First MR2 - Widebody 3VZ SW

[blown]

The entire tract from air filter to throttle body has been replaced.

I spent many weeks playing with the ACIS flap, different vacuum plumbing and the afm. In the end I picked up a cheap megasquirt with 3vz sw20 setup and got Jared to sort it out for me.

If you're interested, he's happy to answer any questions you have. Just flick him an email and go from there

I have talked to him in the past about it. Price was quite reasonable too. Tuning can come later gotta get the car legal first. I like the idea of losing the afm though.

[Gleshlich]

I guess it's a good time to update the thread.
Picked up some suede door cards
Handbrake cable swapped out and working properly now
Guards to be rolled
Picked up these seats. No clue what they are, but they do sport some Bride cog covers and came with Bride SW Rails

575799071.jpg (39.14 KiB) Viewed 3908 times

Have a Gen 3 15/16 brake booster, master cylinder and prop. valve.

Have moved back down to Christchurch for another year of Uni

While going through some Facebook pages I spotted something that resembled my car. I then asked the photographer and realised it was indeed my car.

[Gleshlich]

ZNOELLI Sp500 front pads and Akebono Rear pads installed. Full brake fluid flush with premium VW Dot 4. Couldn't get the brake lines to line up with the 15/16 master cylinder. Maybe the 7/8 cylinder is off another car and the lines adapted to fit.

Fixed the speedo cable. Is actually quite a luxury after not having it work for the better part of two months.

Picked up a set of standard factory suspension to see how it sits and rides. May consider ditching the coils for road use.

[GDII]

A few more upgrades. Good work. Was your mech speedo drive broken?

Do you have any photos of the master cylinders? Depending on ABS or non-ABS they will be different.

[Gleshlich]

Haven't updated this in a while. Not much has gone on in the form of upgrade as I'm saving up for something big.


Put the late model lights in today. Can't get my reverse lights to work but there is continuity from the switch to the rear. Have ordered a new switch

Installed the swaybar reinforcement plates from Phil

Fixed bad workmanship from the engine swap. Machined a new circlip groove and bearing spacer onto the axle

Really needs a wheel alignment and some better front tyres

[GDII]

The wiring for the late model cars is different. I assume you've rewired the reverse lights from the main lights to the centre panel?

[Gleshlich]

The wiring for the late model cars is different. I assume you've rewired the reverse lights from the main lights to the centre panel?

Yup. Done all the necessary wiring changes to make the reverse lights work. They never worked on the old lights either and I never bothered to fix them.
Pretty confident it's the gearbox switch that's not working

[Gleshlich]

Gave it a clean. First day that I've been free and not raining.

[Benckj]

Still looks awesum. Hope you get it back to its former glory.

[Gleshlich]

Reverse switch is fine. I suspect the spliced in wires are the wrong ones as there is not 12v difference between them. Anyone able to take a picture of their reverse switch wire colour and the part of the loom that it's in?

[GDII]

Reverse switch wiring is red with a black stripe and blue dot.
On the gearbox the wiring is red with a black strip and blue spot and black with yellow stripe.

So power comes from the 7.5A ECU-IG fuse in the engine bay fuse box then through the small white plug called EB1 pin 7 to the gearbox switch.

The red with black stripe wire goes from the gearbox switch to the fuse box through the engine loom. This is the long white plug called EA3 in pin 13. Then it goes into the body loom and heads through the rear fire wall on the far left. Then hooks into the rear lights wiring.

Gearbox switch plug

Fuse box plug

Rear light plug

Wiring diagram for your reference

Hopefully this helps you figure out where the break or incorrect wiring is.

[Gleshlich]

So my fuse box has had a bunch cut out for the v6 conversion
I'm thinking of connecting a 12V feed to one side of the reverse switch and running a wire off the other side to the positive wire on the reverse light loom. Can anyone see a problem with doing it this way?

[GDII]

So my fuse box has had a bunch cut out for the v6 conversion
I'm thinking of connecting a 12V feed to one side of the reverse switch and running a wire off the other side to the positive wire on the reverse light loom. Can anyone see a problem with doing it this way?

Find a black with yellow wire that is switched by the key. IE it's original feed from the 7.5A ECU-IG and to the switch. Then run the other wire to the red with black. Done.

[Gleshlich]

So my fuse box has had a bunch cut out for the v6 conversion
I'm thinking of connecting a 12V feed to one side of the reverse switch and running a wire off the other side to the positive wire on the reverse light loom. Can anyone see a problem with doing it this way?

Find a black with yellow wire that is switched by the key. IE it's original feed from the 7.5A ECU-IG and to the switch. Then run the other wire to the red with black. Done.

Tried that before. Should I be expecting a 12V difference across the two wires?

[GDII]

You should see ~12V from the fuse, through the switch all the way to the bulb plug in the boot.