1990 SW20 MR2 GT Restoration Project

[ToyMonsta]

Also getting 3 lights coming up on the dash now and then.
It appears to be BATTERY, CAT and TAIL LIGHT warning indicators i've looked it up and all the celica forums say its the alternator, I had the Battery and Charging Voltage tested this morning and it appears to be fine charging voltage 14.2 V and Idle 12.1, the belt has a very small squeek but barely noticable (not a squeel) I squirted some water on the ribbed side of the belt and the sqeeking stopped so i know its not the pullys, checked for alignment of pullys and they are all well alaigned. So I'm now stumpped at why its bringing up those lights on the dash.
The only other thing I noted was that the O2 Sensor wire has wire exposed (split insulator) Could this cause an issue?

I will get some pics asap.

[ToyMonsta]

New alternator has fixed the electrical issues I was having and all the old security system wiring was taken out.

But now I have heater problems... blocked heater core!

Had to slice the hose to get it off! So going to get new one today.

Heater core flushed (it was really bad!) and new hose fitted with new clamps. Test = OK Success!

[ToyMonsta]

Well have finally got around to getting at least this done in the last week....

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[GDII]

Will you get the surface machined after vapor blasting? Might not work so well with the clutch if you don't. Looks great though.

[ToyMonsta]

Will you get the surface machined after vapor blasting? Might not work so well with the clutch if you don't. Looks great though.

Yes once I get it back, I will be taking it into the clutch shop to get the surface machined and get the ballance checked.
When we inspected the clutch and flywheel when I took it ino the clutch shop we noticed that the clutch plate itself was convexed and was only grabbing on the outer half of the plate.
I had already purchased a new heavy clutch kit to replace it with from the same place.

[ToyMonsta]

I've now had the flywheel machined so that's all ready to go when need be.
Today I went and bought this....

I'm pretty sure this will be strong enough to hold the completed engine, the 3SGTE is approximately 200 Kg or just over so I'm pretty confident this will hold no problem.
Hope to get the short block mounted this afternoon

[ToyMonsta]

Hmmmm wish I'd had the time to get onto this sooner!
Rust has started to set into the block

I have given it a dose of ACF-50 to stop it from going any further, thank goodness it's getting a lot dryer now!

[ToyMonsta]

Ok so I went to bolt the block to the mount and realized none of the bolts I have are long enough to go all the way through the mounts and bolt to the block....sigh

[ToyMonsta]

Success!

[ToyMonsta]

Anyone here know of a good Engine assembly lube? Also need advice on what sort of torque wrench is the most accurate.
Also thinking of getting ARP main bolts and flywheel bolts.... would this be a good idea?
Any help on these things would be much appreciated

[GDII]

Anyone here know of a good Engine assembly lube? Also need advice on what sort of taque wrench is the most accurate.
Also thinking of getting ARP main bolts and flywheel bolts.... would this be a good idea?
Any help on these things would be much appreciated

Any assembly lube that stays on the parts and doesn't drain like oil will work.

Torque wrench, buy one that goes up to the range you need. However some bolts like the cam caps are very low torque and a bigger wrench won't have a low setting for them. I think 14f/lbs or is it Nm is for M6 into aluminium. But others like the hub nuts or crank pulley need a much much higher number. Check over the BGB for all the numbers you need. I have a 3/8" Teng Tools one that does most of what I need.
To get accurate readings the bolts need to be lubricated to take out binding from the equation. Or at least reduce it.

ARP main bolts and flywheel bolts would be good but are you adding lots of power? If not is it worth the extra price if they are more expensive than stock? Don't forget to put in a thread sealer to the flywheel bolts to stop oil coming out and this will also stop the bolts backing out.

Head studs vs bolt however can have an advantage. A bolt is a one use item and cheaper where a stud can be used over and over. But if you are not taking the head off all the time then the only other advantage to the stud is the way it clamps the head down. There is less stress on the block threads and the main force is on the nut giving you a better clamping force. But again, are you adding lots of power? If not the bolts are fine.

[ToyMonsta]

Any assembly lube that stays on the parts and doesn't drain like oil will work.

Torque wrench, buy one that goes up to the range you need. However some bolts like the cam caps are very low torque and a bigger wrench won't have a low setting for them. I think 14f/lbs or is it Nm is for M6 into aluminium. But others like the hub nuts or crank pulley need a much much higher number. Check over the BGB for all the numbers you need. I have a 3/8" Teng Tools one that does most of what I need.
To get accurate readings the bolts need to be lubricated to take out binding from the equation. Or at least reduce it.

ARP main bolts and flywheel bolts would be good but are you adding lots of power? If not is it worth the extra price if they are more expensive than stock? Don't forget to put in a thread sealer to the flywheel bolts to stop oil coming out and this will also stop the bolts backing out.

Head studs vs bolt however can have an advantage. A bolt is a one use item and cheaper where a stud can be used over and over. But if you are not taking the head off all the time then the only other advantage to the stud is the way it clamps the head down. There is less stress on the block threads and the main force is on the nut giving you a better clamping force. But again, are you adding lots of power? If not the bolts are fine.

Well the stock turbo was modified early last year to make more power so I'd like to take advantage of that, I am retaining the stock look as much as possible but will be making more power than the stock 1990 engine.
At this stage im not sure of the condition of the stock ECU as it was left in my leaking boot down in Timaru for months (it had corrosion on it when I finally got the car back) grrrr! it looked brand new before I took it down there... (lesson learned I guess) so on that note I will possibly be adding a Link ECU (plugin) to retain the stock ECU cover, the wireing will be getting done with new plugs with nice braiding over the stock wires with a quick disconnect at firewall.
Over all at this stage I'm looking at around 265 HP about 40 HP more than stock maybe more, dependant on the stock fuel system etc.

On that note.... I have the OEM Head Gasket, will that handle the power I mentioned or should I go with the Cometic http://www.nzperformance.co.nz/cometic- ... thick.html

Ok so STP Engine lube should be good then? I'm pretty sure the ARP bolts/studs (http://www.nzperformance.co.nz/engine-p ... d-kit.html - http://www.nzperformance.co.nz/engine-p ... d-kit.html) come with the installation grease to help with the torque down/binding you mentioned. The cams have already been Installed by the Engine builders so dont need to do that part with the torque wrench.
I'll have a look next weekend at some wrenches and review the BGB online for torque settings.

There is so much to do I'm starting to find it a little overwelming

[85AW20v]

....
Head studs vs bolt however can have an advantage. A bolt is a one use item and cheaper where a stud can be used over and over. But if you are not taking the head off all the time then the only other advantage to the stud is the way it clamps the head down. There is less stress on the block threads and the main force is on the nut giving you a better clamping force. But again, are you adding lots of power? If not the bolts are fine.

I'm not entirely sure head bolts are a one use item - for the 4-AGE anyway. The BGB has a length for them and if the bolts are not outside that spec - 90mm for the inlet and 108mm for the exhaust side of the head - then they can be reused. I've re-used mine a number of times without any issue. When going for extra power I can see the sense in going to studs, but for a standard rebuild there isn't any reason to change them.

[ToyMonsta]

I'm not entirely sure head bolts are a one use item - for the 4-AGE anyway. The BGB has a length for them and if the bolts are not outside that spec - 90mm for the inlet and 108mm for the exhaust side of the head - then they can be reused. I've re-used mine a number of times without any issue. When going for extra power I can see the sense in going to studs, but for a standard rebuild there isn't any reason to change them.

Well it looks like I have a fair amount of research to do then, If anyone want's to add to this, all information I will take into account.

Nice looking TWO you got there Simon, so many members have such good looking MR2's it's quite inspireing, mine is such a long way off from being on the road again, I'll probably shed a few tears of joy the first time she fires up

[ToyMonsta]

The other thing I've been pondering is getting a Catch Can for the massive amount of blowby my MR2 has had, the trouble I've had is finding something that looks relativly stock... then I came accross the Provent Series 100/150 Catch Cans....

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https://www.mann-hummel.com/fileadmin/u ... n_2013.pdf

Thought's?