My SW20 - Dandism-life

[JasonFriday13]

Also check the timing with a timing light. When I bought a gen 3 NA engine for my project several years ago, I found that the timing was 5 degrees advanced from where it should be.

One day I will meet you Jason, may you check my timing?

Sure, but there are other mechanically minded people up in Auckland that can do the same job for you. They can also teach you some basics if you want to learn to work on your car.

[Swampy]

Car passed WOF easy with 8mm of tread on front and 6mm on rear tyres, brakes fine too.

WOF, Registration, all boring but (important) stuff been taken care of.

Only engine "knocking" is only heard at low speeds, more pronounced in 1st gear though I suppose as others have suggested it may not actually be serious because it's not heard at higher revs. Higher octane has helped

Also found out that timing belt was changed at 150,000kms (many years ago though, I think this car wasn't driven as a daily commuter)

Got pissed off driving in a rather dirty car, so recently gave it a clean. It took me the whole afternoon to do this:

No full pics, because I finished when it was dark and I didn't do a great job. Got to practice and learnt that dual action polishers are 100x more effective than doing it by hand. First time using two bucket method too - I used a piece of 2 dollar "german style cloth" held down at the bottom of one bucket by rinsed pebbles from the garden. Worked kind of as a cheap alternative to using sieves or purpose built stuff to keep sediment getting back on your cloths.

At least the shit some kid(s) drawed on the side of my car is off, and that those stickers are gone. My paint is kind of dodgy, but here's hoping Mr Shiny can see to that

I've also tried to fit a new trade me gear stick knob, but no success with that. How was I supposed to know the thread bit is like 10cm deep in the knob?!?! Will have to get an extender thing or just put up with my loose knob which has knackered threading. Got a 12mm adapter too, but that didn't even fit. It really is a pain in the butt moving side to side when shifting.

Upcoming -
Fuel system cleaner add to petrol - just another measure to address the detonation issue, I had $20 credit on my SCA card so thought why not.

Pass restricted

Oil change

See if other fluids such as transmission/coolant need doing

Remove rubber bits/carpet etc and check for rust (dont want to break rubber seals etc just yet)

Mr Shiny treatment

[GDII]

Your car looks like it has been repainted before. Lots of orange peel that is not factory plus 3J6 red never had a clear coat over it which I can see is peeling too.. Hopefully Mr Shiny can do something with that.
These cars don't tend to rust unless they have been damaged or water has managed to get inside and sit for a long time.

[Swampy]

Your car looks like it has been repainted before. Lots of orange peel that is not factory plus 3J6 red never had a clear coat over it which I can see is peeling too.. Hopefully Mr Shiny can do something with that.
These cars don't tend to rust unless they have been damaged or water has managed to get inside and sit for a long time.

Here's some more pics which suggest repainting. I've noticed some light white and yellow splatter on one panel too. Probably repainted because reds from this era often don't age well. Honda reds are a good example.

Also my shift knob has snapped off today due to anger while shifting. Mitre 10 suggested I get in contact with EDL fasteners who may have the part I need. Til then it's driving with no boot and no knob.

[Mr Shiny]

All good on doing a tidy up! That panel next to the engine cover looks like the clear is lifting, which really means it would need a complete repaint. Probably easier to find a second hand one at a wreakers or someone might have a spare?
The white on the mirror is just excess wax build up from over zealous application! In a lot of cases you will find that wax dries white over a few months or so & will appear in all manner of cracks & gaps & around badges. Most people still think that more is better, but that's not true.

[Swampy]

Found a solution to my gear knob problem, got a Sparco one from Redline Performance in Penrose (spotted a nice de-reg'd Celica GT-four parked in the area too, not for sale though).

Looks alright and isn't hollow aluminium like I first feared, weighted nicely too and helps shifting. More importantly, it fits and doesn't move.

Filled up with Wynn's fuel additive, don't want to comment on performance etc just yet but feels a little sweeter. There's plenty of videos on YouTube where spark plugs are removed and thin cameras go down and show the removal of carbon deposits in valves. In most it does an average job. Tyres are now running 34 PSI at the rear and 30 PSI at the front - as opposed to 25 all round and 20 on one rear tyre lol.

Some minor noise still coming from rear right tyre, instructor thinks it is the diff perhaps because the car may've seen track use and the diff may be worn. It's usually heard at speeds less than 30km/h. Hopefully it's nothing too major. Just when I change my oil, I will also do the transmission/diff fluid in addition to all the other fluids.

[JasonFriday13]

Some minor noise still coming from rear right tyre, instructor thinks it is the diff perhaps because the car may've seen track use and the diff may be worn. It's usually heard at speeds less than 30km/h. Hopefully it's nothing too major. Just when I change my oil, I will also do the transmission/diff fluid in addition to all the other fluids.

This could be wheel bearing, brake caliper, handbrake, or brake pads. As long as the noise doesn't get worse as you go faster, then it's not a major problem (you can still drive it around just be a bit more cautious).

[Swampy]

A bit further down the line but I am really keen on these wheels:

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HRE 505m wheels - Unfortunately, they are too expensive as one wheel may cost just as much as what I bought my car for. They are custom-made and built to order, and American-made.

I have found the exact wheels I like, albeit replicas - http://www.superformance.co.uk/308/wheels.html All depends on if the Italian Ferraris share the same PCD as our JDM Ferrari, if they're compatible really. Keeping an eye out for 17x8 fronts 17x9 rears with 35+ offset.

Though it is possible that I just get other wheels I really don't want to as I love the look of those 5 spokes and they really are unique. I have considered Enkeis/Motegis/Work, but they just won't make me smile like these ones will. Not keen on spacers either.

[JasonFriday13]

I actually like Ferrari like wheels, mine are similar:

[nightz]

I also have the 5 spoke wheels.

[Swampy]

5 spokes are sweet! I love the chunky, old school style, I think they suit this kind of car very well.

Borbet do/did a type which is popular on 80s German rides, such as the Mercedes-Benz 190E

borbet design bo 1.jpg (47.51 KiB) Viewed 2582 times

I think the AW11 is spoilt for choice when it comes to wheels, it suits a range of beautiful 80s wheels, whereas SW20 is a bit of an anomaly, not so much an 80s car and it doesn't fit in with the typical Japanese sports car crowd. I like Enkeis and such, but I'd feel as if I were wearing Timberlands with skinny jeans if I were to have bread and butter JDM wheels on my SW20. However I must say that some cars on here they definitely work and look fine.

[Swampy]

Just out of interest are those 16s or 17s guys?

[Mattaw11]

Aw11 are the wrong stud pattern for most old japaniese wheels being 4x100 not 4x114 like all your other 80s jap cars

[JasonFriday13]

Just out of interest are those 16s or 17s guys?

Mine and nightz cars are both 16's.

[Swampy]

Some very nice wheels there

Saw this Volvo today which was rocking some very sweet 5 spoke wheels.

I wish I could have them. According to the net they are 5x108 though