NzLHD's 2ZZW10

[JasonFriday13]

Just a side note, this engine is a real pain to blurp. takes a good half hour or so and you still get little bubbles coming through even then.

Just another point to keep in mind, the radiator cap hose should be connected to the highest point on the hot side. This helps with bleeding. Half an hour to bleed sounds about right. I do mine while the engine is warming up, usually the heater is the first to be bled properly. The radiator takes longer because you have to wait for the thermostat to open, fill it up again, wait for the hot coolant to make it to the radiator, fill it up if it needs it, put the cap on and close the bleed valve and wait about a minute for it to build some pressure, open bleed valve and fill it up if it needs it. As soon as the coolant starts to expand out of the filler, that's your que to close the bleed valve and put the cap on. Then top up the overflow and from here you're all ready to go.

[NzLHD]

Update time

Ran into a little issue with the c56 throwing a bearing. That's alright just put in the 6 speed!

C60 into the AW proved a little challenging, mainly getting the shifter onto the other side. Ended up making a franken shifter by cutting up an old c52 slelctor shaft and welding it onto the c60 shaft then drilling a hole in the case. Actually turned out better then expected. Also managed to selvage the LSD from the c56 and put it in there with the c60 crown gear. The 6 speed is nice, still getting use to it but 6th is so nice to cruise in.

Also did some tidying up in the engine bay. Battery was taking up way too much valuable space. To get it out of the way I put it in the boot, right in the corner out of the way. Put a 100A breaker in it, saves disconnecting the batt all the time, can disconnect and reconnect with the push of a button and the flick of a switch. Removed the old overflow Reservoir and bought a shinny new one Got some heat wrap and wrapped the exhaust, Looks much nicer and don't know wtf happened but when it heated parts of it have gone white and some parts have stayed black ah well, doesn't look too bad actually Will try remember to get some photos in good light.

Wee bit more electrical tidy up then taking it to a shop for a pre-cert check

C60 selector on wrong side

Welded shaft

Shaft installed

New battery location

Space!

Overflow reservoir

Exhaust Wrap

[NzLHD]

Thought I might update this, cus stuff happening. Long story short Iv'e got to turbo the car in order to get a WOF. Not exactly the worse problem in the world, haha.

So.. Turbo time.

Picked up a TD05 twinscroll and rebuilt it. hoping that it will suit the engine.
Only planning to run 7-8psi on the stock engine, that should bring it up to somewhere around 230-240hp at the wheels.

Got some flanges from Sinco Customs and spent the last few days making and exhaust manifold and down-pipe. Exhaust/pipework is a lot harder than one expects, hats off the the guys that fab up the nice stainless manifolds.

IMG_20171231_133848 (Medium).jpg (186.2 KiB) Viewed 1930 times

IMG_20171231_133613 (Medium).jpg (119.71 KiB) Viewed 1930 times

IMG_20171231_133542 (Medium).jpg (135.48 KiB) Viewed 1930 times

Gunna paint the exhaust system with that VHT black, it lasts a year or so with a few coats. Stainless just too expensive.

Still heaps to do
*Oil feed will be from adapter plate and have to drill a drain in the sump.
*Picked up a Mazda 323 gtx intercooler that hopefully can use.
*Make flanges and intercooler piping + Maf and Bov
*Bigger injectors - got some 450cc mitsu but they are physically small and have to lower the fuel rail somehow.
and heaps more little things.

Any suggestions welcome too

[Benckj]

Looks like your gaining some ground. I’d tend to lean toward 550 or larger injectors so the duty cycle remains under 85% and allows some room to grow.

On the DP paint try using a high heat brush on product used for barbecue’s. It will last longer than the spray on rattle can plus insulate better.

[flying_wedge]

That's going to be a very warm boot

[chief1eye]

Looking good David. My engine starts getting assembled tomorrow by my engine builder, so hopefully in a couple of weeks I'll be running. So exciting times for us both. Like to learn more about you in board dash, be good to catch up soon.

[NzLHD]

Heaps happened since last post

I’d tend to lean toward 550 or larger injectors

Your right did end up selling those and getting 620cc's altho those stay nicely under 60% duty.

Replaced that dinky little intercooler with a water to air intercooler from a liberty RS. Ran 5/8 copper lines to the front water/Air heat exchanger. Installed the pump in the back on a timer so that its not extra to cranking current. It works really well for the mr2 type setup, where there is little airflow in the engine bay. The added weight is negligible compared to keep the engine happy with nice IAT's. Was seeing IAT's of ~25 degrees above ambient now only seeing 10 degrees max.

Also tidied up the engine bay and made up a filler neck. Before and after:

IMG_20180207_093121 (Medium).jpg (179.69 KiB) Viewed 1771 times

IMG_20180415_134043 (Medium).jpg (156.76 KiB) Viewed 1771 times

Looks a heck of a lot nicer now.

Also got her down to the dyno! which went good but with one hiccup. VVTL-i was not playing ball for some reason Whenever the tuner turned it on the car lost alot of power then tried to recover and wouldn't. My first thought was lift bolts? Haven't checked them yet but will do. Odd because I replaced them not long ago and it was working fine before the turbo. My next guess would be that it might be in the tune maybe? any of your guys thoughts appreciated

So she was just tuned on the low cam which is not ideal and fell off at 7700 rpm. she should be happy till 8500 at the very least with the big cam. Was only on waste gate pressure too at 6.5psi. Need to get a boost controller next and bump that up to around 8 with both of those downsides it actually did pretty well making around 225hp at the wheels, an absolute blast to drive just as is, even a bit scary with a second gear pull the rear starts to loosen a bit haha maybe bigger tyres on the back might be in order.

Dyno graph shows the lift problem. (Red = Pre-tune) (Blue = Post-tune) (Green = Lift activated)

1524194258635-2c54b953-4c1a-4095-aea5-658404e4942a_ (1) (Large).jpg (166.92 KiB) Viewed 1771 times

[mknz]

Hopefully you get that sorted and it's even more fun than now. It's looking really good

[chief1eye]

I'm looking at those torque numbers. They are impressive. How fast a car really goes on the road is a combination of Torque and Horsepower. This combination looks great. Must feel real peppy. Sounded good too. Heard you blasting up the road at Whakamaru!

[NzLHD]

Yeah Ross, really been enjoying the car now being able to rev her out

Pulled the rocker cover and checked the lift bolts today... Both good with little wear not that.

Put her back together and set the lift at 6k and went for a little blast. felt like the car did exactly the same as the dyno sheet.
Doing a bit of research some people had said there turbo lift was set at 3900, low ino but his graph seemed alright. So I tried that, really didn't like it. got to 3900 and bogged hard then surged for 1000 rpms then took off again.
So stuffing around I tried in between the two around 5200 and she was alot better. It still bogged a bit but it picked back up pretty quick. tried 5k and that seemed even better.
Interesting to say the least, maybe the tuner didn't try other rpm's for lift? hmm might get a second opinion on this from another company...
In the mean time might keep messing with the lift. And a bleed boost controller is on the way, decided I'm going for that 300whp

[GDII]

Wouldn't the best way to tune lift is to do some runs with the lift off all the way through the rev range then a few runs with it on all the way through the rev range. Then find the RPM where the power crosses between the two types of runs and switch it on there.

[chief1eye]

In the mean time might keep messing with the lift. And a bleed boost controller is on the way, decided I'm going for that 300whp

At 300hp you will be bringing the heat. Power to weight ratio will be up there.

[Malcolm]

What ECU are you running? Unless you have good closed-loop fuel control and a wideband oxygen sensor installed, changing the lift changeover point without also changing the fuel mapping is unlikely to be a good test, as you'll change the volumetric efficiency of the engine without having any way of accounting for it so could be running it very rich or lean. Ideally you would add the valve lift state as an extra axis on your fuel map and have it tuned on both settings.

A quick google found a thread in a Haltech forum, including this comment from someone at Haltech

The whole process went well - the only thing that you may trip up on is when you turn the high lift cam lobes on the disruption in airflow is quite dramatic and creates a misfire if not tuned properly around this point. I had to take out alot of fuel just at the point of changeover, then put it all back in quite quickly after - made good power gains though.

Is the ECU also controlling the valve timing, or is it locked into a single position?

[NzLHD]

ECU is a PowerFc and yes it controls the inlet cam timing. Yes i am keeping an eye on the afr's. I just enriched the tune when messing around.
Hmm that haltech post is interesting i might try leaning it when the change over occurs.

Wouldn't the best way to tune lift is to do some runs with the lift off all the way through the rev range then a few runs with it on all the way through the rev range. Then find the RPM where the power crosses between the two types of runs and switch it on there.

Yes, this is the way that the tuning write-up on the celica forum says to do it. I don't know if my tuner did it this way, altho i assume he did, as that is the way he said he did honda's.