1996 MR2 GT-S
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This section of the forum is a great resource if you're looking for ideas, and it's a cool way of obtaining technical information that may otherwise not have been posted. (Members can use the Search functionality at top right of the forum to speed up finding things) Please respect others' contributions and don't diss anyone - keep comments helpful, factual, positive and polite. One thread per vehicle or owner please - don't start lots of threads about just one car. And if you need assistance with your car and want to host a spanner day, please use the appropriate section of the forum: http://mr2.org.nz/phpbb3/viewforum.php?f=35 Thank you.
- GDII
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Re: 1996 MR2 GT-S
mmmm D2. What have you got in there now? I would have gone for Fortune Auto or a Koni/Bilstien and spring setup.
1990 SW20 MR2 G-Limited (GEN4 3SGTE Installed)
2000 AE111R Corolla Wagon NZ New Daily
1996 AE101R Corolla Sprint NZ New Selling Soon
1990 EP81 Starlet XL (Sold)
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- clawnz
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Re: 1996 MR2 GT-S
TRD Springs and Bilstien shocks I think. Still look on the bright side I will be selling them as soon as I am confident I have some suspension now and my tits stop bouncing going down the motorway. My truck had more suspension than Blue. I cannot remember any other vehicle I have ever ridden in that had zero give.
Non adjustable. Yes I could of got softer springs possibly.
Why! mmmm D2 What do you think or know, is wrong with D2 set ups. I know rev1 did have a few issues. But Scarles said these are rev2, and use these on their own cars. Or at least that was what Conner said.
Have fitted backs today and quick run around the block feels good. Though I set them at almost to the same length of the ones taken out they are actually sitting much higher. So will be going back in and lowering. Also set shock to min damping setting. And spring tension at minimum as well. Lots to play with.
Non adjustable. Yes I could of got softer springs possibly.
Why! mmmm D2 What do you think or know, is wrong with D2 set ups. I know rev1 did have a few issues. But Scarles said these are rev2, and use these on their own cars. Or at least that was what Conner said.
Have fitted backs today and quick run around the block feels good. Though I set them at almost to the same length of the ones taken out they are actually sitting much higher. So will be going back in and lowering. Also set shock to min damping setting. And spring tension at minimum as well. Lots to play with.
GDII wrote:mmmm D2. What have you got in there now? I would have gone for Fortune Auto or a Koni/Bilstien and spring setup.
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Re: 1996 MR2 GT-S
While both those blues looked really nice I'm glad to hear you're going to stick with the original colour too Clive. It's a very nice colour and quite unusual. Plus it will mean it matches SWeet as without having to strip the entire car to bare bones. $avings right there...
We need a pic of the new rims mate...
We need a pic of the new rims mate...
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100+ MR2OCNZ runs and counting... When going hard, good rubber's your best protection against unwanted accidents. Buy good tyres!
When you're nearing the end of the drag-strip and you have no 'chute, you may as well keep your foot to the floor... Live life. There ain't no second pass.
Retired - President 2012 - 2018
Retired - Committee Member 2009 - 2018
Retired - Auckland Area Coordinator 2009 - 2018
Retired - Webmaster, Forum Host & Admin 2010 - 2018 - Now it's mknz
Financial Club Member since 2004 and thanks to *84vvt and co-conspirators, Life Member since April 2017
100+ MR2OCNZ runs and counting... When going hard, good rubber's your best protection against unwanted accidents. Buy good tyres!
When you're nearing the end of the drag-strip and you have no 'chute, you may as well keep your foot to the floor... Live life. There ain't no second pass.
- GDII
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Re: 1996 MR2 GT-S
D2 might be good but the dampers aren't as good quality or proper valved as others out there. The ride quality isn't as good as for road use as what I think you might want. From your comments about it being a rough ride, D2 isn't my pick which is why a suggested Fortune Auto. People say the ride is the same if not better than stock.clawnz wrote:TRD Springs and Bilstien shocks I think. Still look on the bright side I will be selling them as soon as I am confident I have some suspension now and my tits stop bouncing going down the motorway. My truck had more suspension than Blue. I cannot remember any other vehicle I have ever ridden in that had zero give.
Non adjustable. Yes I could of got softer springs possibly.
Why! mmmm D2 What do you think or know, is wrong with D2 set ups. I know rev1 did have a few issues. But Scarles said these are rev2, and use these on their own cars. Or at least that was what Conner said.
Have fitted backs today and quick run around the block feels good. Though I set them at almost to the same length of the ones taken out they are actually sitting much higher. So will be going back in and lowering. Also set shock to min damping setting. And spring tension at minimum as well. Lots to play with.
GDII wrote:mmmm D2. What have you got in there now? I would have gone for Fortune Auto or a Koni/Bilstien and spring setup.
I was just curious to know what suspension you had in there before you swapped to D2?
TRD and Bilstien would be a good combination but you can't get new TRD springs and Bilstien Blacks, although good are not really designed for lowering springs. Other Blistiens, yes they are, just not the OEMs. They work well and lots of people use them with lowering springs but to get good ride quality something else would be better. However even a stock MR2 isn't that comfortable to ride in.
Just curious to know what you want from the car in the handling/ride quality department.
1990 SW20 MR2 G-Limited (GEN4 3SGTE Installed)
2000 AE111R Corolla Wagon NZ New Daily
1996 AE101R Corolla Sprint NZ New Selling Soon
1990 EP81 Starlet XL (Sold)
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- clawnz
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Re: 1996 MR2 GT-S
Not to be shaken to bits. The jarring is painful to an old body like mine. I thought I had made it clear this thing is bloody solid and our roads suck. You can see it bobbing (hammering) about even on motorways. Good suspension soaks up bumps and keeps tires in contact with the road surface. I think that is why they invented it.
But when a car is literally bone jarring on a motorway you have to say too damn solid. If you took the shocks and springs out and just bolted solid rods in you would be hard pushed to feel any difference.
That is why I find it very uncomfortable.
The standard set up in the red MR2 was a far better ride than this bone shaker. Even the interior mirror keeps vibrating down.
If I don't like them I will just put a set of standard springs and shocks back in it. But I can tell you I can depress these and I cannot move the ones coming off at all.
But when a car is literally bone jarring on a motorway you have to say too damn solid. If you took the shocks and springs out and just bolted solid rods in you would be hard pushed to feel any difference.
That is why I find it very uncomfortable.
The standard set up in the red MR2 was a far better ride than this bone shaker. Even the interior mirror keeps vibrating down.
If I don't like them I will just put a set of standard springs and shocks back in it. But I can tell you I can depress these and I cannot move the ones coming off at all.
- GDII
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Re: 1996 MR2 GT-S
If the D2s help then that's excellent.
1990 SW20 MR2 G-Limited (GEN4 3SGTE Installed)
2000 AE111R Corolla Wagon NZ New Daily
1996 AE101R Corolla Sprint NZ New Selling Soon
1990 EP81 Starlet XL (Sold)
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- clawnz
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Re: 1996 MR2 GT-S
GD11 I hope it works out also.
Mickyduck here is a pic with my wheel set up.
I scored an exhaust muffler off Rob last night, which is in need of open heart surgery to fix a loose baffle. I can use the B pipe from the red car. Thus keeping the existing one complete, just in case.
The name on it is 'Trust' it's a stainless steel box with twin outlets and looks close to normal MR2. Just big bore, not 3in. But matches my B pipe.
Mickyduck here is a pic with my wheel set up.
I scored an exhaust muffler off Rob last night, which is in need of open heart surgery to fix a loose baffle. I can use the B pipe from the red car. Thus keeping the existing one complete, just in case.
The name on it is 'Trust' it's a stainless steel box with twin outlets and looks close to normal MR2. Just big bore, not 3in. But matches my B pipe.
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Re: 1996 MR2 GT-S
Trust Is Made by Greddy. ITs the Japanese US /JDM brand. MY Sw20 HAs Trust accessory kit on .Good Stuff normally
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- clawnz
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Re: 1996 MR2 GT-S
Managed to fit up the D2 suspenders. The rain slowed me up somewhat.
Did take it out for a run after fitting. Oh Wow! Liked that. Speed bumps feel a lot better, instead of slamming into a curb.
Today was make some adjustments to ride height. There is more to do and play with.
Then it will go for alignment.
Interesting it is so much lighter on the steering. Even without the power steering working. To the point it is pleasant to drive.
A positive step in the right direction.
Did take it out for a run after fitting. Oh Wow! Liked that. Speed bumps feel a lot better, instead of slamming into a curb.
Today was make some adjustments to ride height. There is more to do and play with.
Then it will go for alignment.
Interesting it is so much lighter on the steering. Even without the power steering working. To the point it is pleasant to drive.
A positive step in the right direction.
- GDII
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Re: 1996 MR2 GT-S
That's great to hear. Hopefully you can get the power steering working then you'll have lighter steering again.
I noticed with a massive increase in caster angle (5degrees) on my car that the steering becomes very heavy but that's because you are effectively lifting the car as you turn the wheels. Less caster, lighter steering and it centres more naturally when driving straight but less turn in response.
I noticed with a massive increase in caster angle (5degrees) on my car that the steering becomes very heavy but that's because you are effectively lifting the car as you turn the wheels. Less caster, lighter steering and it centres more naturally when driving straight but less turn in response.
1990 SW20 MR2 G-Limited (GEN4 3SGTE Installed)
2000 AE111R Corolla Wagon NZ New Daily
1996 AE101R Corolla Sprint NZ New Selling Soon
1990 EP81 Starlet XL (Sold)
1990 EE90 Corolla XL (Sold)
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Re: 1996 MR2 GT-S
I hear those D2s are quite good.clawnz wrote:A set of D2 from Scarles Rosebank Road.
Street version. They were having a sell off, so got the set for $900
[urlhttp://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1080244897[/url]
GDII wrote:What coilovers did you get?
Good the hear you staying with the factory blue. It's a really nice colour.
There are a few Caldinas that run them and are quite comfortable...well, relatively speaking.
- clawnz
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Re: 1996 MR2 GT-S
Thank You GDII. Castor. That's what it will be.GDII wrote:That's great to hear. Hopefully you can get the power steering working then you'll have lighter steering again.
I noticed with a massive increase in caster angle (5degrees) on my car that the steering becomes very heavy but that's because you are effectively lifting the car as you turn the wheels. Less caster, lighter steering and it centres more naturally when driving straight but less turn in response.
All booked in for alignment, so that should be interesting.
The power steering is like a woman. It changes it's mind all the time. Sometimes it works, sometimes not.
Yesterday I did not drive the car until late in the afternoon and, what do you know power steering worked from start up.
Maybe it just does not like mornings. It is so confusing as it is so random. Once it starts, it runs fine. Which if it was brushes I would expect it to be intermittent.
This is one of the reasons I have thought a few times I had it fixed and then next day 'No power steering'.
- clawnz
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Re: 1996 MR2 GT-S
Forgetting power steering, I have sorted a few other things.
Like new grill on oil cooler. old one was not doing much except rattling.
There is no front under belly plastic between bumper and body, or inner guard. That was allowing the bumper to flap around.
Which does have a crack in drivers side front. Though I do have plastic panels, fitting did not look like an option due to a few lugs broken.
And the inner guard plastic looks like it would rub. And some of the lugs have been bent out of the way to clear tyres.
So I made up a couple of alloy stays across from bumper to body.
While under the front I also noticed there are no plastic clips holding the bumper in place. Again lucky I have a few of those I have kept from other bodies.
Other than the power steering I am chasing around trying to get heater sorted.
I have made sure the slide control is operating the flaps in the heater box. It does this electrically.
But it is not operating the cable to the water tap in the frunk!
I set up the endoscope yesterday to try and get a picture of where the cable is connected to. failed to get a clear picture.
The control cable is not connected to the front slider control.
I have read up on a few sites that it is, yet I have never seen one like that in the three I have wrecked.
The slider operates a resistor slider, which sends a signal to the control unit on the heater box. And the cable is attached to the lever this operates.
From what I can see it is close to impossible to get to anyway.
Like new grill on oil cooler. old one was not doing much except rattling.
There is no front under belly plastic between bumper and body, or inner guard. That was allowing the bumper to flap around.
Which does have a crack in drivers side front. Though I do have plastic panels, fitting did not look like an option due to a few lugs broken.
And the inner guard plastic looks like it would rub. And some of the lugs have been bent out of the way to clear tyres.
So I made up a couple of alloy stays across from bumper to body.
While under the front I also noticed there are no plastic clips holding the bumper in place. Again lucky I have a few of those I have kept from other bodies.
Other than the power steering I am chasing around trying to get heater sorted.
I have made sure the slide control is operating the flaps in the heater box. It does this electrically.
But it is not operating the cable to the water tap in the frunk!
I set up the endoscope yesterday to try and get a picture of where the cable is connected to. failed to get a clear picture.
The control cable is not connected to the front slider control.
I have read up on a few sites that it is, yet I have never seen one like that in the three I have wrecked.
The slider operates a resistor slider, which sends a signal to the control unit on the heater box. And the cable is attached to the lever this operates.
From what I can see it is close to impossible to get to anyway.
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Re: 1996 MR2 GT-S
What's the current KM's nice to see you with a car of your own now.
- clawnz
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Re: 1996 MR2 GT-S
189,000ks
Motor seems to be in very good order still. Could it have a performance oil pump installed at some point, as it never, even when hot, drops below 20psi at idle. And runs about 60psi when driving.
Today has been sad.
It looks like the power steering is getting worse. Nobody home all morning while running around. That in itself could point at the electric motor I guess.
I had to go and wind up the guy who is going to do the wheel alignment. As they did not phone back last week with my appointment. And I want it done before this weekend for the run to Hampton Downs.
Had a talk with my mate about doing a power steering pump swap, so that may happen this weekend.
Edit:
Just had a play sticking 12volts direct to pump. Huh! What's this wire modification lurking under the rubber cap on top of the motor. Not seen anything like this before.
Snip added bit out and twist wires together. Power steering works. Ok so have soldered wires up and will do some driving later.
Upstairs to sit at desk and do some dissecting of the bit I cut out. refer pics. It looks like a mod similar to what GDII pointed me to on another forum. I.E. Adding resistance into circuit to deal with code 13. If that is the case I may have to rethink the removal of what looks like two resistors. They used that self gluing shrink tube, so going to be a pain to get into there to see what resistance they added.
Motor seems to be in very good order still. Could it have a performance oil pump installed at some point, as it never, even when hot, drops below 20psi at idle. And runs about 60psi when driving.
Today has been sad.
It looks like the power steering is getting worse. Nobody home all morning while running around. That in itself could point at the electric motor I guess.
I had to go and wind up the guy who is going to do the wheel alignment. As they did not phone back last week with my appointment. And I want it done before this weekend for the run to Hampton Downs.
Had a talk with my mate about doing a power steering pump swap, so that may happen this weekend.
Edit:
Just had a play sticking 12volts direct to pump. Huh! What's this wire modification lurking under the rubber cap on top of the motor. Not seen anything like this before.
Snip added bit out and twist wires together. Power steering works. Ok so have soldered wires up and will do some driving later.
Upstairs to sit at desk and do some dissecting of the bit I cut out. refer pics. It looks like a mod similar to what GDII pointed me to on another forum. I.E. Adding resistance into circuit to deal with code 13. If that is the case I may have to rethink the removal of what looks like two resistors. They used that self gluing shrink tube, so going to be a pain to get into there to see what resistance they added.