The MR2 Owner's Club of New Zealand

mknz wrote:The W11 served fine for my boost, and twisties fix (luckily, it's been reliable, thanks Charlie)

mknz wrote:luckily, it's been reliable

mknz wrote:it's been reliable

Hmmm...


Good write up.

fine, relatively

Put it back on the crane last night. The box slid right in firt time. The top engine dowel, input shaft, and two top bolts (hand-tightened) were all in, but the bottom bolts didn't want to line up.

Going to try again tonight

After a few different days of retrying to get it to fit and readjusting the clutch plate we finally got all the bolt holes lined up. It's now bolted up to the engine and LHS mount. When I have more time I'll fully reassemble it.

Noooice

Sneaky clutch plate messing with your stuff. Great news.

Ugh, so I put new outer CVs on the axles. Put everything on that and torqued that isn't reliant on the axles.

I tried putting the axles in, but some issues arose:
- The carrier bracket thing needed to be pressed on, [Expletive Deleted] tight fit
- The O2 sensor just touches the centre bearing carrier bolt (the one that tightens on the bearing). The wires are cut so maybe I'll fab a block off plate, but right now I want to drive it.
- The block doesn't have dowels so the axle carrier bracket thing is guided on by bolts
- The driver's side (RHS) axle can go in more but then the bracket doesn't line up and the dust cover that goes over the seal in the transmission has a gap between it and the transmission. I think this is normal though?
- The passenger side (LHS) LSD axle stub ("side gear shaft" in BGB lang) doesn't actually go all the way into the diff (sticks out about 5mm since it's longer just above the circlip notch) so I have to pull it off and use the non-LSD stub. I guess it's for sale now. I'm hoping Jim can use that information to tell me what differential I have, I tried googling for an hour or so but the Americans are just as unsure and confused as I am.

A somewhat useful video from a guy that's active in the FB groups:
https://youtu.be/5kzJjhLH1fA

[youtube-embed]https://youtu.be/5kzJjhLH1fA[/youtube-embed]

Bob Pham has another video showing what axles are what but doesn't say what needs done to make a one fit another.
If it's aftermarket of which it appears to be, only the non-LSD axles will fit. The OEM E153 LSD has a pin through the middle but the open diff on the S54 has a pin too just to confuse things.
This shows the LSD vs non-LSD setup for OEM. Image one is the early open diff and image 2 is the later LSD.

GDII wrote:Bob Pham has another video showing what axles are what but doesn't say what needs done to make a one fit another.
If it's aftermarket of which it appears to be, only the non-LSD axles will fit. The OEM E153 LSD has a pin through the middle but the open diff on the S54 has a pin too just to confuse things.
This shows the LSD vs non-LSD setup for OEM. Image one is the early open diff and image 2 is the later LSD.

It's clearly aftermarket because only non-LSD axles fit, and the pencil sized hole, but the Americans claim some diffs accept LSD stubs

A swaybar link died, I didn't have enough time to fix it. So pissed off that I had two I couldn't drive

Dontcopy wrote:Yeah my speedo is now 6kmh out. Anyone know if that will cause an issue for a WOF?

Check it against a GPS you might find it to be OK
WOF guys wont notice (if you don't have a GPS in the car )

*84vvt wrote:

Dontcopy wrote:Yeah my speedo is now 6kmh out. Anyone know if that will cause an issue for a WOF?

Check it against a GPS you might find it to be OK
WOF guys wont notice (if you don't have a GPS in the car )

Doesn't matter now that I have new rear tyres

Just yank the needle off the speedo dial and put it back in the right place. Actually bad idea.

I had to do this when I swapped over my 180kph JDM speedo to my NZDM 260kph speedo. Now my 245/40R17 reads exactly right, I'm no longer 4kph out.

The Americans lied in https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.mr2oc. ... ml%3famp=1
aka
https://www.mr2oc.com/63-interior-modif ... ics/588329

The top contact is positive for the dash cluster LEDs

Gen 4 wiring
The green and yellow wire leaving the engine fuse box is the temp sender wire which you can plug into a TTS006 (stock gen 2 replacement) which you can thread into a hose joiner off eBay. You can't plug this into the ECU.

The solid black wire leaving the bigger white plug from the engine bay fuse box is the tach, goes to the tach from the gen 4 ECU, but you'll need to replace this resistor with a 10K ohm

That's helpful information.

The temp for the gauge and ECU have always been separate. Does the GEN4 not have the same gauge sender as the MR2 engines?