Still no issues. Put starter back in and same issue. Thought perhaps sticking on flywheel. But unsure. He then tested the ground in the starter relay and found it was getting about 4.4V which was odd. Not entirely sure why but the ground is getting reverse polarity power which then powers the starter while the keys out of the igniton. We sorted a new ground for the relay and the car fired up (wasn't before, maybe ecu being tricked).

Did a quick headgasket check couldn't find an issue. However water temp sensor is buggered, hanging by a thread, when the car is off, the temp gauge reads very hot. So got to sort that out, and do a coolant rebleed and go for a drive to see if it overheats or not. So looks like we're nearly good to go again.

[*84vvt]

That be good news
Best stay away from the race track till after the next Club run

[ClanFever]

That be good news
Best stay away from the race track till after the next Club run

I'll be bringing a tow rope so someone can tow me home

[*84vvt]

Best I bring the Green Box then

[ClanFever]

Best I bring the Green Box then

I ought to report you for that post haha gonna do some testing this weekend then will sort out doing a more localised run.

[JasonFriday13]

One good test for the cooling system is once you have bled it up, put the cap back on and let it warm right up to temp so that the radiator fans start turning on and off. Then look under the car and check for leaks. You can also raise the revs to add more heat. This is the safest way to check for an over-heating engine because you will see it fairly quickly and can turn it off straight away.

[ClanFever]

One good test for the cooling system is once you have bled it up, put the cap back on and let it warm right up to temp so that the radiator fans start turning on and off. Then look under the car and check for leaks. You can also raise the revs to add more heat. This is the safest way to check for an over-heating engine because you will see it fairly quickly and can turn it off straight away.

It has a mysterious leak. Me and Phil couldn't find its source. It didn't bubble which is a good start.

On going from the cold start coolant sensor, we unplugged it then the car barely started and gave us engine codes 22 and 51. Cold start or idle or something is 22. 51 is switch sensor (further reading its something to do with idle). We plugged the broken coolant sensor back in and fixed the engine lights. It's f'ed though so Phils gifting me a spare sensor. Plug that in and hopefully thats that. The temp sensor thats actually in the dash was just hanging off, Phil tightened the plug with pliers and it works good now. Get the cold start coolant sensor in and it should be good to go. Just got to keep an eye on the water and my temp sensor. Plugged my boost control sensor back in xD