The MR2 Owner's Club of New Zealand

those flappers do tend to be pretty loose and rattly (although when shut they should be held tight against the wastegate ports). It looks like your motion ratio for the actuator might be pretty massively changed from the original design (I guess you clocked the turbo but couldn't move the actuator to match?), keep an eye out for boost creep because the wastegate may not fully open.

Thanks for the tips! Youre probably right.

Havent had much time lately for the car. Trying to sort it out for the cert, but we just had a baby - 2 months old now. Bit annoying that it isnt drivable on the road at the moment, but at least we have another car for family stuff, and I use an e-scooter to get to work anyway. Will probably be able to get back to it soon.

I at least mounted properly the relay panel. Im going to see if anyone has an issue with it before I replace it with the new one, as that will take creative rewiring. Looking for time savings right now. Then replace the turbo oil drain with a more appropriate line, mount the starter button somewhere, and strap down the battery. Oh, and I did some investigation into the low voltage condition, but nothing solid turned up yet. Might just replace the alternator with the known good one that I put on the 20v engine. Oh, and a misfire has reared its ugly head, so thats another annoyance to figure out.

Slow going at the mo.. Hoping to get things sorted out for summer though.

Fixed the "misfire" - was actually the ECU triggering fuel cut due to overboost protection set too low. Bumped it up 10kpa and its running goooooood! Good god, its a freaking rocket ship.

Low voltage issue has largely gone away for now after I raised the idle - itll do for now.

vrtigo wrote:Fixed the "misfire" - was actually the ECU triggering fuel cut due to overboost protection set too low.

Nice. I can't wait to see this thing on a run Cameron. Saw it in your garage a while back and I imagine you'll be a very happy chappie once you can get in there and give it the hiding it's begging for. An AW set up right handles so well, and one with some serious power would just be the shit. I'm kinda jealous...

Yea man, hoping itll be road ready this summer.

Wife gave me Saturday off to work on the car, so tidied up the wiring, ran the loom through grommets, removed the extraneous water temp gauge (though, thought about using it for intercooler water temp!), and mounted the starter motor button. Only thing left thats vital is to mount the PCV catch can, then cert time!

Summer came and went, lol. Babies are a lot of work... then, had surgery, which Im still recovering from, and the lockdown didnt give me much time to work on the car as I was working from home full time.

However...

Catch can is mounted and plumbed up.

I recently opened up the muffler to figure out why its rattling. Found a 10 inch lenght of loose metal. Removed it, welded it back up, and its great again.

The wastegate is loose again, so right now the turbo is running 10psi or so. No biggie. Will fix it another day.

Voltage is spiking again to about 17v, and when it does, it shuts off the Megasquirt CPU. After some time and a key cycle, the voltage will return to normal. I have a fourth alternator on standby, but Im sure the issue is being causing by wiring - probably some intermittent resistance on the sense wire. Will address that some other day.

I think its ready for initial talk with cert guy. Just need some time in the weekends to do so.

vrtigo wrote: ↑

Tue Oct 24, 2017 9:39 am

Eventually I will sell the silver car, hopefully to someone who will repair it and bring it back to road worthiness.

This has now happened - it moved on a couple of weekends ago. It will be restored by another forum member. Makes me happy, I did not want it to go to scrap.

As for my AW: I took it to my WOF guy for a quick look over. He only had a few suggestions to update, mostly around fuel lines and battery tie down. I had questions around my relay panel suitability, but he was fine with it.

I decided to redo it and update the wiring loom anyway. Because I like pain.





It is much better. It utilizes a relay/fuze box sourced from Amazon (with capacity for 6 fuzes and 6 relays), an AmpSeal connector, and a set of relays with built in fuze sockets, which effectively doubles the circuits it can handle. Mounted it all to the plastic backing from the previous relay panel, and all powered through a big 150A main relay, powering a bus bar which itself feeds the relay box. All up, a much better and more robust solution.