Supercharged 2GR SW20 Project

[GDII]

By running full synthetic oil it tends to not form any sludge internally and if any vapours escape through PCV they do not collect the same way as dinasour oil. I'd be tempted to keep it simple , run FS oil and not install a catch can unless you see evidence of oil inside intake pipe.

The way the PCV system works, you can't avoid oil vapour going into the intake unless you remove it with a filter system.

[Benckj]

That's true but synthetic oil seems to produce less vapour so it may not be an issue.

[GDII]

That's true but synthetic oil seems to produce less vapour so it may not be an issue.

Keyword is less, not none. Unless you vent the PCV system to atmosphere and not into the manifold or pre throttle plate, you can't avoid it.

[lasersooby]

That's true but synthetic oil seems to produce less vapour so it may not be an issue.

Thanks guys, great info.

What synthetic oil would you guys recommend for my application?

I am using fully synthetic Castrol Edge 5W-40 in my Subi and have had no issues with that. We had looked at Mobil 1 after the car had done 5,000kms but flagged the idea and went to Castrol.

I have heard good things about Penzzoil, but have never used it.

Suggestions, thoughts would be appreciated

[Benckj]

I run the Castrol Edge 5-40 as well in all my cars. Seems to work with no issues. Valvoline is also good but not on sale often.

[lasersooby]

I run the Castrol Edge 5-40 as well in all my cars. Seems to work with no issues. Valvoline is also good but not on sale often.

Thanks Jim, Castrol seems to be the way to go

[GDII]

Adding in the power wires to injectors and coils.

Overall view of the harness at this point.

Fusebox area and wires that go to the boot.

Setup in the engine bay on the test car.

The 2GRGE

Wiring in the boot area. Still plenty more wires to add in to make this thing run.

[GDII]

Adding in the intercooler/engine bay fan wiring involves cutting the tape along the long front bank wiring along side the alternator cable. Then taping it all back up. These are the blue wires.

Cleaning the plug.

I'm using some Hellermann Tyton Protect 250 High Temperature Cloth Tape to wrap the harness. This tape is very strong, you can't tare it by hand and it sticks very well. Has a good temperature rating and isn't fluffy like some fleece tapes. It is flexible but you need to work quite hard to get it to conform to where you want it to. A little bit of learning vs normal soft insulation tape. I like it though.
https://www.msel.co.nz/epages/motorspor ... PHELPRO250

[GDII]

It is known that the coil plug retainer clips fail due to heat. So some new ones were purchased. Part number is 90980-11885.

To swap them out you need a small flathead screwdriver or a pin removal tool.
Lever out the white retainer part and then you can access the pin retainer clips inside.

Then start swapping the pins one by one so you don't stuff it up.

All swapped.

Then you push the white retainer back in place.

[GDII]

Right at the end of Marcs video he explains about the 3 pin coolant temp sensor. The MR2 has a 2 pin for the ECU and a single pin for the gauge. We still need to have the gauge working and to make it real clean you can reduce the number of sensors by using the 3 pin sensor. This is a common sensor but here we have bought a new one and a new 3 pin plug to integrate the 2 pin from the 2GR ECU sensor and MR2 gauge.

Part number for the plug is 90980-11451 and the sensor is shown in a previous post by Mo when the parts came in a few pages back.

Here you can see the OEM 2GR plug and the wire for the gauge from the MR2 3SGTE harness.

The 2GR pins aren't quite suitable for the new plug so you might need to get some that do. I had a spare pair from my other harnesses to splice in.

Relocate the wiring to where the sensor is located. The wires are now inside the Y junction instead of floating around before the Y junction above the gearbox.

Stagger the joins in the splices so you don't end up making the wiring too big in one spot to cover with loom tube.

Then tape it up!

[GDII]

Because the donor car 3SGTE engine harness is from an 89-91 JDM Revision 1 car and we have an electronic speedo going in some modification to the engine harness is required. Luckily the older harness still has some for of speed signal wiring in it in the form of cruise control. They all have this 3 pin plug for a cruise control adapter as you could option the car with cruise control but the JDM cars very rarely have it all fitted. This is an advantage here as we need a speed signal to go from the gearbox to the gauge cluster area. The way Toyota made the speedo system work on the Rev1 was very crude but works. The gearbox has a gear system off the diff and spins a cable to spin the speedo gauge mechanicals. This in turn creates an electronic signal and is then sent right back to the ECU in the boot to run some systems. The signal also goes to the powersteering ECU for variable pump speed. Here is where I can reverse engineer the speed signal to goes backwards through the gauge to ECU wire. The new gearbox uses an electronic S54 sensor so I need to make the wires longer to reach the sensor location. It will then send the signal to the cruise control wiring I have spliced into and moved to the old body ECU plug (E6) so it sends the signal back up the wire to the gauge. Then I'll splice in the new gauge cluster wiring and it will make the new gauge work. This wire also goes to the 2GR ECU.

4 Pin 1 Power Pin 2 Ground Pin 3 Signal.jpg (512.73 KiB) Viewed 1220 times

5 Pins on the back.jpg (514.25 KiB) Viewed 1220 times

How to make wiring fearful!!

[GDII]

The about a month went by between then and this new work. Life gets busy when you have to build a fence to keep your little future mechanic in the yard.

Moving on. In Marcs video he has a Turbo MR2 so for the USA market it has the intercooler fan but for the NA MR2 for the USA there is no fan or control circuit so you have to add in a new control system. For the JDM cars and other markets the NA cars had the fan system. For the NA 2GRFE there is less heat so Marc uses the Turbo fan control relay to power up the AFR sensor power circuit instead of the fan. For this car as it is supercharged I am keeping the fan system intact for use in the future.

In the vehicle the 2GR comes from there is a relay called A/F Relay and a 20AMP fuse dedicated to this circuit. The relay is switched by the EFI Relay which on a 2GR is switched by the ECU MREL pin. On the MR2 the EFI relay is switched by the key. So as we are using the MR2 key and EFI relay system instead of the 2GR to get power to the +B and +B2 pins on the ECU as per the old MR2 ECU we have a spare control pin on the 2GR ECU, the MREL pin. In theory this pin directly controlled the A/F relay in the donor car so what we do is use it to directly control the new relay. Makes sense.

Next you need power to power the relay so it can power the sensors and we also need a ground for the coil side of the relay.
Pin 30 Power source of which is normally directly off the battery. I will be adding in a thick wire from the alternator charge cable in the fuse box to the relay. This wire is actually the starter wire from a previous GEN4 3SGTE swap I did as I remove the starter control wires and use the MR2 stuff instead.
Pin 87 goes to the existing power wire to the AFR sensors.
Pin 85 goes to an earth. I have a spare earth wire to the main engine start earth plug to use here.
Pin 86 goes to the MREL pin.
Check out the wiring diagram for your engine to find all this.

Relay can be found here. It's a 30AMP with integrated fuse holder. I'm swapping it to a 20AMP fuse as per the original circuit.
https://www.jaycar.co.nz/automotive-fus ... a/p/SY4077
Relay holder can be found here. It has 5 pins but we only need 4 so I removed the middle one.
https://www.jaycar.co.nz/horn-relay-base/p/SY4069

This relay has a bracket that I can use to mount to the ECU brackets Marc makes.

Next challenge is to get 85+ wires from the main ECU plug through the MR2 firewall grommet. No way will all fit through without some form of modification to the boot. Marc suggests you cut the boot in half to wrap it around and he is right, that's the easiest way to do it but I didn't want to do that. So I cut the small part of the boot out and threaded all the wires one by one through the boot. Sometimes it was in pairs as some twisted pair wires exist for CAN and sensors and at one point it was 8 wires in one go due to the shielded wires and earthing setup.

Wires to be feed through

Cut the boot! Only the small part inside the boot/trunk area needs done.

All these, need to go through.

Finally moved everything through. Getting tight! It wasn't too bad to do as the ECU plug has blanking plugs so you know where things came from.

You can see it all fits in the boot for the firewall.

Wires are now all sealed into the boot area. I'll tape up in the engine bay to make it seal better.

Crimping up the new relay.

[GDII]

Next step is now connect the dots in Marc's diagram.

Boost supervising again. He's not sure what is going on.

Then we connect wires from plug A55 to E8.
I started with the speedo of which you can see I also connected up the MR2 cruise control ECU wire. Not needed but this wire comes from the new speed sensor wiring anyway.

Power from A55 Pin 1 or 2 to +B or +B2 to E8 which will in turn connect to E6 Pin 12 and 13 which is +B and +B1 which is switched power to the ECU.

I'm not going to cover every pin as there are too many. Check out Marc's wiring diagram for the rest. Adjust pin number and colours as you go as they are not the same for the Aurion vs RAV4.

[lasersooby]

Extended wiring for the O2sensors from Paul Woods - Woodsport UK. Very well made product.

[lasersooby]

Water to Air Intercooler kit from Australia. This should be more than sufficient and was recommended by Travis from Elate Manufacturing who is building the plate intercooler for me: