[SOLD] mknz's SW20 (Formerly Alex's)

[mknz]

That's helpful information.

The temp for the gauge and ECU have always been separate. Does the GEN4 not have the same gauge sender as the MR2 engines?

No, I assume the gen 4 ECU has PWM output for the caldina gauge, likewise with the tacho instead of the gen 2 era higher voltage igniter output

[GDII]

I did see the GEN4 water neck doesn't have a small gauge sender. I'll most likely be using my GEN2 with an adapter if I ever get around to this.

The older cars used a single igniter and the individual coils uses a slightly different method to create the signal. Either way even the expensive plug and play looms don't use the black wire to send the signal to the dash. They rely on the end user to purchase an MSD tach adapter for silly money and mess with the wiring that way.

[mknz]

I did see the GEN4 water neck doesn't have a small gauge sender. I'll most likely be using my GEN2 with an adapter if I ever get around to this.

The older cars used a single igniter and the individual coils uses a slightly different method to create the signal. Either way even the expensive plug and play looms don't use the black wire to send the signal to the dash. They rely on the end user to purchase an MSD tach adapter for silly money and mess with the wiring that way.

Correct, https://www.ebay.com/itm/30mm-Radiator- ... 671?_ul=NZ

It still goes down the same wire on the body loom at some point.

Yeah, Americans like that box despite also complaining about it. This is where it seems to have been discovered for the gen 4 https://mr2oc.co.uk/forum/283/161495.html?start=14

[GDII]

I see. Paul Woods discovered where a change would need to be done based on all his other swaps but the other guy found that the 10ohm resistor is needed in place of the factory one. Is it 10ohm or 10,000ohm?

I'll be doing a very in depth write up on GEN4 3SGTE into JDM cars in the future so it will all be covered there. There is nothing available stating exactly the changes needed, people either say get a wiring harness from other suppliers or splice what you think is needed. Both are unhelpful and even the bought harnesses are not ideal to the way I want things working. But in saying that the 5SFE powered USDM cars never had an engine bay cooling fan so that wiring doesn't exist in those cars. I want the intercooler fan controlled by the OEM system. Others may not.

That adapter can work if you are using the OEM GEN4 neck. Again I want the OEM system working as per the factory way. Obviously the GEN3 3SGE or 3SGTE neck is best for this in the MR2. You obviously need the 3SGTE top cap with the turbo coolant feed if you go this route.

[mknz]

Replaced all the shifter bits
Replaced rack with four new tie rod ends and boots
Got taco and temperature sender working
Removed lock nuts with lost key via destructive means
Replaced front rotors and pads with a znoelli set
Bled brakes - right rear had some real nasty fluid in there

Proper post to come TM

[mknz]

I used CJ's guide to replace all the shifter bushes and bits. I also got a gearbox selector bush (square one), but didn't install that yet. I still need to 'clearance' the stock plate for the short shifter and replace a clip I forgot to buy.

Steering is a lot better now. Highly recommend dropping the rack and doing it in a vice. Still need to get an alignment, especially to avoid the light rub (reundercoated and new tires are slightly smaller diameter). Also you need to remove, not just loosen the bottom bolt (i.e read the BGB properly)

I left the rear brakes and TRD fluid 'till November so it doesn't go to waste just sitting outside.

I didn't have time so let a mechanic sort out the leaking heater pipes.

[mknz]

Reconnected the steering U joint in a better position to account for the boss kit. The new tie rod was so stiff the alignment shop managed to start undoing the inner tie rod end, that would have been scary asf. I used some thread locker this time and restaked it (it was done properly the first time, I did it with the rack out). My plan is to pop the boot off in the shop and hold the rack end while they adjust. I also had to guess an alignment since the rack was way over on one side. Both sides are now equal, but there's ~10mm toe in. I got sick of lifting up/down and inconsistent measurements. I'll just take it real easy to the shop.

Tried to bleed the coolant, I need Charlie's magic touch. I always have the worst time bleeding even after trying all the protips.

[mknz]

Taking note here. Code 21, 33, and 78 which are O2, ISCV, and fuel pump speed

[GDII]

Is that listed for reference or are you actually getting those codes?

[mknz]

Is that listed for reference or are you actually getting those codes?

Getting them. I'm hoping fixing 33 ISCV kills the lamp (and my high idle issue) I don't have any info on whether or not 78 triggers the lamp.

[GDII]

Is that listed for reference or are you actually getting those codes?

Getting them. I'm hoping fixing 33 ISCV kills the lamp (and my high idle issue) I don't have any info on whether or not 78 triggers the lamp.

21 is not a major for now. I'm getting this on the swap I'm doing now but the engine has never got warm so I believe it's that.

33. It's odd you have this problem as it's pinned on aplug that shouldn't be touched. Maybe it doesn't have power going to the valve. This is one of the items that is needed to be connected up to power when doing the swap.

78. That's not fuel pump, that a speed sensor for the rear left wheel in the Caldina. And only from the ABS ECU.
I'm not sure how your fuel pump is setup but it should just be hooked up as per the NA chassis wiring. No speed control should be installed with a resistor or relay.

[mknz]

My dad is being kind enough to carry on the cert mission while I'm away. The ISCV was just missing it's power cable to be connected, it's now done and the CEL is off just some tidy up and it's reinspection time.

[GDII]

That's awesome news! One more step forwards.

[mknz]

Is that listed for reference or are you actually getting those codes?

Getting them. I'm hoping fixing 33 ISCV kills the lamp (and my high idle issue) I don't have any info on whether or not 78 triggers the lamp.

21 is not a major for now. I'm getting this on the swap I'm doing now but the engine has never got warm so I believe it's that.

33. It's odd you have this problem as it's pinned on aplug that shouldn't be touched. Maybe it doesn't have power going to the valve. This is one of the items that is needed to be connected up to power when doing the swap.

78. That's not fuel pump, that a speed sensor for the rear left wheel in the Caldina. And only from the ABS ECU.
I'm not sure how your fuel pump is setup but it should just be hooked up as per the NA chassis wiring. No speed control should be installed with a resistor or relay.

21 - yeah I'll check again later when it's properly warmed up once

78 - I relied on other MR2 forums that were clearly wrong then. Fuel pump turns on just fine for now. I have a manual ECU so it's not for traction, it must be for speed limiting and/or returning to idle at a stop

[GDII]

The fuel pump speed is not controlled by the ECU itself. It is a 2 speed setup. 5-6V (need to check this is correct) and 12V. 78 in the manual found online is not an engine parameter, only ABS. Speed signal for the Caldina comes from the front left ABS sensor, not the gearbox like MR2 or Celica.

OEM 3SGTE MR2 and Caldina, there is a resistor and a relay. NA MR2 did not have this and it is part of the body harness so swapping in a turbo engine normally means deleting the speed control system. You don't normally get a turbo body harness with a turbo swap and definitely not one with a GEN4 swap.

If you follow the wiring diagram for the MR2 and Caldina you will see how it is setup.
12V goes from the C/OPN relay to the Fuel Pump Change relay. The FPR (fuel pump resistor) pin on the ECU switches the relay to either pass 12V directly to the pump or through the Fuel Pump resistor outputting a lower voltage therefore a lower speed.
With the NA system you can see that on the 5SFE diagram or Caldina 3SGE *1 part of the diagram, 12V goes direct from the C/OPN relay to the fuel pump with no ECU intervention or relay or resistor.
The FC pin controls the C/OPN relay providing power to the pump system of each particular car.

You probably already know this but for others reading it might help.