The MR2 Owner's Club of New Zealand

How do you fit 6" speaker in the rear?

I have installed 5" speakers in the doors and moved the 4" factory door speakers into the rear panels in place of the tweeters. I managed to score a cheap factory 6" subwoofer and box in excellent condition and it made the sound so much better. My factory amps are bypassed and I'm just running off the head unit. My car didn't have the sub when I got it but it's really good for a small 25 year old speaker.

Glad you are enjoying the manual car. I struggle to drive autos due to them having a mind of their own for gear changing, even in manual mode they suck. They are not fun at all, I have to control everything in the car.

I think my problem is once I start I will want to do a full job. My last car i took out everything (seats, carpet, door panels) just to make it look like a stock setup. It was fun and I learned a lot but I don't think I can get as much out of it this time so I'd rather spend the money else where. The front speakers are already aftermarket (nothing fancy) and the sound is not amazing but good enough for now.

GDII wrote:How do you fit 6" speaker in the rear?

I have installed 5" speakers in the doors and moved the 4" factory door speakers into the rear panels in place of the tweeters. I managed to score a cheap factory 6" subwoofer and box in excellent condition and it made the sound so much better. My factory amps are bypassed and I'm just running off the head unit. My car didn't have the sub when I got it but it's really good for a small 25 year old speaker.

Glad you are enjoying the manual car. I struggle to drive autos due to them having a mind of their own for gear changing, even in manual mode they suck. They are not fun at all, I have to control everything in the car.

Where does the sub go? behind the passenger seat? I think my car would have had it at some point in its life since there are some holes and lots of unused cables.

How do you fit 6" speaker in the rear?

Maybe I put the 6" ones up front, can't really remember. I do recall cutting a little sheet metal out from rear to get speakers in.

So crazy weather over the new year some how led to a list of events that ended with a concrete block on my frunk lid. It had dug in and exposed the metal and made one big dent I dont think I could have fixed. So I managed to find a replacement thanks to clawnz, and he was even kind enough to help me with the install (took 5min as opposed to the 1 hour it would have taken me ). The colour wasn't a perfect match but I don't think you would notice unless you looked for it. Also managed to get the parts to fix up my spoiler side parts so now the car is looking a lot more whole!

Gave it a quick wash (while checking for leaks every 3 minutes) and tomorrow if the weather allows I will put some wax on it. The photos make it look more pink than it is. Also really need to get the fuel filler cap painted, really looks out of unmatched.

I was thinking of buying these, seller is not sure of the offset but the tyres are 205/40/r17 and 245/35/17 based on the websites I've been reading up on sw20 fitment they should fit.

Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks!

I guess the rim widths look like 8 inch front, 9 inch rear. An offset in the mid to high 30's should fit just fine, though you might get some rubbing if the car has been lowered or turning really hard.

I didn't end up getting the wheels, I have a wedding to attend in Melbourne so that took priority.

I have been having some trouble with the car though. On two occasions I thought it was a flat battery but if i held the key in the ignition long enough it would start (crank?). So I'm guessing thats an ignition problem and I have to go look for a bad ground? Any advice on that would be appreciated.

My other issue was the brake lights staying on, I had a look at the contact switch and for now managed to slip something in there to make it work, the brake wasn't pushing the contact in far enough to make the lights switch off. Looks like something broke off based on what I've been reading. Any idea on how I can go about buying a new one. I don't actually know what to goggle.

Besides these issues its been great driving in this weather, no AC means the top has to come down as often as possible.

Can you adjust the switch on the pedal to get it to turn off when it should? Unless something is broken like you say.

It could be a grounding issue or your starter solenoid isn't happy.
There are a few ground points for the engine, one on top of the gearbox, one off the head on the rear right hand side of the engine bay and one for the ECU on the back of the intake manifold. The starter earth's through the starter housing, through the gearbox casing and either off to the cable on the gearbox to chassis or through the block, head then to chassis. Make sure the connections are corrosion free and are metal on metal. Paint can cause grounding issues as can corrosion.

GDII wrote:Can you adjust the switch on the pedal to get it to turn off when it should? Unless something is broken like you say.

I just assumed something was broken based on what I had been reading, I have no clue what it looked like before and I can't quite make out any detail from the manual. I will look to see if I can adjust it, hopefully shouldn't be too hard and act as a good permanent solution.

GDII wrote:It could be a grounding issue or your starter solenoid isn't happy.
There are a few ground points for the engine, one on top of the gearbox, one off the head on the rear right hand side of the engine bay and one for the ECU on the back of the intake manifold. The starter earth's through the starter housing, through the gearbox casing and either off to the cable on the gearbox to chassis or through the block, head then to chassis. Make sure the connections are corrosion free and are metal on metal. Paint can cause grounding issues as can corrosion.

Thanks for that, I will try to find these points and see what I can muster up. Will it be a case of being able to identify the problem using a multimeter or do I have to go through and fix all these points regardless.

The brake switch probably isn't broken because it's working sometimes. Try adjusting the switch position, you'll see how to adjust it just by looking at it. Things wear out so the pedal or switch might just need a tweak.

It's always good to check the ground points, if they aren't good there is potential for the accelerator cable to become a ground point and set the car on fire. This is what Benckj says but I've not heard or read about this before but I've not looked. Worst case scenario.

Im not 100% sure on how to test for this but I suspect if the starter goes then it's more likely the solenoid inside it not working properly rather than a grounding issue. Maybe someone else can shed some light on this as I've not had this problem on my car so not had to fix it.

GDII wrote:Can you adjust the switch on the pedal to get it to turn off when it should? Unless something is broken like you say.

Yep, the brake switch has adjustable travel. Just unplug the cable, undo the lock nut and adjust until the lights go off. Then tighten up the lock nut again.

The brake light switch contacts a rubber grommet that fits into a bracket on the brake pedal. The rubber gets hard with age and brakes leaving the switch plunger to fit into the hole in the bracket and leaving the lights going. I have had to replace this grommet on two of my cars part number is 90541-06036, should only be a few bucks from Toyota, they are only a buck each from amayama.
Cheers

Awesome! thanks to everyone for the help. I will adjust it until I figure out the ordering things from Toyota since there are a few things I want to get.

I've been doing a few things over the past few weeks, managed to do an oil change without a jack, went and got my gearbox oil changed (mechanic) and refreshed the seals on the T tops as I didn't do a great job of it first time round. I've essentially been trying to tick of the suggested changes in the 'what to do with your new sw20' thread. Next up is CAP ASSY, DISTRIBUTOR, ROTOR ASSY, DISTRIBUTOR CORD SET, COIL & SPARK,W/RESISTIVE. I assume its not necessary to change all of these but I figured it would be nice just to get everything done and new over a weekend. I am also looking at replacing the plugs but I figured I should check them before I go out and buy new ones. Is there a way to tell when to change Ir or Pt plugs? Also is there anything else I should be changing? I plan to get all the parts from Toyota which have quoted me around $200 not including the plugs.

I should add the reason im doing all this is because I don't think the car is running as smooth as it should be. I could be wrong but I figure its a good experience anyway!

knuckles61 wrote:Is there a way to tell when to change Ir or Pt plugs?

Generally, no there isn't. The only rule of thumb is how many km's plugs have done since new. If you don't know that, I would suggest putting new plugs in. If you aren't doing plugs, it's kind of pointless doing leads, cap, and rotor. Generally it's plugs, then cap and rotor, then leads.