NzLHD's 2ZZW10

[NzLHD]

Hey guys! going to do a little write-up to follow the progress of a 2zz swap into my 86 aw10. So feel free to throw some advise around and make a bit of a discusstion out of it.

So how many 2zz aw's is there in nz? is there just flying_wedges?

Never done a write-up so will see how this goes.

So the main idea of this swap was to have a all rounder AW. and the 2zz stuck out as a good candidate. just as light as the engine that's in there now with 3x the power, can't go wrong right? haha.

been gathering parts over the past couple of months. the gearbox is going to be a c56 /w lsd. yea I know its not ideal for the power band but I already had the box and its got an lsd. On the line of gear ratios, I've managed to get my hands on a JDM 00' celica ECU which supposedly will have the widest range of lift, supposedly hitting lift at 6200 rpm and rev limiting at 8400 rpm. Also pretty sure this is the one rated at 190HP. Now a 2zz loom is quite hard to come by it seems because the wreckers just cut them. Managed to pick up a 1zz loom instead and just added the 3 wires, 2 for the lift sol and one for the lift oil valve. Just sorting out the majority of the wiring while it is out of the car. As for the wiring it is pretty damn easy so far, there is a table that gives all the pinouts for the celica ECU (quick google search). So its just a case of stripping everything that's not needed and labeling the wires that are.

Engine looks in good nick, cams look nice apparently done less the 100,000k's which is good. Since this photo new lift bolts were put in, luckily the old ones were not broken. Also a new dipstick, keeping the 2zz guide tube for now if it becomes a pain will replace with the 1zz guide.

Here's a photo of how the serpentine belt was put on without the power-steering pump. Couldn't find a 1zz idler so had to modify a off the shelf part to act in its place. Then just measured and got a new belt. Not going to worry about the a/c at the moment but will get a compressor sometime down the track.

Just the progress on the harness, getting there!

ECU and part no. if anyone was interested.

Now something a bit different about this swap compared to others is that this chassis is a W10. That means it has the 1.5l carbbie which sucks not only because it makes little to no power but because it means the fuel tank doesn't have a fuel pump this has turned out to be a little head ache, because I may have bought a massively over kill fuel pump a bosh 044. Problem is it really wants a 1/2" at minimum inlet into the pump and apparently it doesn't like to suck fuel up hill. the tank at the moment only has a 1/4" feed and return line. So when the engines out the tanks going to have to come out too and a 1/2" line brazed in.

Pump and reg with the fittings, should work out fine.

This is the c56 with the selector shaft swapped. The selector swap wasn't too hard and there's a great write-up on the conversion. Still have to modify the bracket that holds the shifter cables. only problem is that I couldn't find a oil seal for the selector shaft the part no. is outdated and even Toyota couldn't find the new one if there even was one. so still have to find a way to seal the shaft.

So that's whats done so far, all going to plan should be dropping the engine in the next couple of weeks. still heaps to do tho. Exhaust is a 2.5" from that aw at the zebra wreckers, did aw's come with a 2.5" exhaust from factory? ill put a photo up soon, see what you guys think. Oh drive shafts are just n/a sw20 shafts. 3 of the mounts are on the gearbox and the top motor mount has to be modified with a plate. Also the aw10 doesn't have an ecu at all, which means no hole in the boot firewall, that's going to have to be cut.

Will hopefully keep this updated pretty regularly. Feel free to criticize and throw some suggestions this way, questions also. Would be nice to get some more info on the 2zz out there. So excited

[Statek]

That's awesome! I'll be following your build very closely, and will be very keen to see the car when its all going I'd like to eventually end up with a 2zz in my engine bay too.
Good luck!

[KWAFA]

Nice! Very cool project. Always wanted to put a 2zz in my ZZW... but that is a distant dream now.

[flying_wedge]

There is one other 2zz powered AW in NZ that I know of, doubt there would be many more given it is more of an enthusiasts sort of car these days, and swapping in a non standard motor is more of an enthusiasts sort of thing to do, so they'd likely have been around here or spotted by or heard about by someone in the club
Other is Brian Terry in his yellow/black rally AW - he has a thread around here somewhere too.

Not sure if you have heard of them, but Monkeywrench racing could be your downfall once you get used to the added power the stock 2zz has over a 3a/4a
I picked up my smaller diameter WP and Alt pulleys along with the power steer delete idler (amongst other things) from them - they make nice parts.

Good idea with the lift bolts while you have the chance and before they snap.

What are you planning for the drivers side engine mount?

[NzLHD]

So, started the swap last night. Not going too bad, tho run into a few snags already.

old engine dropped easy as. Here's how the car was lifted:

And the old engine out:

212mm clutch from the old engine, pretty much brand new from the manual conversion.

So the problems, Probably should have seen this one coming but the c50 clutch slave does not fit on the c56 so need to get one of those. All the engine mounts bolt straight up to the c56, just using the stock mounts but reinforcing them with polyurethane. will put some pic's up later of the mounts, they are not very pretty but they seem like a good medium between the stock and inserts.

The shifter mounting bracket on the gearbox will not bolt up either, so it has to be positioned in the right place then modified to mount to other places on the gearbox. I've got it tacked in position now and just have to find another place to mount it too. Will put some photos up when I've finished it. it's quite tricky.

moving on to the fuel tank now.

Thanks for the reply mark, Ah cool, will see if I can find it. Yes have heard of MWR and seen the little write-up they've done, also checked out their stock. Ah, the drivers side engine mount, was planning to make up and adapting plate and bolt the two together, bit like the MWR adapter plate.

[mickeyduck]

This is shaping up to be a very cool thread.

Regards the Bosch 044, you might want to see if you can mount it in tank? Though chances are it's a wee bit too fat...? Otherwise, add a non-return valve in somewhere near the tank so at least the pump doesn't empty itself every time you let the car sit for a week...

Or fit a standard AW pump in tank and use it as a lift pump?

Regards the gearbox bracket etc, maybe if you find a standard setup from an n.a. manual AW...?

[NzLHD]

Ok, didn't get as much done yesterday then I would have liked, mainly spent it on the fuel tank and cleaning the engine bay.

So Dropped the tank, looks as tho its just the same seal as a W11. So yea Charlie that is a good idea, using a standard pump as a lift pump. If any issues arise that will definitely be a good option.

Bent up some 1/2 copper and put it in place at the same length and positioning as the old 1/4 pipe. Seems to fit really well which was a surprise.

Now have the pump and regulator mounted, have tested the system without a output on the regulator and it is all holding pressure. Also the pump is not cavitating which is a bit of a surprise.

As for the shifter bracket on the gearbox it is a n.a manual one, came with the c50 when I bought the manual conversion kit. but it still needs modifying to fit the c56.

[Benckj]

Looks like your using the same regulator and gauge as I am. Seems to work very well even though a Tomie fake.

[NzLHD]

Looks like your using the same regulator and gauge as I am. Seems to work very well even though a Tomie fake.

Oh thanks, that's good

[NzLHD]

Right, Lots done today.

Ah first thing, the shifter bracket, modified and working well. Cut off the old top mounting point and bent up some steel to attach to a different point.

The fuel pump is mounted really strong, might look at getting a proper bracket for it later down the track. But for now it will do.

Engine and box already to go.

Engine went in with little trouble, despite the engine being bigger in size because there isn't the spaghetti of vacuum lines there seems like there is heaps more room in the engine bay. looks like it is meant to be there. No problems with the gearbox
either. all just bolted up and in.

now on to the interesting part, plan was to get it roughly in place then find a way to do this driver side mount. Noticed that two of the bolt holes lined up and went from there. Had to grind the mount a little bit just to make it sit flush. feels like it is super secure and I'm happy with how it all lines up. Also used some polyurethane sealant as a cheap way to add strength to the mounts without making them too hard with inserts. They may look like crap but they feel really solid, overall very happy with them.

[NzLHD]

Long time no post..... sorry to those that were following. Been a very busy few months with personal stuffs. But back into it....

So, She lives! and is awesome fun First opinion of driving it was that it is the perfect amount of power for the car. Its nice and peppy but definitely makes the power up over 5k revs. One thing to note is that it does not come out of lift in 1-2-3 with the c56. Can keep it in lift the whole time and your up to 100kmh at the end of second gear anyway.

As far as whats been done since the last post not really much actually, there was one major thing that was how I had mounted it like in previous photos will NOT work. The engine was to far over to the right, it had to come back over about 40mm otherwise the right hand drive shaft was too long and pushing the camber so far out that it wasn't even possible to get the camber bolt in. As far as the other things that have been done, only finishing off wiring, exhaust and coolant system.

The wiring, honestly if you have knowledge about basic electronics and how they work with the engine then the basic engine starting wiring is easy. A few things different with the aw10 rather then the 11 was that there was no EFI system at all so that had to have a fuse and relay wired in. Also the water temp sensor was an interesting one, the cluster wanted to see a resistive value and the signal form the ECU was a serial signal so there is no way, without converting it somehow, that using the ECU signal would work. So to get a temp reading on the dash I've used the old temp sensor and put it on the hot-out side of the engine, yea its not the block temp but is it something.

The exhaust was a bi**h and am really not happy with how it is. So the exhaust manifold looks like crap, my welds look ugly but are air tight, the temporary solution will be to wrap it in heat wrap so they are not seen, haha. So the manifold was modified from what looks to be the celica one. The angle of the manifold had to be modified by about 45° So cut weld, Cut weld.... From the manifold flange to the rest of the exhaust system was easy just a couple of 2.5" mandrill bends and the flange which bolted up to the resonator/muffler. Will be on the lookout for a SW turbo exhaust to fit up, like the sound and like the look.

The darn coolant system, haha. This is where the majority of the time has been spent. Couple of things I mucked up, the first being that there was a rust spot in the return line to the heater core that was not really enough to leak much coolant but when under high rpms was enough to suck air into the system which did the great job of displacing the coolant and thus making the engine overheat. There was so much head scratching and for a long time thought it was a blown/cracked head. So that problem is fixed at the moment by completely removing the heater core from the system. Then my second muck up being that the coolant filler port is on the wrong side of the system, its on the hot side when it should be on the cold side. So again, under high rpms it over pressures the cap and pushes coolant into the overflow. Not too bad as it sucks it up again when cooling down. Also have the thermostat out at the moment too as I thought it was that at some point.

So, yeah, car will always be a project but in the next couple of months looking to get the odds and sods finished so it can be taken for a certification and I can join in on some runs again!

Ill add more photos later but here is the messy engine bay at the moment:

[JasonFriday13]

Then my second muck up being that the coolant filler port is on the wrong side of the system, its on the hot side when it should be on the cold side. So again, under high rpms it over pressures the cap and pushes coolant into the overflow. Not too bad as it sucks it up again when cooling down.

I know why it over pressures the cap. It's because the cap is too close to the flow of coolant. On SW20 engines the cap is on the hot side, but it's got about 300mm of hose between the cap and the flow. Also, the cap should be on the hot side as that's the hottest part of the engine, so that when it overheats, the hot coolant is the first to escape thus dropping the temp more than cold coolant would (if the cap was on the cold side).

[GDII]

That might not be the case Jason. Lots of people in the USA weld a fitting directly to the coolant tree on SW20s but it is up higher at the highest point in the system and not directly in the flow.

[JasonFriday13]

Basically the point is that there should be some distance between the cap and the flow of the coolant, which GDII just confirmed. The material used to create the distance is actually irrelevant.

[NzLHD]

Thanks guys, your both right!

So there is around 400mm of radiator hose from the hot side of the engine to the cap. And now that the system is all connected, thermostat and heater lines are connected up. It is working perfectly, a little bit of over flow when the engine heats up and then it gets sucked back up when the engine cools. There is no excess overflow after hammering it. so all is good with the cooling system. Just a side note, this engine is a real pain to blurp. takes a good half hour or so and you still get little bubbles coming through even then.

Just going to continue tidying all the little things up on the car.... then ill post some photos.