Spykerwolf's 1992 SW20

[Logan]

The issue was that the rear pads have a boss on them which has to align with the grooves in the piston. Whoever fitted them didn't do this so the wear face on one of the pads was at a ~30 degree angle with respect to the back face of the pad...

[Spykerwolf]

Been a while since I've posted an update, I'll try and post more frequently
Having a bit of an issue at the moment and I think it's because of a clogged fuel filter.

About 3 weeks ago I started the car, drove for 2 min and the car just turned off by itself. (Fuel light was on, but had plenty of fuel left). Drove to petrol station and it died again. Started it shortly after and filled up. No issues until today (Got about 1/4 fuel left). Drove for about 20 min and once I got to 50km/h the car started shaking (imaging coughing)...and it instantly died. I'll see if I get home tonight

I removed the air intake, checked the TPS and reconnected the IACV, but it didn't make any difference.
I think it might be a clogged fuel filter perhaps? I can try cleaning my throttle body, but I doubt it will be the culprit (unless it was absolutely filthy).

[Benckj]

Sounds like a fuel pump starting to die. Try jumpering FP and B+ and listen for strange noise.

[Spykerwolf]

Sounds like a fuel pump starting to die. Try jumpering FP and B+ and listen for strange noise.

Thanks Jim, I'll try that hopefully tonight. What type of sound should it make?
I drove it after work on Friday, and Saturday as well with no issues at all. Fuel filter looks fine on visual inspection =/

[GDII]

Thanks Jim, I'll try that hopefully tonight. What type of sound should it make?
I drove it after work on Friday, and Saturday as well with no issues at all. Fuel filter looks fine on visual inspection =/

Just a faint buzzing sound.

The fuel filter will only show it's possible problem if you cut it open. Never a bad thing to change as most of these cars probably have never had one done.

[Spykerwolf]

Well it's screwed now. Drove for about 5min and it cut out while I was queuing to turn right.
Trying to start it straight away doesn't work - it will just cut out instantly after turning over.
Waited about 2 min, turned right and waited on the side for a bit.
Got petrol and drove about 5 min again - same thing ... dies without any stuttering.
Don't know how I made it home but the car is sitting there now.

I tried jumpering FP and B+ (ON position, started engine as well). Removing and adding the wire connecting them didn't produce any type of sound.
I did however discover my diagnostic port looks a bit creamy?

[GDII]

Creamy diag port is normal to stop rusty connectors.

Seems like your pump could be dead or something else fuel related. If you crack the nut off the fuel filter and jump the pins again it might tell you the pump is dead as no fuel will spray out. Just be careful and do it on a cold car only, not that it runs anymore to get hot.

[Spykerwolf]

EDIT: Tried pulling error codes, got code 14 . . . but it went away when I removed the EFI fuse.

[GDII]

The code is IGNITION SIGNAL--NO "IGF" SIGNAL TO ECU. So it means the coil isn't sending a firing signal to the ECU. The ECU sees the coil isn't firing and stops. Maybe it's a bad coil.

[Spykerwolf]

The code is IGNITION SIGNAL--NO "IGF" SIGNAL TO ECU. So it means the coil isn't sending a firing signal to the ECU. The ECU sees the coil isn't firing and stops. Maybe it's a bad coil.

Went away when I removed the EFI fuse though, so possibly a code that the previous owner had?

[GDII]

Removing the EFI fuse cancels any codes the ECU had. Try start the car again and drive it then test for codes again.

[Spykerwolf]

Removing the EFI fuse cancels any codes the ECU had. Try start the car again and drive it then test for codes again.

Started and it idled for 10 min without dying.
Turned off, tried for codes again but nothing - all blinking continuously.
Removing ECU tonight for inspection.

[Spykerwolf]

Found this capacitor leaking some juice inside the ECU.

[JasonFriday13]

See here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor.

If you have electronic skills you can just go down to Jaycar and buy another one, and install it yourself. It is polarised though, so it needs to be installed the right way around.

[GDII]

I think he means more along the lines of what that particular capacitor does or what circuit in the ECU it's part of. Quite often the GEN3 3SGTE OEM ECUs have this issue causing mostly idle or running problems. I can't say what circuit this one is part of but replacing it could help your problem. Having a bad capacitor is never a good thing and as these cars get older and older so do the capacitors which only have a short life span. They are the problem of quite a few electronic problems in our ageing cars specifically the tacho and ECUs.