the smile maker

[flying_wedge]

I had the same look with a replacement aluminium radiator - looked like fmic
To make this look a bit better, and to help preserve the life of the fins from stones etc, I got a length of body kit mesh in black and covered the front of the radiator with this

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 104252.htm

Still not as subtle as I would like, but better.

[85AW20v]

You could just spray the bits you can see of new one with a bit of black spray bomb, like the original....

[blown]

actually thought about putting that mesh stuff into the original plastic piece infront of the radiator. may paint it yet, want to find out if the car works first

this is just the 2 radiator pipes up front, was almost the same that came from the rubber pipes in the engine bay

could put mesh into the old plastic to give it more of a chance, may double mesh it if I can get enough in there

this was how I tackled getting the inner cv's back together after cleaning them as they got all dirty in transport funny it worked brilliantly as it was getting so frustrating not having 50 hands to hold everything while trying to solve the puzzle ugh... spray paint rattle can lid

at first I thought my car was bone stock. that pulley is huge though around 175mm? seeing as how I've never seen another 4agze I didn't know, glad I didn't buy a bigger pulley.. planned to awesome though now I can justify getting a boost gauge lol

and now came the easy part... having dual engine cranes is wicked makes it really easy to do

had to lift the car first then place second hook onto motor to get the weight off the trolley

had to use a jack to lift the gearbox as I only had the lift on the motor.. lol priorities finally after all that I got it near enough on the floor

and here i started to slowly lower the car down about 3/4 of the way. then lifted to motor up then started lining up the mounts and as of right now its all 100% mounted and I even started putting the plugs back in..

just another random thing is dad found a better oil cooler without AN fittings <-- cost around $30 each. looks like it might have been a cooler off a diesel 4x4, its a nice 12row with some nice mounts and I've found a perfect place for it already just need to try fix the fins with a screwdriver

so over the weekend i'll try to put all the plugs back in and bypass the inhibitor switch so it will start. might put the axles in so I can get some gear oil in. only thing that's the big issue is the clutch line isn't finished so even if I get it all back and even running.. its not going anywhere but atlest that will stop me from rushing and missing something important and killing the car in one way or another.

[Malcolm]

A quick note for you about the cv joints you put back together: there are two ways to do it, one is quite easy but is WRONG and the joint will not pivot at all, the other way seems impossible but once you somehow get it together it is right and the joint pivots freely with just a bit of drag from the grease... I think you might want to check whether you got it right or not

[Malcolm]

Actually the bad news is I can definitely tell it is wrong from the picture. The inner race needs to be rotated round one sixth of a turn from the outer race. The correct orientation has the narrow gaps of the inner race lined up with the wide gaps in the outer race (if that makes sense).

[85AW20v]

I see what you mean Malcolm. If you look closely, you can see that the balls don't look quite right in relation to the outer grooves. The way it is looks like it should work.....

[Ash Kelly Barr]

Interesting about the ae101 supercharged flywheel
I wanted to go to an E58 but that would then mean I'd need a 230 flywheel and clutch :/

Where did you pick up ya rad from?

Nice work! See if it'll make the next run maybe??

Have you pulled the plastic out of the front guards yet?

[blown]

Actually the bad news is I can definitely tell it is wrong from the picture. The inner race needs to be rotated round one sixth of a turn from the outer race. The correct orientation has the narrow gaps of the inner race lined up with the wide gaps in the outer race (if that makes sense).

hmm thanks so much for that lucky I've got some more grease so i'll have to clean it out and start again, oh the joy of learning

[Ash Kelly Barr]

Second that ^

[blown]

Interesting about the ae101 supercharged flywheel
I wanted to go to an E58 but that would then mean I'd need a 230 flywheel and clutch :/

Where did you pick up ya rad from?

Nice work! See if it'll make the next run maybe??

Have you pulled the plastic out of the front guards yet?

just a guess but i'd say the 225mm flywheel would work I think the flywheel diameter is the same, just different bolt/dowel spacing and a 5mm difference in clutch surface but i'm no expert

rad was from redline performance on trademe pretty cheap and the welding is tip top

don't think i'll be on any runs till its been going for atlest 1000k's to make sure it's all going good

car is pretty rust free as it's always been undercover and it never had sideskirts to hold dirt along the bottom although its had a few surface bits cleaned up by previous owners so i'd assume theres more hiding somewhere and i'll find it eventually but i'll have alook behind there this weekend so I can sleep

[Malcolm]

hmm thanks so much for that lucky I've got some more grease so i'll have to clean it out and start again, oh the joy of learning

No problem. You don't really need to clean the grease out if you've already got fresh stuff in there.

[85AW20v]

I see what you mean Malcolm. If you look closely, you can see that the balls don't look quite right in relation to the outer grooves. The way it is looks like it should work.....

Should have written it "looks like" it should work but won't. Apologies for any confusion!!

[blown]

Yep I know the meaning if frustration now spent an hour trying to make it go back together I can only get 2 balls in before it collapses from dropping it. Big groove/small groove. I had small/small large/large so I know what its ment to look like so ill have another bash today but ill have collect all the thrown spanners and screwdrivers first man this sucks so bad

[GDII]

I'm not sure if this is the same as the Toyota one but this video makes it look really easy to reassemble the balls and the cage.

Part 1 http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=LsytyVzokBg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Part 2 http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=KOma2BMhrzc" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I've never tried this myself so I have no idea.

[Malcolm]

Yep I know the meaning if frustration now spent an hour trying to make it go back together I can only get 2 balls in before it collapses from dropping it. Big groove/small groove. I had small/small large/large so I know what its ment to look like so ill have another bash today but ill have collect all the thrown spanners and screwdrivers first man this sucks so bad

The videos GDII posted are for the right joints and should explain it, for some reason they're taking too long to load on my computer. From memory, the best technique is to take the inner race, the cage and all the balls - assemble all these together (struggling the whole time to hold all 6 balls in place).

Lay the outer race flat on the ground (or a work bench).

Sit the assembled inner race/cage/balls on top of the outer race with the correct alignment.

Hold the cage down and carefully lift the inner race up, away from the outer race, making sure the balls follow the tracks (they should all slowly move apart as the inner race comes up)

When the inner race is nearly pulled out so far that it is no longer supporting the balls, the balls should now be in the exact right positions to slot easily into the outer race, and you should be able to lower the inner race and balls down and in.