mknz's SW20 (Formerly Alex's)

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mknz
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Re: mknz's SW20 (Formerly Alex's)

Postby mknz » Tue Sep 03, 2019 4:52 pm

GDII wrote:That's helpful information.

The temp for the gauge and ECU have always been separate. Does the GEN4 not have the same gauge sender as the MR2 engines?

No, I assume the gen 4 ECU has PWM output for the caldina gauge, likewise with the tacho instead of the gen 2 era higher voltage igniter output

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GDII
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Re: mknz's SW20 (Formerly Alex's)

Postby GDII » Tue Sep 03, 2019 5:16 pm

I did see the GEN4 water neck doesn't have a small gauge sender. I'll most likely be using my GEN2 with an adapter if I ever get around to this.

The older cars used a single igniter and the individual coils uses a slightly different method to create the signal. Either way even the expensive plug and play looms don't use the black wire to send the signal to the dash. They rely on the end user to purchase an MSD tach adapter for silly money and mess with the wiring that way.
1996 AE101 Corolla Sprint NZ New Daily
1990 SW20 MR2 G-Limited
2005 DY3 Demio
1990 EP81 Starlet XL (Sold)
1990 EE90 Corolla XL (Sold)
Instagram https://www.instagram.com/sw20glimited/

mknz
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Re: mknz's SW20 (Formerly Alex's)

Postby mknz » Wed Sep 04, 2019 8:11 am

GDII wrote:I did see the GEN4 water neck doesn't have a small gauge sender. I'll most likely be using my GEN2 with an adapter if I ever get around to this.

The older cars used a single igniter and the individual coils uses a slightly different method to create the signal. Either way even the expensive plug and play looms don't use the black wire to send the signal to the dash. They rely on the end user to purchase an MSD tach adapter for silly money and mess with the wiring that way.

Correct, https://www.ebay.com/itm/30mm-Radiator- ... 671?_ul=NZ

It still goes down the same wire on the body loom at some point.

Yeah, Americans like that box despite also complaining about it. This is where it seems to have been discovered for the gen 4 https://mr2oc.co.uk/forum/283/161495.html?start=14

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GDII
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Re: mknz's SW20 (Formerly Alex's)

Postby GDII » Wed Sep 04, 2019 8:45 am

I see. Paul Woods discovered where a change would need to be done based on all his other swaps but the other guy found that the 10ohm resistor is needed in place of the factory one. Is it 10ohm or 10,000ohm?

I'll be doing a very in depth write up on GEN4 3SGTE into JDM cars in the future so it will all be covered there. There is nothing available stating exactly the changes needed, people either say get a wiring harness from other suppliers or splice what you think is needed. Both are unhelpful and even the bought harnesses are not ideal to the way I want things working. But in saying that the 5SFE powered USDM cars never had an engine bay cooling fan so that wiring doesn't exist in those cars. I want the intercooler fan controlled by the OEM system. Others may not.

That adapter can work if you are using the OEM GEN4 neck. Again I want the OEM system working as per the factory way. Obviously the GEN3 3SGE or 3SGTE neck is best for this in the MR2. You obviously need the 3SGTE top cap with the turbo coolant feed if you go this route.
1996 AE101 Corolla Sprint NZ New Daily
1990 SW20 MR2 G-Limited
2005 DY3 Demio
1990 EP81 Starlet XL (Sold)
1990 EE90 Corolla XL (Sold)
Instagram https://www.instagram.com/sw20glimited/

mknz
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Re: mknz's SW20 (Formerly Alex's)

Postby mknz » Mon Sep 09, 2019 5:58 pm

Replaced all the shifter bits
Replaced rack with four new tie rod ends and boots
Got taco and temperature sender working
Removed lock nuts with lost key via destructive means
Replaced front rotors and pads with a znoelli set
Bled brakes - right rear had some real nasty fluid in there

Proper post to come TM

mknz
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Re: mknz's SW20 (Formerly Alex's)

Postby mknz » Sun Sep 22, 2019 9:41 pm

I used CJ's guide to replace all the shifter bushes and bits. I also got a gearbox selector bush (square one), but didn't install that yet. I still need to 'clearance' the stock plate for the short shifter and replace a clip I forgot to buy.

Steering is a lot better now. Highly recommend dropping the rack and doing it in a vice. Still need to get an alignment, especially to avoid the light rub (reundercoated and new tires are slightly smaller diameter). Also you need to remove, not just loosen the bottom bolt (i.e read the BGB properly)

I left the rear brakes and TRD fluid 'till November so it doesn't go to waste just sitting outside.

I didn't have time so let a mechanic sort out the leaking heater pipes.
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mknz
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Joined: Thu Apr 03, 2014 1:17 am
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Prime Mover: More than one MR2
First name: Michael
Contact:

Re: mknz's SW20 (Formerly Alex's)

Postby mknz » Wed Nov 20, 2019 4:33 pm

Reconnected the steering U joint in a better position to account for the boss kit. The new tie rod was so stiff the alignment shop managed to start undoing the inner tie rod end, that would have been scary asf. I used some thread locker this time and restaked it (it was done properly the first time, I did it with the rack out). My plan is to pop the boot off in the shop and hold the rack end while they adjust. I also had to guess an alignment since the rack was way over on one side. Both sides are now equal, but there's ~10mm toe in. I got sick of lifting up/down and inconsistent measurements. I'll just take it real easy to the shop.

Tried to bleed the coolant, I need Charlie's magic touch. I always have the worst time bleeding even after trying all the protips.