My 2nd Mr2

[GDII]

If the butterfly has been removed it will impact on the engines design and torque down low. The butterfly closes at over 60% throttle and under 3900rpm creating longer runners giving that extra torque boost. But above 3900rpm it will open up making shorter runners. I'm sure if you just put the butterfly in and it's all hooked up properly with the VSV and vacuum lines it will help the engine go back to how it should be.

[Gleshlich]

If the butterfly has been removed it will impact on the engines design and torque down low. The butterfly closes at over 60% throttle and under 3900rpm creating longer runners giving that extra torque boost. But above 3900rpm it will open up making shorter runners. I'm sure if you just put the butterfly in and it's all hooked up properly with the VSV and vacuum lines it will help the engine go back to how it should be.

Yea that's the plan. At the moment it feels like a turbo kicking in above 4000rpm on WOT but really weak under that. Trying to buy a Camry at the moment to get the parts for it since it'll be easier than sourcing a manifold. Photos would definitely be great to help hook it all up though. I have heard of people re routing some of the hoses so that the flap is closed all the time under 3900 - reasoning being that open flap is for fuel economy on idle and down low?

[blown]

might be a few weeks before i get it back on the motor as i've decided to replace some seals so motor wont be back in today

so heres a picture of my manifold anyways.

the 'wastegate actuator' part vacuum feed from the brown coloured switching valve? hard line runs ontop of fuel rail
the other bigger hose port is the brake booster feed
shiny missing nut was an earth

i think thats all there is unless the 2 valve units near the throttlebody also contribute to acis as well

[Gleshlich]

might be a few weeks before i get it back on the motor as i've decided to replace some seals so motor wont be back in today

so heres a picture of my manifold anyways.

ACIS.jpg

the 'wastegate actuator' part vacuum feed from the brown coloured switching valve? hard line runs ontop of fuel rail
the other bigger hose port is the brake booster feed
shiny missing nut was an earth

i think thats all there is unless the 2 valve units near the throttlebody also contribute to acis as well

Thanks man
My 3vz camry is coming today so hopefully all goes to plan.

[blown]

Today saw quiet abit of progress overall towards getting the engine back into the 2

decided to go 120% into cleaning the motor and also replace the rear main even if it didn't appear to be leaking i just couldn't rule it out and as i had a new one sitting here why not replace it

this was the state of the motor

my dad bought one of those kerosine guns but not having any kerosine... we have a 20ltr of paint thinners that is no good so i filled the gun with that and went to town didn't do much to the oil so plan b was petrol.. and oh man amazing job it did. i raided the lawn mowers container and used about 1 litre i think

when i changed the rear main i cleaned out the sludge from the sump and while that was removed noticed the girdle/baffle plate was super sludgy along with the pickup tube so i spent quite a bit of time and care cleaning those no pictures of these unfortunately

came up really well took most of the day so now thats this is done
-clean the gearbox ready to mate to motor - came without speedo drive, have bought one and its on its way
-clutch & flywheel on engine
-fix broken clutch line
-install new bushes on rear subframe along with the Turbo hubs
list for my own reference so i dont get sidetracked

[blown]

not much done to the mr2 at the moment working 5 and half day weeks doing car stuff then sunday rolls around and i dont want to do car stuff

some minor progress though

flywheel all on, thread locker used and bolts done up tight

clutch and P/plate are on but not tight as i'm waiting for a alignment tool

all rear suspension parts have the bushes removed and ready for the new Noalthane bushes - still have to cut up the engine mounts yet... i see i didnt get the steel inserts for the new engine mounts... hopefully i can use the orginal ones or ill have to go buy some pipe.

when i removed the motor from the 2 the distributor got broken plug smashed unfixable. so i found one at work.

i noticed on my broken distributor that there was abit of oil inside. i opened it up and yup internal seal let go (seems all 90's toyota dizzys suck) so i decided to remove the cap of the one from i scored from work. and oh man what a mess looked like bits of the seal were sitting in the housing...

so i decided i had a broken dizzy why not pull it apart and find out how hard it is to change the seal. not to difficult except getting the pin out looked on the net and found this method. worked well

i did look up a guide on do's and don'ts on pulling apart my distributor first so i can put it back together, measured shaft, marked it etc i'm making sure i put my all into this build unlike some of my earlier cars

so all pulled apart and this it what i was greeted with (This is the new dizzy)

pretty messy. i did manage to clean most of the crude out and off the sides but alot of it is stained and it's not seen and wont effect function so i've left it alone

i have ordered a rebuild kit from Kbox hopefully it'll be here next monday.

i think i'll clean all the rear subframe and control arms and paint them all black so it all looks new and shiny. as i'm replacing the bushes why not make it look like new

actually found out the wheels currently on the 2 are 17 x 8.5 so i think what i'll do is eventually get a full set of potenza re003s and get all the curbing fixed so they're like new and i'll put some cheap as tires on the 17 x 7.5 coon rims to get a cert

[Sinturion]

Bear in mind that whatever you get certed for, you're stuck with - i.e they put the wheel sizes on the cert plate.

[blown]

Bear in mind that whatever you get certed for, you're stuck with - i.e they put the wheel sizes on the cert plate.

i had forgotten about that in regards to certifying. during a wof check would they really bother to check to see how wide wheels are though? will have to think on what i want to do..

been pretty busy these last few weeks

i took 2 days off work along with the weekend and with dads help i managed to get a axle carrier bracket made and get the motor and box back into the 2

was somewhat annoying as i had no idea a e153 rear (south) mount was different to a N/A one and as the person who i bought the gearbox from removed the speedo drive the mount was (lost) so i had to improvise the N/a s54 rear mount is totally different.. i initially tried to slot the holes to fit but the mount ended up being to far out to bolt up.

so as i work at a car wreckers dad found a front mount (north) on a 1nzfe corolla had the same bolt pattern as the E153 so we tried that out but the mount sat tilted.. slotted the hole slightly and job done all mounted up simple as that

i had to fix a broken clutch line aswell and seeing as how mr2's run 1/4'' hard lines i struggled to find anywhere that sold joiners, a engineer firm i found sold brass joiners and had all the bits needed so that sorted that problem

when i fired the 2 up to bleed the cooling system it was pumping out brown foam untill the thermostat opened then it seemed to go normal.... hope its just rusty flecks and not a blown head gasket

so. bleeding mr2 clutches. enough said? very painful ended up getting it all bled clutch worked brilliantly. gearbox felt smooth as. got to a corner just around the block and it wouldnt go into gear at all. so turned off, smashed pedal a few times and away it went again, got it home and it did it again, climbed underneath to have a look and noticed brake fluid leaking out of where i made my join, tightened everything up even more and now i'm at the process of bleeding it again so hopefully that was it, i was told not to tighten the brass joiners up to tight, guess i was to soft

next issue i have gear oil comming out of the RH axle seal in the gearbox. i think we may have ruined the seal when making the carrier bracket because it was sitting hard on the seal when we were mocking up the bracket oh well live and learn

so all rambling aside the car starts and runs and soon should move with any luck then i can finally get on with doing all the little mods i wanted to do aswell as paint the car i also scored some rev3 tail lights and garnish

sorry no pictures the pc is playing up at the moment and wont open any i send from my phone

[blown]

car is fixed, works gearbox is absolutely mint

so this here was actually part of the problem with clutch not engauging, the pedal clevis hole had worn oval about 2 holes in size which caused alot of freeplay the clevis itself was also slightly oval, tried brazing 2 washers but ended up melting the rubber inside the clevis, oh well worth a try. i ended up getting a new/2nd hand clevis off an altezza
we got around the pedal problem by drilling another hole directly below the worn one, doesn't effect pedal movement or bend the push rod

this was the issue i ran into with not getting the rear mount turbo bracket.. a front(north) zze corolla gearbox mount works perfect if the bottom hole is slotted slightly as the E153 bolt holes are offset, i will upload a picture of this at some stage

motor going back in

lastly the bracket to hold the axle simple yet effective. easy to remove the axle too as ive replaced the seal. i've used nuloc nuts as i'm not sure if not having them would effect certifying as i know RWD cars with driveshaft loops must have nuloc nuts

[blown]

right so i haven't updated this for awhile

basically the car is now off the road, rego on hold while i get it ready to be certified for the 3vz-fe

i understand that by certifying the 3vz-fe in its NA form i will need to recertify it again when i turbo it later on to make it a 3VZ-FTE i know i could 100% get it a wof with and without a turbo however i know it wont be covered by insurance if the cert isn't updated

so at the moment the car is parked up, and i am doing various things to get it ready cert

-2 new tyres for the rear
-i am redoing the entire brake system, rebuilding calipers, new rotors, new pads, new brake hoses the works
i have a full set of blank rotors and on the way from usa is a set of front and rear EBC redstuff pads. ended up getting them through You Shop with NZ post as it cost a total of $155 US ($211) nz... shipping was $55 on top from nz warehouse in Portland.

on ebay AU.. EBC redstuff SW20 FRONT pads would have cost me $200 AU+ $70 shipping


now another thing i am pretty unsure of is the seatbelt catches on the seats, the catch itself is bolted to a bracket via a 19mm bolt? but the bracket bolting it to the seat is only 1 12mm. which is unsafe. however i am toying with the idea of aftermarket seats at this stage. however if anyone has information on how the bracket on the seats is supposed to work?

[Benckj]

Good to see the progress and your mods.

On the axles I hope you took some time to re-build the inner CV joints as the cages are a known fail point. I just sold my last CRW heavy duty kit to a local friend.

As you found with the seats the seatbelt slider is not the best design. It is difficult to retrofit onto an aftermarket seat bracket due to the size and angle. In the end when I modified mine I removed the slider and replaced with a rated wire rope cable which included crimped eye terminations on each end. I don't know what the compliance issues are with this system.

[blown]

Hmm any pictures of how you modified your seatbelt catches?

I do like the feel of the factory seats and wouldn't mind actually getting them recovered rather then spending upwards of 1k on just seats alone

Didn't touch the axles when I replaced the gearbox just cleaned them on the outside I will be upgrading everything for when I start the turbo engine. I'll also rebuild the gearbox fit the rev3 syncros and fit a aftermarket lsd too

[blown]

after work yesterday i got straight in to finally getting the cooling system finished (its been almost a month)

had to be the most frustrating part of my mr2 ive done as of yet the absolute worst this could be because my new radiator almost doesn't fit. even after some mild panel beating

i've actually had the radiator for months. i also have a modified after market AW11 muffler to go on eventually probably after certification as im pretty sure it'll be so loud and angry sounding

right so i had to cut my original radiator hoses as i just couldn't crack them off the stock radiator and still struggled removing the left overs. probably have never been off i tried making some new hoses from hacked up ones from work. almost worked probably could have left the ones i made on but last minute ordered some from supercheap online

next issue was i just assumed the stock fans would fit, the alloy rad has the same bolt pattern, it fooled me good. the new rad is quiet a bit longer so short of cutting and hacking the fans it was never going to fit. i went on trademe and found some reasonably cheap fans but they had less cfms the cheaper they got. and being a 3 ltr and wanting to go turbo later i decided to upgrade now with some electric fans 10" 1000cfm and surprisingly they were a good price. $50 per fan

silicone was my friend getting the hoses on and moved around while getting the radiator in really hope it i don't have to remove it any time soon

wink wink

forgot to take pictures of when i flushed and bled the cooling system pretty standard stuff, kept the water flowing till water went clear. car now finally has coolant in it car is still i guess foam is incorrect as its not foam but while running the car bubbles heaps from radiator cap i believe car is 100% bled and the bubbles don't stop. maybe blown Head gasket...? either way i'm not going to do anything about it. it doesn't overheat use water or and oil in water or vice versa and i have another engine anyway

so while i waited while flushing the system i decided to start fitting my new wing bought off trademe but i believe someone was trying to sell it on the club aswell? bomex replica. I LOVE this wing makes the 2 look like a pro stock dragster in my eyes anyway LOL its not bolted on as of yet as i plan to remove and aerial and bog over the whole in the bomex wing, i never listen to the radio anyway. i may discuss sanding and painting the boot and wing with dad today as hes got all the gear needed to do that, wont look the best by any means but the whole car black is better then what is currently

before

after

and now todays plan is to remove all 4 brakes and strip them so i can measure up and order replacement rebuild kits, less pistons basically a seal kit as the boots and the back are pretty shagged. i will also be giving them a good clean and then painting them red, continuing the black, red theme of the car i guess?


can finally see how i am making this car my own, love the feeling and its super rewarding, very glad i chose a mr2 for the journey

[GDII]

Looking good. What brand radiator was it?

Brake seals can be had from Toyota for under $120 for all four corners. Comes with everything you need except the pistons.

[Benckj]

+1^^ on Toyota brake caliber kits along with MC at same time. Might as well install the stainless brake lines and use some decent DOT 5.1 fluid.

Great progress report BTW, keep up the good work.