4AGZTE winter project

[Mike n Rochelle]

As requested I will run a build thread for this years winter project. I have got my hands on a sc14 from memory ,upgraded crank pulley aftermarket 16v cams turbo etc from a Levin and as I got it for the right price I decided what the hell lets play with a twin charged AW

So far I have only started cleaning out the garage to make room for it all and have started doing some research as to what options there are for plumbing etc.
I will be running a megasquirt ecu and a block ex one of my 20v engines, I am still to decide on the head will come down to the result of the 16v heads trip to the engine reconditioners to see it the stuck valves are the end of the head or not.

As for the car I bought a 84 that only has a patch of rust in the bottom of the b pillar to have fixed and it will be ready for paint so that's a big plus. It was going to be towed to auto x's but its too good for that so Its going to be the base
There is no carpet, sound deadening, AC, dash etc at the mo that is a bonus as I intend to keep the car as light as poss and wire up the car from scratch where needed to simplify and keep weight down.
It will have jamex fix back buckets and will be looking to at least half cage it along with full bright yellow paint to match the exterior colour once painted.
The car came with some gutted doors but I have at the moment anyway put std doors back on, I will look at my options there as it would be good to put the gutted doors back in as they are mega light

No decisions on suspension yet but I have a set of struts with king springs and koni yellows in the fronts that are in my 20v that I liked the feel of so I may tax them and I have a full bush kit sitting in there packs ready to go in.

Brakes will be gt4 twin pots in the front and sw20 in the rear as I have them here already and braided lines that are sitting here waiting for me to use them.

Wheels will be 17" lenso rs5's off my 20v and will require the guards to be rolled and pushed out a bit to stop the scrapes that yellow was so good at in the corners

front and rear strut braces will be fitted and I will probably not fit a rear swaybar as the 20v only had that and yet again the car always felt good even while being pushed a wee bit to hard

Will put up pics as I take them but at this point I have not got anything to put up for you to see.

[Statek]

Excite! I will be watching this space!

[mickeyduck]

Indeed!

As for "nothing for pics"... you've described all manner of things. Gizza look at the raw ingredients, so we can truly appreciate the brew as it comes together!

I do have one question: will this be a road legal car or a track toy?

Cos I'm also interested in just what kind of lightening mods you can get away with in a road legal car. Eg gut the doors and fit polycarbonate "glass"... Polycarb rear window.. etc

Bring it on, the more pics and info the better! Projects like this are the stuff of legend.

[Mike n Rochelle]

Yea that's where my issue lies, What can I lighten remove or replace if I want to drive it on the road as I would rather have the car road legal so I can use it for daily duty when required and it also means I don't need to use the abar to move it about the countryside I will be talking to a cert guy about all this when I get a chance
I am guessin that I cant gut doors without replacing the strength it adds to the car so it might mean a cage or maybe just just a frame around the cut out. as for lightening guards etc it would be awesome if I can get fibreglass guards etc but reality is I probably want the weight out of the back not the nose

[mickeyduck]

I saw a rota powered 3 series beamer at the 4's n rotas with a ton of holes cut out of the body, wherever possible, like with an inch wide hole saw.

Holden used to acid bath the chassis / body of the XU1 Toranas they prepped for Bathurst in Brockie's day, to lighten them up. Made the steel almost porous.

Maybe tricks like that, with a cage?

We need a copy of the certifier's handbook...

[Mike n Rochelle]

The handbook would be great

[Grrrrrrr!]

So pony up the $$ and buy it, or the closest thing to it you can.. http://hotrod.org.nz/Merchandise%20Page ... Manual.htm, the rest of the information is probably in the threshold guide and VIRM which are freely available online.

Also, no way you are going to get away with removing frontal or side impact protection without adding a cage. At which point you will find it sucks large hairy ones to use on the road as a daily. If you are going to do more than replace bolt on panels with FRP or CFRP you may as well remove from the road, a tow vehicle and trailer might work out cheaper.

MR10 or AR2 polycarb windows are doable on motorsport authority card, but not cheap, and weight saving is not huge.

[Ash Kelly Barr]

Any idea on twin charge set up? SC12 and T28 or are you going for something a bit more?

[Mike n Rochelle]

looks like I will be going for standard doors and saving weight by putting in lighter seats and removing all the sound deadening radio etc heaps of weight in little things that you don't realy need

[Mike n Rochelle]

Hope to collect the parts tomorrow but I have a feeling that its a sc14 cant remember what the turbo was but think It was a garret item, I have a t3t4 sitting here too

[Mike n Rochelle]

Finally collected the first of the parts today.

16v head. Looks like new inside but has some stuck valves so I will get it down to the engine reconditioners to see if its any good.
HKS BOV looks to be the same one that the twincharge kit had.
SC12 supercharger looks to be good the clutch is on all the time so I will have to see why and fix it.
HKS cast exhaust manifold.
Garret turbo. No idea what it is but its a t3 flange and has B.C.C AR50 cast on the compressor housing.
And last of all a toda r inlet cam with 7.9 and 264 stamped on the end also a non marked cam brand wise with 679 stamped on the end of it.

The intercooler of the 101 gze came with it too and the complete block is still to come so I will measure the SC pulley when I get that to add to the list.

Going to use a electronic throttle body to operate the bypass off the ecu and water to air. Hope to get the block this week so I can see what else is worth using off it and go from there

[Mike n Rochelle]

Have now got a Subaru complete water to air setup on the way, its got the water sensor in it that's a bonus as I can rig a light up to warn me when its getting low and maybe connect it to the ecu to protect the engine if the cooler runs low on water. I possibly already mentioned this but I also got my hands on a late model Holden electronic throttle body to use as the bypass valve, its similar to the setup I found on the net the only difference being that they used a Nissan throttle body.

[Ash Kelly Barr]

FlyBy wire throttles a good idea for a bypass! Might look into this for my SC set up
What's the engine going to be?
Ae101 block
I hear your looking for a BT head?
If so these would be cool if you go 20v, http://www.trademe.co.nz/732734560" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Then again if the 101 pistons are sweet could be cheaper to get them fly cut and your'd still have higher comp

[Mike n Rochelle]

After allot of reading and rubbish info I decided to keep the smallport head and it is now at the engine re-conditioners getting stripped to see if its going to be reusable.
The rest has been decided....
Block ex silvertop in my yellow one
Rebuilt balanced garret turbo
HKS exhaust manifold
16v smallport head
the aftermarket cams I have from the head
MRP rods and new gze pistons
sc12 supercharger
HKS bov
Subaru water to air
Megasquirt ecu
14psi sc pulley
modified silvertop sump
Sard rising rate fuel pressure reg
modified cam covers
Holden v8 throttle body as a bypass valve
and a air to air intercooler will also possibly be used to further assist with keeping the intake temps down as once tuned I want to be running the turbo at about the 20-24psi mark once tuned.
Exhaust will be custom made.

[mickeyduck]

Man, this is gonna be NUTS...!!!