Levi's 1996 GT-S

[4CylinderSpecial]

You might be interested I what I did for a low level of WI protection....

....All this sounds complicated & expensive but it isn't. Built the whole thing for under $70 and has worked without fail for several years. Although its not as good as using a flow switch these are generally expensive and problematic. It also does not give you enough warning so has to be plumbed into a control like your EBC.

Wish I could share pics and a diagram but nothing on file. Can knock up something if your interested.

I would love some pictures or a diagram if you have some spare time. I currently have the pump and pressure switch in the cubby behind the drivers seat. Ideally I want a neat and stealthy setup which isn't really noticable. Happy to use my other cubby behind passenger for a pressure tank but yeah just an idea of fittings etc would be awesome too.

[Benckj]

I'll see if I can find some pics or take some this weekend. Can easily get a fuel surge tank from Aliexpress and fit into cubby hole along with any pressure sensors & fittings.

Not sure if you run 50/50 meth/water cause if you do its really not a great idea to have this in your cabin. Couple of pics attached of the components I used including a filter as I didn't want to get and debris from tank into the nozzle.

[Benckj]

Ok here are a couple of pics from today and my set-up. Hopefully it’s self explanatory even though it’s still a bit of a mess. Just painted car before winter and have yet to detail out.

If you decide to do something similar I’d suggest getting a better accumulator tank as mine deformed when I applied 100+psi. This is the reason why the second high pressure switch was used to control max pressure from pump.

Let’s see how I get on with attaching pics using my phone. First pic is my EBC with the 2 LED’s mounted next to display.

[4CylinderSpecial]

Ok here are a couple of pics from today and my set-up. Hopefully it’s self explanatory even though it’s still a bit of a mess. Just painted car before winter and have yet to detail out.

If you decide to do something similar I’d suggest getting a better accumulator tank as mine deformed when I applied 100+psi. This is the reason why the second high pressure switch was used to control max pressure from pump.

Let’s see how I get on with attaching pics using my phone. First pic is my EBC with the 2 LED’s mounted next to display.

Thanks for posting that Jim. Yeah totally makes sense to me. I like the idea of the frunk mount for practicality but I like near-invisible installs so am either thinking of having the accumulator hidden in the boot in one of the deadspaces or in the 2nd cubby in cabin. Cabin idea might need some thinking as wouldn't like that to burst or leak pressurised fluid.

So I guess shopping list for this would be
* Solenoid triggered by boost switch
* Accumulator tank
* Pressure switch for accumulator
* Pressure gauge
* Fittings here and there

Not bad. Just need to look into pressure switches and map out my wiring.
Should be a fun exercise and ultimately will make the system far more responsive and fail-safe.

[Benckj]

Glad the pics helped. Apart from the pressure gauge all the goodies fit under the frunk lining. My pump feeds directly off the windshield washer reservoir but is also hidden under spare tyre.

One spot you could place accumulator is in the side pocket of boot. There is actually quite a bit of room behind the lining.

One of the downsides for using this set up as a fail-safe is that it won’t protect against a burst line of blocked nozzle. It also relies on you viewing an indicator fault light although this could be used as an input to EMS or EBC.

[4CylinderSpecial]

One spot you could place accumulator is in the side pocket of boot. There is actually quite a bit of room behind the lining.

One of the downsides for using this set up as a fail-safe is that it won’t protect against a burst line of blocked nozzle. It also relies on you viewing an indicator fault light although this could be used as an input to EMS or EBC.

I was thinking in the side pocket in boot actually. Just need to find a container which would be suitable for the shape. My plan is 100% to use my boost controller trigger wire with the pressure switch. If the tank isn't pressurised, then only low boost will be achievable.

For interests sake before I put the PFC back in, I gave the cover a nice clean and opened it up to have a look. Board looks good with no leaking caps. Confirmation that I have the 'Pro' version too, which includes a spark cut rev limit and launch control.

[4CylinderSpecial]

Here's my idea for how the new water injection system would function. I'm not an engineer by any means so probably not the best way to present wiring diagrams but you get the idea. If anyone has any ideas or comments, happy to hear

WI system [email protected] (301.49 KiB) Viewed 4147 times

[Benckj]

Yes, I understand the diagram and its basically how mine operates apart from low boost control. Just make sure that the pressure sensors sourced are adjustable as you will want to set up for your system using the manual gauge as the reference. I also find the gauge useful to quickly look at accumulator tank pressure under various states (ie car off, pre-primed, running hard, etc). I always check when I top up the water into reservoir before running engine and know system should be holding the 50psi otherwise there is a leak. Can see gauge with frunk cover installed while remainder is hidden.

[4CylinderSpecial]

Yes, I understand the diagram and its basically how mine operates apart from low boost control. Just make sure that the pressure sensors sourced are adjustable as you will want to set up for your system using the manual gauge as the reference. I also find the gauge useful to quickly look at accumulator tank pressure under various states (ie car off, pre-primed, running hard, etc). I always check when I top up the water into reservoir before running engine and know system should be holding the 50psi otherwise there is a leak. Can see gauge with frunk cover installed while remainder is hidden.

Totally will be using adjustable pressure switches and a gauge to test and tune everything. I will probably get around to doing this a bit later on this year, I think getting all the lines/fittings/tanks etc will take a while to do.

I have some fun bits planned like a J&S knock guard and potentially a datalogit coming soon to play around with, so am going to be occupied with that for a while. Also want to flush clutch fluid out and rebuild master and slave as I have full rebuild kits for both. Might be a job for this weekend!

[Benckj]

I'd be interested in how you get on with J&S Knock Guard as its something I'd like to do myself. I don't think any EMS has decent knock detection and the J&S seems to be the best aftermarket version.

[4CylinderSpecial]

I'd be interested in how you get on with J&S Knock Guard as its something I'd like to do myself. I don't think any EMS has decent knock detection and the J&S seems to be the best aftermarket version.

Totally will. I would like too as the Power FC does nothing at all for knock control so I consider it a must for If I do some street tuning myself. Will also help against bad gas and any other weird thing happening. From what i've been reading about it, it is very clever in it's monitoring and can also use the stock sensor!

[Benckj]

My Megasquirt EMS does knock control but its very crude and unreliable. I'm battling with phantom knock now which pulls back timing by 1-5deg in those zones where I'm trying to make power which is very unhelpful. It can be turned it off in program but unsure what is real and what is not.

After speaking with a local Tuner he configures all the EMS systems conservatively and then turns off knock control. I'm starting to come to the same conclusion.

[GDII]

Maybe running a more modern current day EMS is better? I get that playing with old tech is fun and interesting to learn about but for the sake of not destroying an expensive engine it seems odd to do so and remove protection from the equation.

Just my 2c on the matter. I know I haven't got into tuning and modding turbo engines myself as I have not had the means to be able to. So my comments are only good intentions rather than real world practice. :wink

[Benckj]

Maybe running a more modern current day EMS is better? I get that playing with old tech is fun and interesting to learn about but for the sake of not destroying an expensive engine it seems odd to do so and remove protection from the equation.

Just my 2c on the matter. I know I haven't got into tuning and modding turbo engines myself as I have not had the means to be able to. So my comments are only good intentions rather than real world practice. :wink

The Tuner I spoke with uses the latest & greatest EMS and to fair none of them are good with knock control. I think Motec is probably the best around in this department and is still not up to J&S standards.

Knock detection & control is a black art!

[GDII]

Maybe he is right. OK, I'm sure it's not that simple but this shows that it's not as difficult as it appears.