Olaf's '92 MR2 GT

[ClanFever]

How much of a drop? It's normal for a bit of voltage drop, but a big drop means that something is wrong.

Probably about 1/4 of the red zone of the voltameter, then it goes back up

[ClanFever]

[GDII]

Looking good. Time to remove the spider webs and give it a good clean and polish up.

[JasonFriday13]

How much of a drop? It's normal for a bit of voltage drop, but a big drop means that something is wrong.

Probably about 1/4 of the red zone of the voltameter, then it goes back up

The gauge in the dash is for telling you when the battery or alternator dies, nothing else. I thought you were getting readings like 14.4V or 12V. Do you actually have a multimeter?

[GDII]

He said he was getting 13.7v with the car running. That's not bad but the norm is 14.7 right?

[JasonFriday13]

13.7V is a little bit low, generally it should be between 14V and 14.5V. 13.7V is still high enough to charge the battery, it will just charge up a bit slower.

[ClanFever]

I can't complain it's still running. Planning a rebuild at some stage just gotta keep an eye on gauges till then

[JasonFriday13]

I would suggest checking to see if the head has gone soft from overheating. This can't be done until the head has been taken off the engine. I've seen a previous case where an engine was overheating on boost, so the bottom end was rebuilt and the head and block were planed flat with a new gasket, and it started overheating faster than before. A new head completely fixed the overheating.

That's just something else to be aware of if you are reusing a head and the old engine has overheated several times.

[ClanFever]

I would suggest checking to see if the head has gone soft from overheating. This can't be done until the head has been taken off the engine. I've seen a previous case where an engine was overheating on boost, so the bottom end was rebuilt and the head and block were planed flat with a new gasket, and it started overheating faster than before. A new head completely fixed the overheating.

That's just something else to be aware of if you are reusing a head and the old engine has overheated several times.

Good point I'll remember that.

[ClanFever]

Is now using excessive water, more than before. Can't even get to work and back without it being too low. Alternator is also whining like a mofo, lights starting to dim then brighten as somethings not going right. So I'm going to have to look at options. It also runs excessively rich, more than it should, as you can smell petrol very clearly in cars I pass and it blows big blooms of black smoke.

Only option for alternator: Rebuild bearing!
Not sure on options for the fuel, perhaps a dyno and a tune? How much would this cost?

Engine options
Option 1: Full rebuild.
Option 2: Headgasket
Option 3: New Engine

Perfer option 2 if it's viable. My mate Russell is good to me and may be able to help me out with perky rates. He's the one who swapped out the ct26 for the ct20b, along with all engine swaps, so he's already familiar with the engine/engine bay. He also hates doing perkys now (why wouldn't you, if you do it for a job 40 hours a week) - so I probably won't go down this road if he can't do it. Unless someone else can do it cheap (there is no way I'm doing it, my mental strength just isn't strong enough to have the patience to learn everything, buy the tools etc especially with the timing).

I'm MR2-less again! Damn haha

[Benckj]

Before you do anything need to sort out the HG problem. Compression and leak down test to determine extent of the problem.

Alternator would probably need to be re-built. Not expensive but a pain to remove and replace. Can't tune for running rich unless you have an aftermarket EMS or piggyback. They all run rich but if your compression and ignition is OK the OEM ECU will be good enough. Start with the basics and move forward from there.

Jim

[GDII]

Check the head to make sure it hasn't gone soft from all that overheating.

It makes more sense to do all the tests to know what you've got, then pull it out and rebuild as necessary. This may involve a whole other engine but you can get a short block and swap over all your parts to make it go again.

Mechanical sympathy goes a long way to keeping an engine in good condition.

[ClanFever]

I'm going to create round 2 of this build in another topic. Going to try and get more photos and be more informative. Will start it once the car is at it's new home. Got a Toms spoiler and Toms snorkel, I've had both for nearly 2 years to chuck on, got some cleaning up to do and an engine to overhaul! Got an LSD to chuck in, going to install a 280mm steering wheel, going to brighten up the speedo clusters, fix the fuel gauge just to name a few plans for it. Got a guy who will help me fix up my intake pipes and I wouldn't mind getting an adjustable exhaust tip (just a valve that you can open and close - can either buy an expensive pre made one or make my own). Step 1: Rent my own place with my own garage.

[Swampy]

I wouldn't mind getting an adjustable exhaust tip (just a valve that you can open and close - can either buy an expensive pre made one or make my own). Step 1: Rent my own place with my own garage.

IIRC they aren't legal if manually controlled. I've thought about this too and wanted it linked to RPM (somehow...)... I think 3000 would be a good option because that's what my SW sits at when 5th gear motorway cruising. It'll stay open when you're driving on the track and twisty roads.

[ClanFever]

I wouldn't mind getting an adjustable exhaust tip (just a valve that you can open and close - can either buy an expensive pre made one or make my own). Step 1: Rent my own place with my own garage.

IIRC they aren't legal if manually controlled. I've thought about this too and wanted it linked to RPM (somehow...)... I think 3000 would be a good option because that's what my SW sits at when 5th gear motorway cruising. It'll stay open when you're driving on the track and twisty roads.

Ahhh I thought they could have been, my mate is naughty then haha! Perhaps have it controlled on throttle position even?