If it was me doing an OEM look build I'd leave the OEM wiring if it was sound for looks but doing a rewire would be good future proofing as things are getting old. No need to have a quick disconnect at the fire wall. It's very easy to push the stock loom through the fire wall as it's short and easy to access in the boot. But up to you as we all have our own preferences.
OEM head gasket will handle that extra power but if you later want more power without having to open the engine then maybe the other one is better.
There is a bit to do but it's worth learning about and doing yourself.
Some head bolts are one use, others are not. If they are within spec then they can be used like you are doing. But how many road cars with low power have the head removed all the time like a race car?85AW20v wrote:GDII wrote: I'm not entirely sure head bolts are a one use item - for the 4-AGE anyway. The BGB has a length for them and if the bolts are not outside that spec - 90mm for the inlet and 108mm for the exhaust side of the head - then they can be reused. I've re-used mine a number of times without any issue. When going for extra power I can see the sense in going to studs, but for a standard rebuild there isn't any reason to change them.
Your new engine should have far less but it will still have some. That can looks good but you'd need somewhere for it to drain to? The GEN2 doesn't have anywhere for this except either custom or the turbo oil drain. I do like the idea of using one that looks more OEM rather than some shiny things that doesn't quite fit with your build. I'm keen to hear more about it. For some reason all the text in the PDF link is a bunch of numbers and symbols so I can't read any of it.ToyMonsta wrote:The other thing I've been pondering is getting a Catch Can for the massive amount of blowby my MR2 has had, the trouble I've had is finding something that looks relativly stock... then I came accross the Provent Series 100/150 Catch Cans.... https://www.mann-hummel.com/fileadmin/u ... n_2013.pdf
Thought's?
