Spykerwolf's 1992 SW20

[Spykerwolf]

Thanks guys. Yeah I know what a capacitor is, just not sure what that exact one does.
All good though, I'll replace it and see if it fixes my stalling issue.

[GDII]

Just go to Jaycar and get one. Or order from ebay or other places like that.

[Spykerwolf]

Just go to Jaycar and get one. Or order from ebay or other places like that.

I might try one from Jaycar, but from that article:

WARNING: You must use premium Japanese low-ESR capacitors for this repair to be successful, this kind of capacitor is very rare, they do not stock it locally, you must order it from the links below!

[GDII]

Well they could be right but no one else has pointed this out before.

10 for $3 + $290US shipping sent to Youshop then $12-15. So still around $25 to you. I don't see a normal $0.83 one from Jaycar being an issue but maybe it is. I've got 2 in my tacho of the same spec and just installed 2 in Olafs black one. Worked fine for years.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10x-Nippon-KY-1 ... 2756164823

[Spykerwolf]

Found an ECU at the wreckers, but unfortunately I learned that the Gen 1 and Gen 2 ECUs are not hot swap-able.
I tried the Gen 1 ECU in any case, but the car did not turn over.
I bought some replacement capacitors from Jaycar and resoldered them into my old ECU.

Installed the original ECU and took it for a test drive around the block 2 times last night - no issue.
Of course today when I go to test it the car decides to stall at the beginning of my street.
The car turns over but instantly dies. Somehow with luck we got it started and drove it back to my house - at least it's on the street now...

I'll look at all the fuel/ECU fuses/relays tomorrow. Anyone know how many there are, and where they're located?
Unfortunately I don't have a garage, and can't jack it at mine...so I hope it's not the fuel pump.

[GDII]

There is the ignition relay, EFI relay and Circuit Opening (C/OPN) relay. These are all located in the the engine bay fuse box.

The Ignition relay powers the injectors and the igniter.
The EFI relay powers the fuel pump via the C/OPN relay. It also powers lots of other items in the system, too many to list but I don't think this is the issue.
The C/OPN relay powers the fuel pump and gets a few signals from the ECU during starting.

If your old ECU had the code for the igniter then maybe find another on of those to test.

The other test would be to jump the FP and B+ pin in the diag box like before but drive the car to see if this is an issue. If it always runs then it could be the fuel pump circuit. If not then we look elsewhere.

[Spykerwolf]

Thanks man, always helpful.
Will be checking the following things tonight:

- Check ECU for any codes
- Check Ignition coil / leads
- Check Ignition, EFI and Circuit Opening relays
- Check wiring loom near fuse box in engine bay
- Jump Fp and B+ again, and see if the car stays running
- Swap GEN1 ignition coil / leads with GEN1 ECU from a mates
- Swap battery with another one

[GDII]

I think you forget the most important part, the igniter itself. It's the silver part with the large 5 pin plug attached to the coil. Unless that is what you meant when you say ignition coil, replacing the whole setup.

[Spykerwolf]

Oops haha. Yeah that as well

[Spykerwolf]

Tested yesterday
- Check ECU for any codes - Got Code 14 again, so at least I can focus on 1 aspect now
- Check Ignition leads - Leads look fine to me, no corrosion or any visible damage. Spark plugs and area also dry
- Check Ignition, EFI and Circuit Opening relays - Didn't check these since the car started first time, so I drove it back onto my property
- Check wiring loom near fuse box in engine bay - Couldn't see any wetness on / around it

Still to do:
- Jump Fp and B+ again, and see if the car keeps running
- Perform checks as per BGB
- Inspect ignitor
- Inspect distributor
- Swap GEN1 ignition coil / leads with GEN1 ECU from a mates
- Swap battery with another one

[JasonFriday13]

- Inspect ignitor

There isn't much to check, it's basically a heavy duty transistor that connects the coil to Ignition Main Relay for a few milliseconds to charge it up, then goes open circuit to make the spark. It also isolates the ecu from the high voltages caused by the collapsing magnetic field.

[Spykerwolf]

Swapped ECU from an identical 92 NA and problem fixed!
Glad it wasn't the fuel pump at the end

[GDII]

WIN!!! I wonder what is wrong with your current ECU. We may never know.

[Spykerwolf]

No idea, but I have 2 friends having the exact same issue at the moment.
90 GT, and unknown Levin ..same symptoms lol

EDIT: 1 of them replaced the capacitors and that fixed their issue as well.

[Spykerwolf]

Currently troubleshooting an acceleration issue when I'm reaching 80+ on the motorway.
The car will jolt / jerk every few seconds and it seems it mostly occurs when I'm on a flat surface.
Seems to be fine when I drive around 50km zones.

At the moment not driving it as it's really uncomfortable, and I don't want to damage the fuel injectors if it's a fuel issue.
Also driving with 91 octane in the car, so might replace the fuel filter and change to 95.

Someone also suggested it could be a grounding issue or the fuel pump (hopefully not).
Unfortunately I live in swamp-ville so can't jack the car unless I go to a friend's house.

What do you guys think?