My 2nd Mr2

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JasonFriday13
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Re: My 2nd Mr2

Post by JasonFriday13 »

blown wrote:forgot to take pictures of when i flushed and bled the cooling system pretty standard stuff, kept the water flowing till water went clear. car now finally has coolant in it :mrgreen: car is still i guess foam is incorrect as its not foam but while running the car bubbles heaps from radiator cap i believe car is 100% bled and the bubbles don't stop. maybe blown Head gasket...? either way i'm not going to do anything about it. it doesn't overheat use water or and oil in water or vice versa and i have another engine anyway :wink:
Usually bubbles in the coolant means there is still some air in the system. I take it you used the two bleeder tubes up the front (one for the heater and one for the radiator)?

I usually do the bleed while the engine is warming up, and right near the end of the bleed I'm closing up the system so that it builds some pressure, and then opening up one of the bleed taps to push the last of the air out. Then I seal the system back up and let it build some pressure until it's up to operating temp, then check for leaks. Then I turn it off and leave it overnight, then the next morning I check and fill it up if it needs it. And that's it for my process. I've done this on my car twice, and I think another four times on club members cars as well (two were cambelts, the other two were engine swaps).
Jason Ross, current cars:
Project: 1990 SW20 GT, 1992+ brake swap, 1992+ subframe swap, 1996 Celica turbo engine swap, 1996 MR2 LSD gearbox swap, Caldina Turbo coil-on-plug ignition, Link G4 Storm, 161kw @ 10psi.
Daily: 2004 Toyota Vitz RS, 1.5L, 5sp
Tow rig: 2009 Camry, 2.4L, auto
Scrapped: 1989 SW20 GT, 1992 SW20 G-Limited, ex EssDub car, donor, 1997 Toyota Tercel 3dr hatch, front crash, 1990 SW20, G-Limited, ex EssDub car, roll crashed, donor
Sold: 1987 AW11 Supercharged, 1991 SW20 G-Limited, ex EssDub car

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blown
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Re: My 2nd Mr2

Post by blown »

JasonFriday13 wrote:
blown wrote:forgot to take pictures of when i flushed and bled the cooling system pretty standard stuff, kept the water flowing till water went clear. car now finally has coolant in it :mrgreen: car is still i guess foam is incorrect as its not foam but while running the car bubbles heaps from radiator cap i believe car is 100% bled and the bubbles don't stop. maybe blown Head gasket...? either way i'm not going to do anything about it. it doesn't overheat use water or and oil in water or vice versa and i have another engine anyway :wink:
Usually bubbles in the coolant means there is still some air in the system. I take it you used the two bleeder tubes up the front (one for the heater and one for the radiator)?

I usually do the bleed while the engine is warming up, and right near the end of the bleed I'm closing up the system so that it builds some pressure, and then opening up one of the bleed taps to push the last of the air out. Then I seal the system back up and let it build some pressure until it's up to operating temp, then check for leaks. Then I turn it off and leave it overnight, then the next morning I check and fill it up if it needs it. And that's it for my process. I've done this on my car twice, and I think another four times on club members cars as well (two were cambelts, the other two were engine swaps).
yeah i used the 2 bleeders, i can attach some clear hose to the heater bleeder but not the new rad as it has a nut on it and when its removed its like a fountain. had no more air comming out but yeah the next morning i was able to add a little more. even from cold to hot it pumps out so much bubbles its like sea foam
Anthony

1990 Mr2 sw20 V6 3VZ-FE swapped
Sold: 1989 Aw11 Hard top S/C Auto -> Manual conversion.

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Benckj
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Re: My 2nd Mr2

Post by Benckj »

even from cold to hot it pumps out so much bubbles its like sea foam
Ouch, that is not good. I'd do some further investigation as this isn't a normal response.
Jim Benck
90 rev 1 parts car
98 rev 5 GT- all the mods

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blown
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Re: My 2nd Mr2

Post by blown »

Benckj wrote:
even from cold to hot it pumps out so much bubbles its like sea foam
Ouch, that is not good. I'd do some further investigation as this isn't a normal response.
Guess I'll grab a compression tester. That'd probably be the easiest way to find out if one of the cylinders has turned into a bubble machine :shock:

Other then that car hasn't got oil in water or vice versa. Doesn't pump steam out of exhaust. However I guess i could drill a tiny hole in the muffler to see if that's where some water is.

Absolute worst case scenario I have to assemble my other motor I want to turbo and swap the motor out as I can use the one out of the car to make up turbo piping etc
Anthony

1990 Mr2 sw20 V6 3VZ-FE swapped
Sold: 1989 Aw11 Hard top S/C Auto -> Manual conversion.

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JasonFriday13
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Re: My 2nd Mr2

Post by JasonFriday13 »

Did you put the heater on hot when you were bleeding it?

Also, that's the worst radiator ever not having a bleed valve on it.
Jason Ross, current cars:
Project: 1990 SW20 GT, 1992+ brake swap, 1992+ subframe swap, 1996 Celica turbo engine swap, 1996 MR2 LSD gearbox swap, Caldina Turbo coil-on-plug ignition, Link G4 Storm, 161kw @ 10psi.
Daily: 2004 Toyota Vitz RS, 1.5L, 5sp
Tow rig: 2009 Camry, 2.4L, auto
Scrapped: 1989 SW20 GT, 1992 SW20 G-Limited, ex EssDub car, donor, 1997 Toyota Tercel 3dr hatch, front crash, 1990 SW20, G-Limited, ex EssDub car, roll crashed, donor
Sold: 1987 AW11 Supercharged, 1991 SW20 G-Limited, ex EssDub car

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GDII
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Re: My 2nd Mr2

Post by GDII »

It's a Mishimoto radiator. That is why you are having so many issues with it. First off they make the radiator to suit their own fans and they don't have a proper bleed valve on it. Sadly they seem to be one of the only manufactures to make an 'MR2' radiator but really it just looks like one. If I were you I'd figure out how to install a bleed valve with a tap that you can fit a tube to.
1990 SW20 MR2 G-Limited (GEN4 3SGTE Installed)
2000 AE111R Corolla Wagon NZ New Daily
1996 AE101R Corolla Sprint NZ New Selling Soon
1990 EP81 Starlet XL (Sold)
1990 EE90 Corolla XL (Sold)
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Benckj
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Re: My 2nd Mr2

Post by Benckj »

That's a shame they don't install a bleeder on radiator. This may very well be your problem so worth investigating. Wonder if you could use drill and tap a thread for a brass fitting into top of rad. How thick is the alloy?
Jim Benck
90 rev 1 parts car
98 rev 5 GT- all the mods

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GDII
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Re: My 2nd Mr2

Post by GDII »

Benckj wrote:That's a shame they don't install a bleeder on radiator. This may very well be your problem so worth investigating. Wonder if you could use drill and tap a thread for a brass fitting into top of rad. How thick is the alloy?
There is a bleeder but it's more of a cap so you can't control the flow or install the tube to see where the coolant level is.

Something like this needs to be added to the radiator where the capped hole is.
Image
1990 SW20 MR2 G-Limited (GEN4 3SGTE Installed)
2000 AE111R Corolla Wagon NZ New Daily
1996 AE101R Corolla Sprint NZ New Selling Soon
1990 EP81 Starlet XL (Sold)
1990 EE90 Corolla XL (Sold)
Instagram https://www.instagram.com/sw20glimited/

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blown
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Re: My 2nd Mr2

Post by blown »

the radiator is a copy as it was from ebay. Cheap as and came twisted. Nothing a block of wood and abit of twisting fixed


I can ram a large clear tube over the hole once the nut is removed but it would only pump coolant out as its not a valve? Even if it becomes the highest point?

Heater was on hot when I bled it
Anthony

1990 Mr2 sw20 V6 3VZ-FE swapped
Sold: 1989 Aw11 Hard top S/C Auto -> Manual conversion.

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blown
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Re: My 2nd Mr2

Post by blown »

Benckj wrote:That's a shame they don't install a bleeder on radiator. This may very well be your problem so worth investigating. Wonder if you could use drill and tap a thread for a brass fitting into top of rad. How thick is the alloy?
I'm not sure if I am confident in my ability in doing that as I really don't want to have to buy another if I mess it up... which I probably will :lol:
Anthony

1990 Mr2 sw20 V6 3VZ-FE swapped
Sold: 1989 Aw11 Hard top S/C Auto -> Manual conversion.

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GDII
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Re: My 2nd Mr2

Post by GDII »

When the car is cold and fully bled the coolant from the radiator should rise to the same level as the filler neck in the engine bay when a clear tube is fit on it. When it is warming up pressure will force coolant out once the thermostat is open and radiator has flow through it.

Using Jasons method to close off the valve to build some pressure then open it works well but just don't point it at your face. :lol: You really need a valve to bleed the system properly otherwise you don't know if there was any air left in the radiator.
1990 SW20 MR2 G-Limited (GEN4 3SGTE Installed)
2000 AE111R Corolla Wagon NZ New Daily
1996 AE101R Corolla Sprint NZ New Selling Soon
1990 EP81 Starlet XL (Sold)
1990 EE90 Corolla XL (Sold)
Instagram https://www.instagram.com/sw20glimited/

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blown
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Re: My 2nd Mr2

Post by blown »

I'll give that a shot. I remember something similar happening when I put the motor back in when I just put water in as I was waiting on doing the new radiator.

Still bubbled crazy then and that was with the original radiator using 2 clear pipes while bleeding it

Maybe I didn't bleed it correctly. It never got hot though so who knows
Anthony

1990 Mr2 sw20 V6 3VZ-FE swapped
Sold: 1989 Aw11 Hard top S/C Auto -> Manual conversion.

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JasonFriday13
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Re: My 2nd Mr2

Post by JasonFriday13 »

blown wrote:Maybe I didn't bleed it correctly. It never got hot though so who knows
Well that's the problem, the engine has to get hot enough to open the thermostat. This lets all the air out from behind it as well as flowing hot coolant to the front to help move the air bubbles up and out. If it's cold, then the coolant in the radiator stays idle and air pockets almost never bleed out properly. This basically gives a short window of a couple of minutes to bleed the system before it hits operating temp, after that there's nothing else you can do since all the coolant is up to temp and it's not expanding any more.
Jason Ross, current cars:
Project: 1990 SW20 GT, 1992+ brake swap, 1992+ subframe swap, 1996 Celica turbo engine swap, 1996 MR2 LSD gearbox swap, Caldina Turbo coil-on-plug ignition, Link G4 Storm, 161kw @ 10psi.
Daily: 2004 Toyota Vitz RS, 1.5L, 5sp
Tow rig: 2009 Camry, 2.4L, auto
Scrapped: 1989 SW20 GT, 1992 SW20 G-Limited, ex EssDub car, donor, 1997 Toyota Tercel 3dr hatch, front crash, 1990 SW20, G-Limited, ex EssDub car, roll crashed, donor
Sold: 1987 AW11 Supercharged, 1991 SW20 G-Limited, ex EssDub car

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blown
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Re: My 2nd Mr2

Post by blown »

JasonFriday13 wrote:
blown wrote:Maybe I didn't bleed it correctly. It never got hot though so who knows
Well that's the problem, the engine has to get hot enough to open the thermostat. This lets all the air out from behind it as well as flowing hot coolant to the front to help move the air bubbles up and out. If it's cold, then the coolant in the radiator stays idle and air pockets almost never bleed out properly. This basically gives a short window of a couple of minutes to bleed the system before it hits operating temp, after that there's nothing else you can do since all the coolant is up to temp and it's not expanding any more.
Err my bad I ment hot as in overheating motor definitely got hot I'm pretty sure it's all bled. I'm going to give it a compression test
Anthony

1990 Mr2 sw20 V6 3VZ-FE swapped
Sold: 1989 Aw11 Hard top S/C Auto -> Manual conversion.

lasersooby
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Re: My 2nd Mr2

Post by lasersooby »

Hi, found this on mr2.com, 11minute video on how to bleed your coolant.

http://www.mr2oc.com/201-how-videos/649 ... olant.html

Regards, Mo
2017 Toyota Aqua G's
Daily Drive: 2005 Honda CR-V Sport (Auto) - SOLD
When the Wife Allows: 2020 TRD RAV4 Limited Hybrid
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